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After Sandblasting prep?

dodge68charger

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Im taking a vehicle to the sandblaster nest week. He said hes going to walnut it first then flash it in sand. Should i do any prep to the body before i put it in epoxy primer such as sand it down or degrease it. I find after the blasters the surface always feels rough, is that okay to lay epoxy on it like that. Thanks
 
Wipe down with wax and grease remover, then epoxy prime for protection.
 
A rough surface is the best thing in the world for adhesion. Wipe it down like mentioned but beware sandblasted surfaces tend to crab and hold lot's of link off of the rags. I also take a brush to it followed by a good blow off to remove as much of the fine dust as possible before wiping it down too.
 
What's the surface profile? If it's more gritty than a 1200 or 1000 grit surface, your Blaster did you are GREAT disservice on your vehicle. I blast one time, and only one time. My media is a mix of primarily Plastic T2 granuals, a bit of Walnut, and a dash of Powerblast. When I find rust, I dwell in that area a little longer to punch it down, but, not hitting it with dangerous media that creates a profile more coarse than the 1000-1200 grit. Pure plastic, and or Soda leaves no profile in the surface, some (ignorant types) think this is 'good', I say good for what, looking at? You'll have to scuff and sand it to make primes really stick good, so, for what it's worth....

And, if you have a grittier profile than the 1000-1200 any and all rags and wax remover will shred, basically making your day miserable. Rocker Panels hide lots of media. Sand blasters have no incentive to get those areas clean as Sand is cheap. I on the other hand have every incentive to get my Plastic out of your Rockers, because Plastic is $1.85 a lb if you went in and bought it at a supply store in bulk. I blast about 1000-1800lbs over a typical B Body shell, recover almost all of it except maybe 1/4 full 5 gallon bucket.
 
Donny, what do think about the dustless blasting systems that uses water and media? Anything to be concerned about compared to regular media blasting?

Joe


What's the surface profile? If it's more gritty than a 1200 or 1000 grit surface, your Blaster did you are GREAT disservice on your vehicle. I blast one time, and only one time. My media is a mix of primarily Plastic T2 granuals, a bit of Walnut, and a dash of Powerblast. When I find rust, I dwell in that area a little longer to punch it down, but, not hitting it with dangerous media that creates a profile more coarse than the 1000-1200 grit. Pure plastic, and or Soda leaves no profile in the surface, some (ignorant types) think this is 'good', I say good for what, looking at? You'll have to scuff and sand it to make primes really stick good, so, for what it's worth....

And, if you have a grittier profile than the 1000-1200 any and all rags and wax remover will shred, basically making your day miserable. Rocker Panels hide lots of media. Sand blasters have no incentive to get those areas clean as Sand is cheap. I on the other hand have every incentive to get my Plastic out of your Rockers, because Plastic is $1.85 a lb if you went in and bought it at a supply store in bulk. I blast about 1000-1800lbs over a typical B Body shell, recover almost all of it except maybe 1/4 full 5 gallon bucket.
 
'Dustless' is sort of a misnomer. There always is dust with media blasting. They just drown in it water, and leaves a tremendous amount of sludge on the ground, a collosal mess for sure. Water is over 7lbs a gallon. The biggest issue today about media blasting is how guys say heat warps panels. This is not correct if you use Plastic like I do. The biggest way to damage flat panels is impact and deflecting of the metal from too heavy a media, and, to move water through the hose you need a lot of cfm and psi, so, how's the 69 roadrunner Hood now? It's toast, it may be clean toast though!
 
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