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Another 383 build.

Kern Dog

Life is full of turns. Build your car to handle.
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I didn't want to hijack the Swedish guy's thread anymore so I started this thread.
I'm rebuilding the original engine in this car:
2 XH A.jpg

It is a 383 2 barrel. It is virgin bore with original pistons, steel crank, 727 trans and 3,23 gears. I have other ratios I can use including 3.55s and 3.91s. I put a 3.23 chunk in it just because I had it handy.
I will be using 1 7/8" headers, a Holley 750 vacuum secondary carb on either a Holley Street Dominator or an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. At first I might get it running with a points distributor or a stock based electronic ignition.
I am looking to be at or below 9.5 to 1 since I am using iron heads with stock valve sizes. I have a set of '346 heads that had been rebuilt with new exhaust seats put in. I did some amateur porting to them and have them at the machine shop now for a 3 angle valve job.
I'm using these pistons by Speed Pro:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-l2315nf30

I am not building this engine strictly to race, I want reliability and adequate power since I'll primarily drive on the street. THis engine may not be the only engine that I use in the car. I may step up to a 440 or stroke this 383 sometime later on. I just want to get it running and have some fun with it. I may road race it . I'm not interested in building a track-only car though.
I have manual disc/drum brakes so idle vacuum isn't a concern.
I have several nice sets of stock rocker arms and shafts/pushrods so I am leaning toward a hydraulic flat tappet.
"PR Heads" mentioned something to the effect that the popular fast rate hydraulics are not suited for rpms over 6000 and my understanding is that the 383 needs to rev that high to make decent power. I respect his advice so I guess that to have some higher rpm capabilities in a hydraulic FT cam, I'd need something different than that. I ran the MP 280/474 in a stock piston 440 and it was a great performer but with the BS pricing of their cams now, I'm looking elsewhere.
I am not against a solid flat tappet even though the cost for rocker arms and pushrods adds several hundred to the cost of the build.
I am interested in camshaft suggestions as well as advice on piston rings. Cast iron? Moly ?
The Speed Pro uses a 5/64-5/64/3/16 ring pack.
Thanks!
 
I didn't want to hijack the Swedish guy's thread anymore so I started this thread.
I'm rebuilding the original engine in this car:
View attachment 956102
It is a 383 2 barrel. It is virgin bore with original pistons, steel crank, 727 trans and 3,23 gears. I have other ratios I can use including 3.55s and 3.91s. I put a 3.23 chunk in it just because I had it handy.
I will be using 1 7/8" headers, a Holley 750 vacuum secondary carb on either a Holley Street Dominator or an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. At first I might get it running with a points distributor or a stock based electronic ignition.
I am looking to be at or below 9.5 to 1 since I am using iron heads with stock valve sizes. I have a set of '346 heads that had been rebuilt with new exhaust seats put in. I did some amateur porting to them and have them at the machine shop now for a 3 angle valve job.
I'm using these pistons by Speed Pro:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/slp-l2315nf30

I am not building this engine strictly to race, I want reliability and adequate power since I'll primarily drive on the street. THis engine may not be the only engine that I use in the car. I may step up to a 440 or stroke this 383 sometime later on. I just want to get it running and have some fun with it. I may road race it . I'm not interested in building a track-only car though.
I have manual disc/drum brakes so idle vacuum isn't a concern.
I have several nice sets of stock rocker arms and shafts/pushrods so I am leaning toward a hydraulic flat tappet.
"PR Heads" mentioned something to the effect that the popular fast rate hydraulics are not suited for rpms over 6000 and my understanding is that the 383 needs to rev that high to make decent power. I respect his advice so I guess that to have some higher rpm capabilities in a hydraulic FT cam, I'd need something different than that. I ran the MP 280/474 in a stock piston 440 and it was a great performer but with the BS pricing of their cams now, I'm looking elsewhere.
I am not against a solid flat tappet even though the cost for rocker arms and pushrods adds several hundred to the cost of the build.
I am interested in camshaft suggestions as well as advice on piston rings. Cast iron? Moly ?
The Speed Pro uses a 5/64-5/64/3/16 ring pack.
Thanks!

The SFT is like the best of both worlds in that you can have pretty quick ramps, and still be able to rpm the motor.

Hydraulic cams can rev pretty good if they use a slower ramp. My 383 with the MP 280/474 will go nearly 7000 rpm. But that is with lifters that were made in this country 40 years ago.
 
I have used Johnson's solids with the EDM hole on 2 different cams.
I have had mixed luck with hydraulics. Two Comp XE285s went flat, a '508 went flat in a 360. I've never had a big block Mopar Performance cam go bad, I've used 4 of them.
 
