A518 + 6.4 Hemi + 70’s Satellite

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  1. dickdale

    dickdale Well-Known Member

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    I’m in the process of installing an a518 46rh behind my 2013 6.4 Hemi into my 70’s Satellite and have to make a bracket for the transmission. I’ve used TTI bracket styl motor mounts with stock insulators.

    The engine and trans were installed into the car but I found out that the trans hit the crossmember and had to adjust the TTI motor mounts so the engine and trans came an inch forward. I also had to remove a vertical and horizontal rib from the trans.

    D076810A-E756-48B8-93F6-B5F352DDE876.jpeg 621082FE-D92F-42CF-931A-C0275043F091.jpeg 118D15EB-84E3-4CBA-BCD3-A5C3624EA881.jpeg

    Can somebody share a picture of this combo and show me how high the trans is in the tunnel?
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2019
  2. dickdale

    dickdale Well-Known Member

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    4EEFCE64-AEE8-4034-8EB0-58D330BF88CA.jpeg 914A908E-9192-4D90-A0A1-62819C5931A9.jpeg Yesterday I’ve measured about 4,5 inch/11cm from tunnel to output shaft center. The also is at a 3,4 degree angle.

    The angle seems to be just right?
     
  3. dickdale

    dickdale Well-Known Member

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    I’m using the Energy suspension insulator, model 31108G.

    D9AAEFB1-5E92-4AC7-9406-FBD0815A7C66.jpeg

    But I think it is very thick. With this thickness the crossmember will be low.
     
    Last edited: Oct 2, 2019
  4. dickdale

    dickdale Well-Known Member

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    Nobody? I’ve ordered the 31158G insulator as well. This is supposed to be 10mm smaller.
     
  5. Kern Dog

    Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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    In every instance of a 518 in a classic car, the torsion bar crossmember has to be cut back/removed and replaced/modified. Yours looks untouched. The trans is fatter there than a 727, I'm sure you have noticed. The trans needs to sit higher.
    The reason the crossmember is cut back is to get the proper angle for the output of the trans. Improper angles will result in strange vibrations and early U-Joint failure.
     
  6. 1 Wild R/T

    1 Wild R/T Well-Known Member

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    Sorry Greg I do not agree.... Back in 2000 I put a 518 in a Challenger, before I dropped the original trans out I took a angle measurement on the oil pan rail & measured the distance from the center of the output shaft to the floor of the vehicle, once I trimmed the webbing by the overdrive & a few tabs off the trans went right up to the original measurements but it actually touched the floorpan on the passenger side, I lower the trans about an inch, used a prybar with a flat spoon like end & put a little pressure on the floor, it moved easily & I got the clearance I needed... I put the trans back where it needed to be with the trans mount bolted in place & built a new trans crossmember out of cardboard... Took that & transferred everything to a sheet of 14 ga steel, cut it out, welded it up & bolted it in.... Obviously there's more to it but that Challenger has been driving around now for 19 years...
     
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    • Kern Dog

      Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      I should have been more specific...In regards to the 1970 and older B body cars. One guy with a '68 Charger got around it by using spacers between the K member and frame rails. I would never suggest that though.
      A local guy here gave me a 46RH that he had in his '70 Barracuda. I don't recall that he had fitment troubles but the trans did have some clearance cuts in the ribbing.
       
    • Kern Dog

      Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      518  9.jpg 518 10.jpg
       
    • 1 Wild R/T

      1 Wild R/T Well-Known Member

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      I'm gathering pieces to put a 500 behind my 383 in my Challenger....
      I've never tried putting a 518 or 500 in a B body but I might in the future..
       
    • Kern Dog

      Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      Too bad we didn't meet up earlier. I would have given you that 46RE if you wanted it. All it needed was a controller. The trans was clean...rebuilt, nice converter too. I thought about using it for my car but I have been tempted to go with the 5 speed Tremec !
       
    • 1 Wild R/T

      1 Wild R/T Well-Known Member

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      A 518 from the sprag forward is a 727 so the whole forward portion is exactly the same... The O/D unit is bulky but a good bit of that bulk it do to reinforcement webbing.... not all of it but by trimming the webbing there is an area that in the case of a E body happens to line up with the torsion bar crossmember that is small enough to fit up in the tunnel to stock height... It appears Dick has moved his engine & trans ahead 1" to get that thin spot to line up with the torsion bar crossmember on his B body... It might work fine...
       
    • 1 Wild R/T

      1 Wild R/T Well-Known Member

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      Why use an RE when an RH is so easy? And I'm going 500 cause I prefer the gear ratios.... I do appreciate the thought though...
       
    • Kern Dog

      Kern Dog FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      I was given the trans when he cleared out his garage.
      I can appreciate the better 2.74 gear of the 500. The Tremec I'm looking at uses a 2.87 1st and a .64 5th. Sure beats a 2.45 and a 1 to 1.
       
    • 1 Wild R/T

      1 Wild R/T Well-Known Member

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      5 Spd Tremec is a cool deal too, but $$$$... I can do all the fab work for cheap, I can rebuild a 500/518 in my sleep... I know exactly how I want to wire the control package... I figure I'll be in my swap about $500.... maybe a little more for fluid...
       
    • 1 Wild R/T

      1 Wild R/T Well-Known Member

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      Yup, well chosen gear ratios make a huge difference... And with the automatic a L/U convertor is almost like another gear..
       
    • dickdale

      dickdale Well-Known Member

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      Mine is untouched. I’ve talked to the guys from uscartools and they say the crossmember needs no modification. I don’t have any other combination to compare.
       
    • road chicken

      road chicken Active Member

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      I would be verifing the driveshaft angles as your fitting this up. If you can't get them within half a degree and the driveshaft going "down" to the rear end you'll be spending the $ for a CV joint driveshaft. Cutting structural crossmember is just not a good idea
       
    • 1 Wild R/T

      1 Wild R/T Well-Known Member

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      Funny thing, I was the one who told US Car Tool how I had done the conversion, sent them pictures & drawings. Prior to that they had been looking at cutting out the crossmember...
       
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