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Amazon fuse block, will it work?

Innoi

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I have a 69 Coronet, and I have been contemplating removing my old glass fuse block for a newer blade style. I have a couple of reasons, first I have added a tach, more powerful radio and power antenna. I plan on adding a few more things which will need their own circuit such as an A/C system. I’ve looked around and there are many companies which make a whole new wire harness but I’m not sure I need all that. I was wondering if I could pick up one of those “Blue Sea” brand fuse blocks on amazon. My concern is if I can just remove the old fuse block and put the new one in with the old wires mainly on the same circuits, I may separate a few.
 
I would leave the existing and add the new one. It could be in a different location, the important thing is to find a good location to pick up the supply, preferably not adding the new loads to the firewall bulkhead connector. Starter relay is a good place.
 
I did this sort of thing a couple of times as I added new components... then finally took the plunge and rewired the car completely with a Ron Francis Kit. It was pretty straightforward and I was happy with it. It started the first time I turned the key, and I went from 5 main fuses to about 28 now - with room for a couple more circuits.

While I was doing the rewiring and learning about my old wiring, it was rather odd that my brake light circuit got its power from the wiper motor lead. A lot of shared wires on these old cars!
 
I have used Blue Sea blocks on several cars. I love them. They are high quality and utilize some features I like but I would probably go the way mentioned by Don Frelier earlier.
There are some things to consider if you intend to replace the new block for everything.
Original fuse blocks have a switched and an un-switched side so you'll need a split buss fuse block or install two independent fuse blocks.
Mounting the new block in the same location as the original (to accommodate the original wiring harness) may not be as easy as expected.
Some existing wires may not be long to reach each lug without splicing.
Blue Sea uses screw terminals instead of the original push on terminals so you'll need to put new ends on the old wires.
 
I added separate block thru a fused relay and it's hot only with key in on position. Have stereo, tach, and volt gauge and gauge lights hooked to it. Have several more open fuses for future use.
 
I did this sort of thing a couple of times as I added new components... then finally took the plunge and rewired the car completely with a Ron Francis Kit. It was pretty straightforward and I was happy with it. It started the first time I turned the key, and I went from 5 main fuses to about 28 now - with room for a couple more circuits.

While I was doing the rewiring and learning about my old wiring, it was rather odd that my brake light circuit got its power from the wiper motor lead. A lot of shared wires on these old cars!
Is this the kit you used?

https://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=WR-95
 
No, I used the Express Kit since I was getting completely away from typical Mopar components, it made more sense to me since I'm running MSD, EFI, 1-wire alternator, and a keyless ignition system.

I've also used the 7-Relay wiring kits prior to this, 3 circuits hot, 4 keyed, and that worked well for all my add-ons. But it got to be too much with all of my modifications, so I decided rewiring the car was going to be better for my needs.
 
Also, keep in mind that the more you add to your electrical, think about an alternator upgrade if you haven't done so already. You can get 65 amp alternators at most parts stores if you swap over to the later, internal regulator, or go with a 1-wire 100+ amp alternator.
 
On a 69 Coronet, the starter relay is not a good place to pull power for anything unless those items are powered when the engine is off. That location, when the engine is running, puts the load through the bulkhead TWICE!!!!

If you do a wire around set up, direct wire from alternator to starter relay, then the starter relay is an OK location.
 
Any other places to tap for "Keyed" power ? I too have been thinking of doing a add-on additional 5 or 10 mini fuse block.
 
I never knew about the Ron Francis wiring kit. It looks like a better way to go but it definitely is more expensive at $485. I do want to eliminate the bulkhead connector which I can do with the Ron Francis kit. The fuse block looks huge which is a concern, I don’t know where I would be able to mount it.
 
I never knew about the Ron Francis wiring kit. It looks like a better way to go but it definitely is more expensive at $485. I do want to eliminate the bulkhead connector which I can do with the Ron Francis kit. The fuse block looks huge which is a concern, I don’t know where I would be able to mount it.
It is tight underneath, but I put it on the firewall above the pedal area. Hard to get to, but there was room. I am going to rewire the car again because with the new engine I'm going to have a completely different fuel management system and other accessories I need to add, and I want to relocate the fusebox for easier access. I might do a hinged panel to the dash where it can be brought down for access and then rotated back up into place. I have to pull all the wiring and dash anyway to have a new firewall built to repair the rust spots, so I might as well re-do the whole thing anyway. It's pricey, but it has everything you will ever need. You could go to a smaller, less expensive kit with Ron Francis that has fewer circuits. I went with that one because I've added so much to the car that I needed all the circuits. Call them and ask for Scott Bowers and tell him Michael from Street Muscle Magazine sent you... he will help point you in the right direction.
 
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