Are you going to use a stock, cast iron 4bbl intake?
 
"I will be using 1 7/8" headers, a Holley 750 vacuum secondary carb on either a Holley Street Dominator or an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. At first I might get it running with a points distributor or a stock based electronic ignition.
I am looking to be at or below 9.5 to 1 since I am using iron heads with stock valve sizes. I have a set of '346 heads that had been rebuilt with new exhaust seats put in. I did some amateur porting to them and have them at the machine shop now for a 3 angle valve job."

With the added hood clearance that the low deck 383 gives compared to a 440, I may choose a taller single plane. The dynamics of a high revving engine are new to me so I am not so sure of what combination will perform well while having decent manners.
 
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Are the Icon pistons in the budget? The IC-687 piston uses the 1/16" piston rings.
With a 84cc head, at stock "spec" deck height of 9.980 the piston should be 0.020" below deck, and with a 0.040" head gasket compression s/b about 9.46:1
With a 0.020" head gasket, 9.93:1 compression ratio. This is about the same as if you zero decked the block and used a 0.040" head gasket.

For a cam, the Hughes SEH2226BL-10 looks like it may be what your looking for performance wise. It is 0.513"/0.525" lift, about as much lift you would want to use with stock rocker arms.

As for upgrades down the road, not sure if the piston dome fits the Edelbrock E-street head, but with the smaller 75cc chamber that could bump compression to 11:1
 
Running Dynomation 6 with some conservative air-flow numbers for the low end number and at 9.5:1 compression. The high end numbers could be acheived with some mild porting. The Hughes Cam should have peak torque of 425 to 440 ft/lbs of torque around 3600-3800 RPM, and peak power of 365 to 400 HP? at 5600-5800 RPM.
 
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Kern, I really like the Comp XS-268s and the XS- 274s cams. I'm surprised at how sharp they make a 383/440 run. I'm going to put the 274 in a new 512 this spring, that seems small but l like these XE cams. I have ran most name brands in dang near 50 years and maybe it's my combo but these suit me fine. I don't need to run past 6000.
 
I think some might say that 1 3/4" headers may be better for this build, but I am no expert here, so I will throw this out there for consideration.
 
Running Dynomation 6 with some conservative air-flow numbers for the low end number and at 9.5:1 compression. The high end numbers could be acheived with some mild porting. The Hughes Cam should have peak torque of 425 to 440 ft/lbs of torque around 3600-3800 RPM, and peak power of 365 to 400 HP? at 5600-5800 RPM.
Thanks. I'm not aware of what Dynomation is!
I'm running the 1 7/8" headers because I already have them. I also have some 2" headers but figured they would be too big for what this car can use.
 
I've used moly rings forever.....and suppose they are still a good choice? Just don't run chrome rings.
 
Well, I got some preliminary numbers back from my machinist today. We were both surprised to find the deck height wasn't too far off from the factory spec at around 9.978". Goes to show you just never know what you're going to find. But still, the block was a little off front-to-back and side-to-side. So a clean up pass to true up the decks got us to around 9.971". So I figure if we get the 906's back to around 87-88cc's, we'll be back to around 9.25:1, using the Speed-Pro pistons, which would have been factory 69 383HP compression on a good day. Again, these are based on calculations and some theoretical unknown numbers still. The heads will be next...
 
I would call Dwayne Porter but even with our time difference of 3 hours, I'm not awake or available to call at a time that would be convenient for us both.
 
I would call Dwayne Porter but even with our time difference of 3 hours, I'm not awake or available to call at a time that would be convenient for us both.

Oh yeah, cheers my West Coast friend...

On that note, I've found Dwayne is good about responding to email. So there's that.
 
He was really helpful years ago when I called about the detonation problems I was having with the 440/493 in the red Charger.
I couldn't believe it...He talked and talked to the point that I wondered if he should actually let me go so he could take a call that would make him some money. I wasn't expecting such a friendly guy.
 
Here is my personal 383 experience that ran quite well for the day (80's and 90's) in a 3700 lb 68 RR. 9.5:1 CR, Isky 280 mega cam (224@ .050), headers, Torker intake, 700 DP, 3.55 gears, 4 speed. Mid 13's @ 105 on bias plies every time I took it to Fremont. Later I built another one - the numbers matching block. Same 915 heads, forged pistons zero deck with 9.5:1 CR, MoPar .528 solid cam, Torker, 750 vac secondary, 4.88 dana (because I had it). All that in the same car it went 12.65 @ 107 with an automatic.
 
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