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Aeromotive Stealth 340 Phantom Fuel System For My 440ci Small Block

74Beeper

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Has anyone out there ever installed an Aeromotive Stealth 340 Phantom sumped electric fuel pump kit in their car? I just ordered my complete kit and was wondering if anyone has experience with them and could give some installation advise. It's pretty cool system that has gotten great reviews.

My 1974 Roadrunner, Edelbrock 750 dual quad, 440ci, 660hp small block needs a helluva lot more than the standard 3/8" line and an
Eddy mechanical fuel pump. At about 6000rpm in 3rd gear she starts running out of gas. (TKO600, 7000rpm shifts)

Below is a link to the kit

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/aei-17254


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I have just started the same installation with a MSD TBI unit. In my case, I elected to have a new aluminum tank made for various reasons. Ironically Aeromotive does not recommend that the pump be installed in a tank that already had fuel in it. "Proceed at your own risk" the instructions state (more or less). Another factor in purchasing a custom tank is that I couldn't find a steel one for my application and they cost too much to bother. When you install the pump make sure to us as fine a toothed saw as you can to avoid a hole larger than required. Aeromotive stated to me that upon installation the fuel lines should be 3/8's fuel line, 1/2 inch return. That's using one of their X1 regulators. You may not be running a return so you must be aware that the fuel in the supply line tends to heat up because of the temperature under the hood. This is lessened using a return line. The vent on the pump housing works in place of the tank vents if so desired but the vent tube must be 6 inches higher than the tank. I purchased a special check valve that allows venting but closes in the event of a roll-over.It runs right back to the fuel door and is concealed behind the door. Installation is pretty much straight forward, the instructions are excellent and they caution you on every aspect you might screw up.
Areomotive also recommends their 2 inch inline filter and after putting holes in the tank for mounting the reason is pretty obvious. I'm not going to waste good money on AN fittings rather I'll use industrial JIC - I bought everything I need in fittings for $20 new. That's less than 1 fitting price in AN and their out of sight anyway. Hose Tech, the company I purchased my plumbing from, supplied me with two coils of racing fuel line that were 25 feet long and told me to use what I needed and and return what's left. It's rated at 300 p.s.i., PTFE lined and abrasion resistant. Cost is $3.10 per foot and made by Gates. This is "push-lock" style line so I don't need all the extra connections and possible areas to leak. The secret in using any line of this type is that the hose must match the type of fitting which in my case is Parker's. Running it should be a breeze and I don't have to flare anything or buy flared fittings. Wiring the pump requires a separate circuit via relay and fuse rated at 20amp, relay 30amp. If you follow their instructions it's hard to go wrong and I'm sure you'll appreciate the engineering that's gone into their products.
 
Thanks for the detailed reply Yatzee.
Yeah, i did read that they don't recommend installing this in a tank that has had fuel in it already. I suppose it's due to vapors possibly exploding due to sparks that could get produced while drilling. I just installed this tank and it's still on it's first tank of gas and at $400 for a new tank, i will tank my chances. I will just steam out the tank really good before drilling. I know for a fact i will be steaming out the tank after drilling. No way will all the filings come out with just a vacuum. I hear ya on the JIC fittings. I thought about going that route too since i can snag what i need from work, but i'm going for that "pretty" look as well as function so i got all black anodized AN fittings. Cost a friggin fortune! To top it off, i had to buy quite a few extra fittings due to the fact that i'm in Russia working at the moment and don't have the car to look at to see exactly what i need. I ended up buying -8 stainless braided teflon lined hose for supply and return, then two -6's from the regulator to both carbs. It's nice that the regulator has dual outlets. I'm still kind of wondering about this vent line. Not sure if i will need it or not? Since i'm running a return line, i'm thinking it should be vented. Also i'm thinking the tank will have to be shimmed down from the trunk floor a bit due to the head of the pump not being flush to the tank.
 
x2 on the thanks Yatzee. I have the same unit but have not yet started the installation. Like 74Beeper I have a perfectly good tank that's been airing out for the past year so after taking precautions I will also be reusing it. The installation of the pump in tank seems straight forward, it's the running of the fuel lines that will take the most planning. I'm going to look into the JIC fittings 'cause like you, I'm more into function than form.

BTW Beeper, you have an awesome looking car.
 
Thanks CoronetDarter..... Good luck with your installation. I'll be sure to post an update after I'm all pressured up.
 
Here is my 340Lp/Hr setup with an aluminum cell in the trunk of my 67 Coronet feeding a QFT 950.

I have a diaphragm pressure transmitter that feeds fuel pressure on my dash. The AN-8 Feed and return lines are insulated from the front crossmember to the pressure regulator.

Aeromotive is top notch.

PS: I will be in Wahpeton next weekend Friday and Saturday, my son in moving into the dorms for the Fall semester at NDSCS.

