After you set the fuel regulator to correct psi do you need to redo the air/fuel mixture?

[Myasylum]

I just installed a fuel regulator for 6psi. (Eldebrock AVS 800) I thought it would improve the car stalling on me since it was at 7psi (recommended no higher than 6.5psi) It still stalls. Should I then reset the air/fuel mixture or does that stay the same?

 

[dadsbee]

All the fuel pressure regulator is for is to keep too high a pressure from blowing the needle/seat open and over filling the bowls.

 

[Myasylum]

maybe I should set it at 5 and see how it goes?

 

[Beekeeper]

maybe I should set it at 5 and see how it goes?

Yep 5 psi would be best also may need to check your float levels.

 

[GTX JOHN]

Set the floats = It is simple on that carb and
inspect the needles and seats while top is off.

 

[toolmanmike]

maybe I should set it at 5 and see how it goes?

Or 4 and yes, re adjust the idle mixture. It all depends how high it was before the regulator and what was done to it then.

 

[Geoff 2]

[1] These carbs will withstand 10 psi of pressure, despite what the instructions say. The Edel/ Careter 4bbl carbs are one of the most tolerant designs of high fuel pressure because of the large amount of leverage the float has on the n/seat.
[2] Changing fuel pressure changes the float level on ALL carbs.
[3] More fuel pressure, fuel level increases. And vice versa.
[4] Depending on the carb design will affect how much the A/F ratio changes & if a jet change is needed.
[5] Needle & seat size, along with f/pressure also affects fuel level.
[6] According to D. Vizard in his Holley book, a 0.100" change in fuel level is about one main jet size.

 

[Geoff 2]

Under what conditions does it stall? More info needed.

 

[Myasylum]

When I put it in drive or reverse it stalls. I have to use one foot on the brake and one on the gas to keep it running. Once I'm driving it's fine. Then I come to a stop sign it stalls again. Not all the time, but quite often. Yesterday I guy pulls over and says, "Hey Nice car!" Then my car died. Quite embarrassing.

One of the things I read was to use a fuel regulator. It was a 7 psi which is supposed to be high, so it made sense. So I lowered it to 6, and same issue. So I'll try 5 later today. However I did try to get it lower than 6 and it seemed to start to die so I left it at 6psi. I didn't play with it long though, I could have reset the idle. It was getting late and my neighbors I think hate me.

 

[khryslerkid]

Might be chasing your tail. What engine are you working with (specs)?

What's your timing setting?

 

[Runcharger]

I would set it to 5. Float level shouldn't change, set it to factory specs. Set idle mixture after that. Could be a timing issue, does the car have a stock camshaft? Did this situation just develop after switching carbs?
You might try watching the timing with a light while someone holds the brake and puts it in drive from neutral.

 

[Myasylum]

its a 400 with a

Lunati 10230703​

This is also a brand new carburetor. Timing is set around 15 degrees.

Checked for vacuum leaks, I see nothing.

 

[khryslerkid]

its a 400 with a

Lunati 10230703​

This is also a brand new carburetor. Timing is set around 15 degrees.

Checked for vacuum leaks, I see nothing.

Have you checked how much vacuum it's making?

 

[Don Frelier]

I have a Lunati 702 in my 383 and it likes 25-30 degrees at idle.
Mine is close to 10:1 compression.

I would try advancing the initial. Then get it warm and adjust the idle speed and mixture when warm/hot.
I think I wrote this already but you have a big cam in a low compression motor with a stock converter stall speed correct?
This may be a tough one to get consistently useable.

 

[Myasylum]

Yes, This wasn't meant to cross post, but it just kind of ended up that way.

The cam I didn't think was all that big. but these have Edelbrock RPM heads so the compression should be much better, and I'm installing at 2400-2800 Stall hopefully this weekend with a rebuilt transmission.

I kind of hoped to get this bug worked out first.

Vacuum is just barely in the green. Can't get it much past that.

 

[khryslerkid]

The timing has to be right before the carb tuning. They kind of work hand in hand. Throw as much timing in it as it will take without pinging. You'll be surprised as what it likes.

 

[Myasylum]

I try to time it until the engine starts funny... like when the battery get low. Then I back it off a tad. Unless it's ok to start that way? Then I'll just keep going.

 

[BSB67]

Checked for vacuum leaks, I see nothing.

How do you see a vacuum leak?

 

[BSB67]

I try to time it until the engine starts funny... like when the battery get low. Then I back it off a tad.

Wait, really?

 

[Myasylum]

Did a smoke test. there was no leaks.

I advance it till it pings, or the car starts cranking hard.