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ALTERNATOR- Electronic Ign. 2 Flield Wire

RM23M9A

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Where and what, need a 2 groove pulley, 2 field wire, Alternator for 69-1/2 Bee, trying to avoid chrome, GM or anything NOT OEM looking.. For some reason, new Year One harness BLUE wire wanted to melt with this one from E Bay.. Only 11.4 V output..
:BangHead:
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:mad:
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The two field wires must be on the correct field. They can be reversed but if you do you will melt the wire or take out the alternator. Ask me how I know.
 
I have to disagree, swapping the field wires should have no effect, if is does there is something going on inside the alternator. Put it this way, if the field connections had to be a specific way Ma Mopar would have labeled them or made a connector that only allowed them to be connected in one way.
 
That's the info I got from a professional rebuild shop. I could be wrong I don't know. Wouldn't be the first time. Just trying to help.
 
Where and what, need a 2 groove pulley, 2 field wire, Alternator for 69-1/2 Bee, trying to avoid chrome, GM or anything NOT OEM looking.. For some reason, new Year One harness BLUE wire wanted to melt with this one from E Bay.. Only 11.4 V output..

I can't find a question in any of that so I don't know what you're looking for? I hope this helps? Good Luck

charging system overview (imperialclub.com)
 
I'd say the rebuilder grounded out one of those field terminals. Put an ohm meter on the case and to each field tab..
 
I have to disagree, swapping the field wires should have no effect, if is does there is something going on inside the alternator. Put it this way, if the field connections had to be a specific way Ma Mopar would have labeled them or made a connector that only allowed them to be connected in one way.

IMO...
Your premise is correct....it makes no difference if the field wires were reversed. If one of the brush holders were grounded or if the rotor's slip rings were grounded or if the rotor windings were grounded internally, then the regulator or its wiring may be damaged. Most "repair shops" assume that the client (you), know nothing and will not provide proof of the tests and documented values they conducted and just say anything is ok, or not.
BTW....the original OP's alternator is a square back design circa 1972 origin. The drive sheave is pressed on the shaft and were available in several different dimensions and belt configurations.
BOB RENTON
 
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The two field wires must be on the correct field. They can be reversed but if you do you will melt the wire or take out the alternator. Ask me how I know.
I DO beileive this is most likely the prob.. I can hook my DVOM up to BATT post on a (small fire) burnt one, and on DC Volts, get 0.034, on this new or reman one? 0.00000

The whole "Field" terminal thing has always evaded me. Guess today I learn a bit more.
Crazy that O'Reilley has a double pulley/2 Field 55 amp unit in stock! ($70.00) I'm going to have them test this "Reman" one while there...
Guessing, since no manual that I have covering Electronic Ign per 1969 doesnt cover a 2 wire unit. Assuming blue field goes to COIL or BALLAST?
Green goes to Regulator?
 
Like I said WM, put an OHM meter from case to field connection tab. If you get ZERO ohms then the connection tab is grounded to the case. If you actually get resistance then that tab is fine. I'm thinking you ordered a '69 and the second tab (that shouldn't be generally used on a '69) is grounded to case.
 
Like I said WM, put an OHM meter from case to field connection tab. If you get ZERO ohms then the connection tab is grounded to the case. If you actually get resistance then that tab is fine. I'm thinking you ordered a '69 and the second tab (that shouldn't be generally used on a '69) is grounded to case.
Yep, had it tested, FAIL on both tests.. Bought a newer Reman one...Uugh (built in CHINA?!)
Last one did indeed showed O.L on Voltmeter.. Installed newer one, (lol) damn fusible link began to melt.. I quit
 
Maybe the difference is the 72 alternator wiring could be different with electronics voltage regulator
 
Like I said WM, put an OHM meter from case to field connection tab. If you get ZERO ohms then the connection tab is grounded to the case. If you actually get resistance then that tab is fine. I'm thinking you ordered a '69 and the second tab (that shouldn't be generally used on a '69) is grounded to case.

