Another sending unit bites the dust.

[Unkle Krusty]

The sending unit in my tank was mostly dust.

 

[oldchevelle541]

The sending unit in my tank was mostly dust.

Not sure whats better anymore but do know what has been in my tank for 56 years was not stainless and worked well unitl recently. With old wiring i will likely source out a non-stainless to get car running then take the original and have it professionally restored and have on the ready.

 

[JG1966]

I would pull your sending unit before you do anything. I was having fuel gauge issues and everything tested OK (the car had sat for 15 years). I pulled my sending unit. The brass floater was like Swiss cheese and the "sock" was nasty. I bought a new floater and a new sock and a new lock ring gasket and reused all of the original sending unit parts (arm, lock ring, etc.) It fixed the gauge, and my fuel level reads perfectly. I was very reluctant to buy an aftermarket unit because I'd read how unreliable they are. I really wanted to stick with my OEM. There also is a way to check the sending unit for accuracy (resistance) with a multimeter when it's out of the car, but I forget what to do. It was years ago. It's in the FSM

 

[oldchevelle541]

I would pull your sending unit before you do anything. I was having fuel gauge issues and everything tested OK (the car had sat for 15 years). I pulled my sending unit. The brass floater was like Swiss cheese and the "sock" was nasty. I bought a new floater and a new sock and a new lock ring gasket and reused all of the original sending unit parts (arm, lock ring, etc.) It fixed the gauge, and my fuel level reads perfectly. I was very reluctant to buy an aftermarket unit because I'd read how unreliable they are. I really wanted to stick with my OEM. There also is a way to check the sending unit for accuracy (resistance) with a multimeter when it's out of the car, but I forget what to do. It was years ago. It's in the FSM

Thanks, I have a new non stainless enroute. Not a lot of money. could be used for parts at some point. The originals that are out there for sale that need rebuilding is crazy money. I moved ahead with getting a new one and will have the original restored for $99.00. I am fairly certain its an electrical issue with the unit itself. My 70 Coronet had a similar issue and when it was pulled the brass tab that sweeps across the resisters broke off. That was an easy rebuild.

 

[oldchevelle541]

Taking a poll.
For those that have replaced their senders on their own did you have a lift ? If yes, sounds easy. For those that do not did you remove the tank since seeing the unit directly with rear jacked up and tank in place is almost impossible. Would appreciate the tricks you employed to make it an easy install.

 

[JG1966]

Taking a poll.
For those that have replaced their senders on their own did you have a lift ? If yes, sounds easy. For those that do not did you remove the tank since seeing the unit directly with rear jacked up and tank in place is almost impossible. Would appreciate the tricks you employed to make it an easy install.

I just jacked up my rear end and did it. It's a 72 RR. My unit is on the passenger side of the tank. I'm not sure what car yours is or where it is. I believe I removed the right rear tire to give me some more room and light back there, but I definitely didn't need to remove the tank. It was much easier than I thought it would be.

 

[retractable]

I have replaced 6 tank senders in both A and B bodies. I have never dropped a tank to replace a sender. I do not have a lift .
Jack up the car so you have room and go at it. Just make sure the gas is below the sender. And get the lock ring seated correctly.
.

 

[oldchevelle541]

I just jacked up my rear end and did it. It's a 72 RR. My unit is on the passenger side of the tank. I'm not sure what car yours is or where it is. I believe I removed the right rear tire to give me some more room and light back there, but I definitely didn't need to remove the tank. It was much easier than I thought it would be.

I just jacked up my rear end and did it. It's a 72 RR. My unit is on the passenger side of the tank. I'm not sure what car yours is or where it is. I believe I removed the right rear tire to give me some more room and light back there, but I definitely didn't need to remove the tank. It was much easier than I thought it would be.

I wish I was that lucky. Mine is on rear side just across from carrier unit. Thanks for responding.

 

[oldchevelle541]

I have replaced 6 tank senders in both A and B bodies. I have never dropped a tank to replace a sender. I do not have a lift .
Jack up the car so you have room and go at it. Just make sure the gas is below the sender. And get the lock ring seated correctly.
.

On your B bodies curious how high the rear end was lifted off the ground assuming you kept front wheels on the ground. Seems that that axle has to be hanging a decent amount for rear carrier to clear that location so you can actually get your head up in there to put your eyes on what you are doing along with having room to pull the unit out.

