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american autowire harness

redman

redman

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Finally going to update my old harness in my 68 roadrunner I bought a kit from American auto wire. Has anyone used this kit before ? Any tips would be appreciated thanks
 
Yeah, please post some pics with a progress report on how it's going. I would say a lot of people will be interested in this, myself included. Thanks and good luck
 
Yes, keep us posted. I’ve used some M&H kits, but not this brand. Where did you get it?
 
Haven't used that kit. Currently installing a ron francis 7x24 kit in my 67. If I had it to do over I would have gone with the ron francis express kit simply for the fact you pull the wires to the fuse panel. Makes for a cleaner installation. My advice is read through the instructions a couple of times ahead of starting. Start with the rear of the car and work your way forward. If you plan on updating any components eg. Led turns signal, headlights electric fans. Plan ahead and order what you need before you start. Also you will probably want to order additional wire loom and grommets before you start.
 
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Here is some pictures of the instructions that come with it and picture of fuse panel and bulk head connector. I do have to drill two holes in the firewall to use their bulkhead connector looks the same size just mounts different. They say only use one wire alternator or internally regulated alternator with this kit and take out ammeter and use voltmeter instead. I will post more pictures as I go
 
PRND21 said:
Yes, keep us posted. I’ve used some M&H kits, but not this brand. Where did you get it?
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I got it from summit it was cheaper than ordering it direct from American auto wire
 
i bought the same kit I have the fuse box installed, they recommended laying it flat on its back on the bottom of glove box but couldn't see the fuses. I ended up fabbing a 4" x 8" metal plate and ran two self tapping 1 1/4"screws into the cowl backed them out and inserted a 3/4" rubber spacer (rubber floor protector off an old small compressor i had) between the plate and cowl, while running the screw through them, to give it some anti vibration and to square up the plate with the back of the glove box. then put a bracket shaped like a z and attached to a bolt on my heater box and the other end to the fuse box plate. no doubt its a tight fit, but looks way better and way more usable. I did remove my heater box so i could remove my glove box without destroying it. the rest of it is laying in dash haven't got any further than that. talked to an electrician friend of mine he suggested to use new rubber lined screw clamps to hold the wires in place under dash to hold the them where u want them especially over the column area where they sometimes wear.
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Buy the crimpers too unless you already have the correct type to do the connectors that are used in our cars. I bought the pair in your picture, after I used an AA wire package for a 67 Camaro at work,and I like them much better than what I used which is the set from Pertronix with the changeable jaws. The AA units do a way better crimp. One thing that bugged me on the Chevy was they still used fuseable links in the setup. Painless and Francis, I got the Francis for my 65 Coronet, use master fuses instead which are much better. Fuseable links went away for a reason.
 
they are located about 15 miles from me, maybe i can save on shipping
 
ckessel said:
Buy the crimpers too unless you already have the correct type to do the connectors that are used in our cars. I bought the pair in your picture, after I used an AA wire package for a 67 Camaro at work,and I like them much better than what I used which is the set from Pertronix with the changeable jaws. The AA units do a way better crimp. One thing that bugged me on the Chevy was they still used fuseable links in the setup. Painless and Francis, I got the Francis for my 65 Coronet, use master fuses instead which are much better. Fuseable links went away for a reason.
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The American Autowire kit I put in my '55 Plymouth used a master fuse.
 
i got a little further got the bulk head bolted in, bottom bolt kinda sits right on the side of a hump in the firewall which makes it kinda silly, buts works nonetheless, laid the wires out to relax, that's all I will be doing for a while, going to jump into the 4 wheel disc brake, get that rolling until I need something order it and wait, then mess with wiring some more. opened the box with the new crimpers, put some shots of the labeled wire and some plug ends, they look and feel quality, I noticed theres a conversion for the steering column plug in, which will be a little involved.
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started working on the harness some more, basically took all the switches out of the dash cluster and sent the rest to instrument specialties for re-lettering, circuit boards, and calibration. cleaned up all the switches with contact cleaner, lubed the mechanical moving parts, was planning on replacing the chrome covers, but with the buffing wheel all turned out great except for wiper switch, probably overheated and caused chrome to peal. Plugged all those in to test, minus wiper, most of this kit is plug and play, basically figuring out what you want on your car, has all the electric fan, electric choke, tac, extra courtesy light receivers for under dash, all plug ins for door jamb switches map light, glove box light ash tray light, third brake light, etc. even has the four speed back up warning light in dash. I think they offer more original wiring kits if you don't plan on upgrading items. the end wires on the far connections like the headlight harness, taillight starter wires are extra long for a custom fit, that's where the crimpers come into play. the steering column harness needs to be taken apart on the column feed connector, (that is not part of the new harness) and change it out to there style, same on wiper plug in under hood. haven't found out why there different yet but will be into that soon. hi beam switch is different than one for a 68, it has three flat prong parallel to each other instead of having the single one turned 90 degrees. basically if you can read a wiring schematic, and know how the car works, i think most can do this. I've been using a little dielectric grease on the connections just to ease the plug assembly they are tight and right, just how ya like them!
 
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