Ok, so here's what I'm getting..
What is typically (Was on old alt) Green wire's tab+case=000.0/000.1 ohm
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Where Blue wire went on old setup?
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16.2 ohms...
I studied these at UTI somehow passed A6 A.S.E. lol
Been a few years, plus we focused on 99 & up vehicles..
Went got one from O'reilleys.
Got it bolted up, when I hooked NEG batt cable?
SPARK city! And nearly melted fusible link. Now, battery is Kaput. This is why I bought 3 harnesses from Year One..lol
THAT much experience I do have.. I'm taking Wuhan Reman Alt back, to buy new battery I guess.. ANY other tests or Diag. you can think of GREATLY appreciated!
Thanks!!
 
What I really dont need, a 4 wire? This is what Oreilley sells in a 55 amp.
Wondering IF I can use a Year One Alt? Afraid of 90 amps. Just rewired entire dash...
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So someone forgot the insulators in your first picture as that lug is grounded to the case and should be isolated for your two field wire circuit. Still not sure why you have a two field alternator on a '69.. unless the 1/2 were granted the upcoming '70 duals.
 
So someone forgot the insulators in your first picture as that lug is grounded to the case and should be isolated for your two field wire circuit. Still not sure why you have a two field alternator on a '69.. unless the 1/2 were granted the upcoming '70 duals.

When I inherited the car my ol man installed Electronic Ignition on it. Its always since had the Green & Blue wires & Batt terminal setup. When I got it, it needed wiring bad. I cleaned it all up installed a Year One 440+6 Elec. Ign. Harness few years ago, ran just like it always had. Even Ammeter worked! At same time I R&R'd the dash harness, finally had all the lights working, everythig BUT fuel guage to this day. Its always just been topped off with 104 octane or race gas and ran 1/4 mi at a time. Last summer I drove it pretty hard, (Buddy of mine has a 68 RS/SS 396 Convert he THOUGHT was "Badsss" .. I cruised it around quite a bit, THEN it started having carb issues, and caught fire when a fuel line broke in August. Finally have 3 new 2 barrels, fire destroyed the newer harness I put in it, being a Hagerty Ins claim, I dont wanna do too much to it while waiting on shop to get it in. So I have to save all of the burnt parts..
It may NOT need one or both of the 2 wires to the 2 "Field" marked tabs, I assume, since the harnesses come with both Green & Blue leads? Ya know? However, Its always had that setup since my father removed the points out of it. Hmmm Go back to points? Just frustrating that I cant figure out what changed? I do remember when I replaced Eng. harness last week, I apparently had failed to unhook battery cables while installing it, DID get a short to ground as the Alternator Main feed touched a chromed valve cover.. Could be I fried the V.Regulator? Throwing parts at it, not a good way to repair things.. There's always been someone here who reminds me of "Why I didnt I think of that"... To be continued.
 
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Like I said WM, put an OHM meter from case to field connection tab. If you get ZERO ohms then the connection tab is grounded to the case. If you actually get resistance then that tab is fine. I'm thinking you ordered a '69 and the second tab (that shouldn't be generally used on a '69) is grounded to case.
Yeah, I was checking continuity here & there, looking for a possibe short? Noticed that the BLUE spade tab DID have continuity.. (0 resistance)... The cases on 2 vastly different alternators DO have same casting numbers & configuration, except for the O'reiley one with the GROUND post at the top... Kinda weird
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.
 
So someone forgot the insulators in your first picture as that lug is grounded to the case and should be isolated for your two field wire circuit. Still not sure why you have a two field alternator on a '69.. unless the 1/2 were granted the upcoming '70 duals.
..So this Lug with 000.1 ohm is supposed to be basically NOT used? Makes sense, since that's the one that began to melt the blue wire, this "Other Wire" IS HOT.
Not supported by any 69-70 schematics
 
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If you had a single green field wire, as you should on a '69, then the one lug grounded out would work just fine WITH THE GREEN ATTACHED TO THE OTHER INSULATED FIELD LUG and nothing on the lug that is grounded out. Since you're using a two field wire harness for unknown reasons then that second field lug shouldn't be grounded out, it should be insulated just like the other one. You're cooking the blue wire as it's positive and you have a dead short to ground off that field lug.
 
Where and what, need a 2 groove pulley, 2 field wire, Alternator for 69-1/2 Bee, trying to avoid chrome, GM or anything NOT OEM looking.. For some reason, new Year One harness BLUE wire wanted to melt with this one from E Bay.. Only 11.4 V output..
:BangHead:
View attachment 1032796
:mad:View attachment 1032795
1970 and up 2 before computerized voltage regulation hope this helps

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