Air Grabber Problem

[clazar]

I just got my rebuilt 440+6 back. Completely stock. Now my air grabber doesn't work. Checked all lines & they are on the correct places. I have factory power frt discs. So I checked the dual nipple where it comes out of the back of the intake. No vacuum. I took both the grabber line & booster line off to see if it was plugged. Nothing plugged. Could the nipple have a leak & not pull any vacuum ??

 

[droptop]

Put a vacuum gauge on it and see how much vacuum you have at idle. My next call would be to your engine builder.

 

[pnora]

I just got my rebuilt 440+6 back. Completely stock. Now my air grabber doesn't work. Checked all lines & they are on the correct places. I have factory power frt discs. So I checked the dual nipple where it comes out of the back of the intake. No vacuum. I took both the grabber line & booster line off to see if it was plugged. Nothing plugged. Could the nipple have a leak & not pull any vacuum ??

Pull it off and check it over. Run a small wire through the hole.

 

[clazar]

Took the nipple off the manifold. Ran some wire & forced some air thru it. Put it on & still grabber doesn't work. But now I have some vacuum thru it. Pulled the vacuum line off the canister to confirm vacuum. Does the system need to purge any air in it or should it work right away after flipping the switch.

 

[Thrashingcows]

Is it a stock cam in your new motor? Could be you aren't building enough vacuum, should still work but might take several minutes to fill the vacuum reservoir canister and system.

 

[clazar]

Stock cam. I was wondering if it needed to run a while to build enough vacuum.

 

[droptop]

Put a gauge on it. A stock engine should be around 15” of vacuum at idle.

 

[Grabbergreendream]

Is the manifold sealed correctly? Something isn't right & a vacuum reading would definitely help but I truly believe there's a leak within the topend of the engine by what your describing.

 

[440+6]

Make sure the solenoid under the dash is energized.

Scoop should start to come up pretty much instantly.

 

[clazar]

Checked the vacuum today, it was 13" @ idle. If 13" is sufficient, could the lines be hooked up wrong. Attached is a pic of the lines to the actuator.

 

[pnora]

Checked the vacuum today, it was 13" @ idle. If 13" is sufficient, could the lines be hooked up wrong. Attached is a pic of the lines to the actuator.

View attachment 1204918

See if you have vacuum at either line.

 

[RJRENTON]

Checked the vacuum today, it was 13" @ idle. If 13" is sufficient, could the lines be hooked up wrong. Attached is a pic of the lines to the actuator.

View attachment 1204918

The vacuum line that OPENS the air grabber door is attached to the ROD END fitting of the actuator. The vacuum source FROM the manifold source gets connected to the inlet of the vacuum resivoire's check valve. The OUTLET hose FROM the vacuum resivoire's check valve, gets connected TO the dash mounted open /close VALVE's port with the small built in restriction on the inlet nipple. The purpose is to delay the opening of the air grabber door for approximately 3-4 seconds to prevent a "fluttering" (rapid open-close action) as a result of marginal vacuum signal due to rapid acceleration operation. The restriction also allows for slow closing the the air grabber door on shut down or when the dash mounted vacuum VALVE is set to close.
BOB RENTON

 

[clazar]

Thank You Bob. Did you live in Monroeville at one time ??

 

[RJRENTON]

Thank You Bob. Did you live in Monroeville at one time ??

YES I DID ..... I moved to Decatur Illinois in Fall of 2013 ....I'm sending you a PM
BOB RENTON

 

[clazar]

It's alive. A leaking switch was the problem. Thanks all

 

[streetmachine]

It's alive. A leaking switch was the problem. Thanks all

Thank you for sharing. Glad to hear you got it fixed.

 

[clazar]

When my switch handle is up the grabber door is down and vice versa. Is that the way its' supposed to be.

 

[RJRENTON]

When my switch handle is up the grabber door is down and vice versa. Is that the way its' supposed to be.

NO.....UP POSITION OF THE AIR GRABBER DASH VALVE IS OPEN FOR THE AIR GRABBER FOOR. Conversely, down is closed. It sounds as if the valve is up side down OR the two hose connections on the valve are reversed....NOT THE VACUUM SUPPLY HOSE... Just my opinion of course
BOB RENTON

 

[clazar]

NO.....UP POSITION OF THE AIR GRABBER DASH VALVE IS OPEN FOR THE AIR GRABBER FOOR. Conversely, down is closed. It sounds as if the valve is up side down OR the two hose connections on the valve are reversed....NOT THE VACUUM SUPPLY HOSE... Just my opinion of course
BOB RENTON

Thanks Bob. The switch can only mount one way. The holes that attach it to the dash metal line up in only that position. I tried turning the switch 180 degrees & the holes won't line up. Would the vacuum lines be switched ?

 

[RJRENTON]

Thanks Bob. The switch can only mount one way. The holes that attach it to the dash metal line up in only that position. I tried turning the switch 180 degrees & the holes won't line up. Would the vacuum lines be switched ?

On the back of the valve, there are three (3) nipples. The single nipple should have a small restriction molded in; the other two nipples are the outlet ports of the valve. Try reversing these two outlet port hoses. Do you have the electric solenoid valve connected to the hoses and operational (energized with ignition on)? This solenoid dumps the vacuum on shut down, allowing the air grabber door to close.
BOB RENTON