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Thanks for the wiring diagram MT. The engine compartment insulation is another great idea. And that's one bad-*** interior, love the Grant steering wheel.
 
Funny, I have a 340 sitting here and I will be installing it in a 74 clonerunner in a week or so (440 big block). I am doing a twin turbo blow thru setup and the pump will be supplying a aeromotive 13204 regulator. I have already bought 1/2 inch nylon braided hose for supply and return, though have read -10an would be best and I may have problems because of my boost referenced fuel pressure. The guys that were having issues were using an aeromotive a1000 pump though and it moves much more fuel than this one, so I have hope it will work out. Kevin from csu recommended -10an lines and the a1000, but I opted for the 340 due to quiter in tank operation mostly,not making over 1000hp, and fuel baffle reasons. I am only shooting for 800hp tops anyway (prob run less anyway) I would have to cut the tank open more to put a fuel baffle in it for a different pump anyway. I was going to go with hard line, I would save money but this project is time consuming so I opted to spend a little more for convienence and save some time, well see soon if that works out though. Since i am using a carb i opted for a summit sum-230130, 40 micron metal screen filter.

Last time I cut a tank open I filled it with water and let it flow a bit. After some cutting the water level dropped due to the grinder cuts, then had a small fireball from the air pocket. If a guy dried out the tank first then filled it with water or inert gas I doubt there would be problems. A sharp hole saw should be less sparky than a cut off wheel.Funny, I thought This product was desinged for existing fuel tanks.

Is there not a larger flowing mechanical pump a guy could use if staying carbed and N/A? An electric pump is more time, expense, and noise, and less reliability. My last car had electric fuel pump problems (holley gear style, siezed, low hours, low pressure carb setup ). Only reason I am going this way is boost referenced fuel pressure. Perhaps guys here know of an mechanical higher flowing option? ( I am just assuming there is an option for that) Is the eddy fuel pump you are running the highest flowing mechanical you can get?

Awsome car by the way, that is a mean small block. Looks quite roomy under the hood! clean install. love the yellow!
 
I don't know about the pump, but you can purge the tank with inert gas.
You can put dry ice in the tank, the carbon dioxide will displace the oxygen and fuel vapor.
 
Sweet setup! I especially like the pressure transmitter. Where did you get it and how much you pay for it? NDSC is a great school. I almost went there when I was a young lad.

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Thanks furryfrog.... Sounds like you're gonna have a pretty stout 74. You're definitely gonna need something more than just a mechanical. The eddy pump was highest rated mech pump I could find. 3/8 inlet and outlet good for 600hp and I believe it was 110gph. If you're stuck on a mech pump, a friend of mine runs the same one but has a small high flow low pressure electric pump at the tank that is used as booster for the mech. Carter makes a nice one for under $100 from summit.

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Thanks furryfrog.... Sounds like you're gonna have a pretty stout 74. You're definitely gonna need something more than just a mechanical. The eddy pump was highest rated mech pump I could find. 3/8 inlet and outlet good for 600hp and I believe it was 110gph. If you're stuck on a mech pump, a friend of mine runs the same one but has a small high flow low pressure electric pump at the tank that is used as booster for the mech. Carter makes a nice one for under $100 from summit.
 
Awesome...... Thanks again. Looks Summit is getting some more of my money!
 
So, I've been busy getting the fuel system installed. So far the idea of using a 73 tank has been working great. I got the pump installed in the tank and all the fuel lines ran including getting regulator mounted. Next is find the best spot to mount the fuel filter. I'm thinking the rear shock crossmember for that. Then plumb the lines to the pump and finally the wiring. Pretty easy setup to install.

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I put my 10-micron filter where the stock fuel lines have the offset going from under the car to up the front frame rails. I just used two 90-degree AN fittings on the lines. Car looks great!
 
You will love that system, you'll have more juice than you know what to do with!... Watch out Fargo.

Great job.
 
I have the same set up, just make sure you hard pipe the lines in stainless under the car with chip resistant wire wounding. Any of the tubing benders and do this for you. It is easy to go ahead and use braided, but for a street car the hard tubing prefer stainless is the only way to go for safety. also no hose inside driver compartment. Also I would put a stainless sheet for fire wall behind rear seat with a engine oil pressure cut off switch and a rear collision switch.
 
I'm using a Walboro GLS392 pump on my current car (still in the building process), it's an inline pump mounted off and below my fuel cell.
 
Finally got the Aeromotive system fully installed. So far it works like a charm. Have not road tested yet but you can hear the fuel coursing through her veins. For anyone who's gonna do this install, I highly recommend watching as many YouTube videos on others who have installed this due to the Aeromotive instructions being pretty vague and not having many pictures. The videos really helped me do this install without question.
 
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