 

[Unkle Krusty]

My tank breather hose was broken, so I needed to drop the tank and fix that problem. Too, I did not like the placement and style of the original. I use the original fuel line, but the gauge is fitted to the top of the tank.
Also, none of my dash gauges worked. My fuel gauge is in the back of the van. I put in new J hooks to hold the tank. The straps were okay. I am not stock or original. That is probably an issue for many owners. I want function.

 

[oldchevelle541]

Well, I got my replacement unit today from Mancini after the first received was incorrect. Yep, you guessed it - wrong unit, not what was ordered. We will try for a 3rd attempt.

 

[canblue]

- got into trouble shooting original gas tank sending unit today. Fuel gauge does not currently work. Needle sitting at “E”. First, we unplugged the main wire from the sending unit and grounded that main wire. Turned on ignition key for a quick moment and the gas gauge went to full confirming that the gauge and voltage limiter in the dash is good. Went to the tank and removed crusty / greasy 6” long ground strap, cleaned it and reinstalled. It made no difference, gauge still not working. Next, reached into the tank and elevated the bulb arm to see if gauge would move. No movement. Conclusion, purchase new sending unit.

I heard Mancini Racing is a preferred vendor for these. Any other vendor ? Not going with stainless just going to put in what was original, no upgrades.
Thanks

I did some quick checking on my 3rd party sending unit to check the ohm range. It meets the specs. I checked the height of a full sweep -- 6 inches in height from the sock. Looking at the specs for the gas tank, it indicates a total height of 8 inches. Yes there is room for fuel expansion in warm weather but to me it looks like the tank will hold, at max depth about 4 inches before it spills out of the filler neck on our 1969 Dodge Coronet. The after market sender that I have will never read full. Into this is the issue of linear verses non linear sending units. I was told that the old, NOS/OEM units were non linear and all of the new ones a linear giving inaccurate readings.

 

[oldchevelle541]

Called Mancini yesterday to get update on my sending unit - not in stock yet.

 

[canblue]

I did some quick checking on my 3rd party sending unit to check the ohm range. It meets the specs. I checked the height of a full sweep -- 6 inches in height from the sock. Looking at the specs for the gas tank, it indicates a total height of 8 inches. Yes there is room for fuel expansion in warm weather but to me it looks like the tank will hold, at max depth about 4 inches before it spills out of the filler neck on our 1969 Dodge Coronet. The after market sender that I have will never read full. Into this is the issue of linear verses non linear sending units. I was told that the old, NOS/OEM units were non linear and all of the new ones a linear giving inaccurate readings.

No comments on the above? I would really like to get the fuel gauge(autometer) reading correctly so I do not have to make so many fill up stops

 

[oldchevelle541]

Called Mancini still not in stock - I then asked if they had a 727 pan in stock they said inventory due in next week. I said to the guy remember 3 months ago thats what you told me about the sending unit. not trusting what I heard so I purchased the pan from JEGS, A LOT LESS MONEY.

 

[oldchevelle541]

Update: for over 2 months Mancini continued to send me the wrong sending unit. The last received was stainless which I did not want. The nonstainless is on back order and they have no zero nada ETA. As an experiment I took the stainless and wired everything up correctly outside the car. Started the car and the results were: 1- with float on full tank needle read 3/4 tank. Would not budge beyond that. 2- with float set to 1/2 tank needle read 1/4 tank. 3- when float set to 1/4 full needle read empty. In summary sending unit is off by 1/4 tank. I don’t want to modify sending unit in any way at this time in case I return it.
I was thinking to just install this one so I can send my original off to have it restored. Who even knows if that will be accurate. More money spent.

Or

Just leave everything as is with using the 10 miles per gallon rule. Either way you may be finding yourself always topping off.

If it was your car what would you do??

 

[dadsbee]

Set it up to read the last 5 gallons correctly. Who gives 2 shats about anything else?

 

[oldchevelle541]

Set it up to read the last 5 gallons correctly. Who gives 2 shats about anything else?

So based on my description where on the unit do you adjust ? These repro's are wonky to begin with and bending this and that could create more issues.

 

[oldchevelle541]

So based on my description where on the unit do you adjust ? These repro's are wonky to begin with and bendiing this and that could create more issues.

PS: when the float setting is at empty it pretty much bottoms out on the filler tube and sock.

 

[oldchevelle541]

just watched a you-tube on adjusting the unit on "Clarks Place". To me this is what not to do. The more they fussed with the unit the more the unit was being compromised. Worth watching for awareness.