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Another oil filter thread

furyus

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I know it's been talked to death, but, I wanted to just mention what I found.
I changed the oil in my car last week. I had the Motorcraft filter on it. I went with the Mobil oil filter. After sitting a while, when I would start the car, I would hear alot of valve train noise. It didn't do this with the Motorcraft filter. I bought another Motorcraft filter, and changed out the $14 Mobil filter. No more valve train noise.
Hope this helps someone.
 
I know it's been talked to death, but, I wanted to just mention what I found.
I changed the oil in my car last week. I had the Motorcraft filter on it. I went with the Mobil oil filter. After sitting a while, when I would start the car, I would hear alot of valve train noise. It didn't do this with the Motorcraft filter. I bought another Motorcraft filter, and changed out the $14 Mobil filter. No more valve train noise.
Hope this helps someone.[/QUOTE
The Mobil filter probably doesn't have a anti drain back valve in it. Some do and some don't by design.
 
Could have been a sticking bypass valve also of course in the summer the oil may not be thick enough when cold to need it.
 
Has anyone here used the stainless steel screen type filters on their cars?
I think they're a great idea but don't have any experience.
 
Could have been a sticking bypass valve also of course in the summer the oil may not be thick enough when cold to need it.
I would hope that the valve wouldn't stick, considering the price. But the oil is Valvoline VR1 15w40.
 
Has anyone here used the stainless steel screen type filters on their cars?
I think they're a great idea but don't have any experience.
I used an Oberg aftermarket flat screen filter on my drag motors for a few years, worked great. Oil pressure was same as remote mounted Fram HP1('80's good quality).
 
WIX-51515.jpg

Part #51515 (for big blocks)
Simple. Done.
 
Yeah. Only reason I don't use that one is the filtration isn't as fine as the 51515...
Ed, do you know if the cans on the racing filters are heavier gauge metal. If I remember the old Fram HP's were a bit thicker. They would still blow out and ruin engines. LOL
 
I see, will pass bigger chunks, much higher flow rate.
A friend in the filter industry once told me, that they design (most) racing filters around the idea that the oil will be changed after every race/heat/pass or whatever and parts will be inspected more frequently...so it's preferable to have unfiltered oil as opposed to cleaner but lower-flowing oil. On some 'race' filters, and I don't know if WIX does it, but they open the bypass at a lower pressure differential (sooner) to keep restriction to a minimum.
 
Well, I'm sure I fit into the category of frequent oil changes on my race motors (30-40 runs not every one), or the street car that gets 500 miles per year.
 
These are interesting. Combo of both worlds. I had an Oberg on my Duster and a System 1 on my Challenger. For sure you need a way to be able to clean them plus blow them out. The 1 always seemed to pee a minor amount. I ended up just going back to a normal spin on unit. A couple of years ago I saw the Clearview units at the Goodvibrations display at the March Meet. I think this is what I'll use on my 65.Billet Connection dba ClearView Filtration – See Through Oil ...https://seethroughfilter.com
 
Ed, do you know if the cans on the racing filters are heavier gauge metal. If I remember the old Fram HP's were a bit thicker. They would still blow out and ruin engines. LOL
Didn't know that, thought maybe the opposite. But they are supposed to be for higher oil pressure, correct?
I believe that's the case gentlemen, yes.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the micron rating for the racing one is like 55?
I mean, they're both fantastic quality filters and I'd use either (probably have, in fact), but the last time
I was buying some on Summit, I got to reading specs and saw the difference in micron ratings.
Probably don't mean a thing on a street engine, really, but it caught my eye.

EDIT: I just looked it up and the 51515R filter actually is rated at 61 microns - and the description of the R filter is that it has heavier casing and internals.
 
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On some 'race' filters, and I don't know if WIX does it, but they open the bypass at a lower pressure differential (sooner) to keep restriction to a minimum.
Interestingly, both the 51515 and 51515R show a relief of 8-11 psi. You'd think there'd be a difference, eh?
 
I personally have not done it but I have seen ones that were cut open with quite a load of ferrous stuck to the shell. Plus I know first hand how having magnets on fuel filters work for keeping rust out of carburetors.
 
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