• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Another sending unit bites the dust.

Returning the Mancini unit for a refund. Found a guy that restores old original units. Will keep all posted.
 
Just as a note:

1) Silver is rated at 105% for conductivity and 1.64 u/Ohm per cm (49.99 u/Ohm per foot)
2) Copper is rated at 100% for conductivity and 1.72 u/Ohm per cm (52.43 u/Ohm per foot)
3) Gold is rated at 70% for conductivity and 2.46 u/Ohm per cm (74.98 u/Ohm per foot)
4) Cast Steel is rated at 10.70% for conductivity and 16.03 u/Ohm per cm (488.29 u/Ohm per foot)
5) 304 Stainless is rated at 2.39% for conductivity and 72.0 u/Ohm per cm (2194.56 u/Ohm per foot)
 
My 68 Coronet Station Wagon's sending unit stopped working and I replaced it with a unit from Vans Auto Parts quite a few years ago. The gauge readings are as accurate as the original when it was working. I recently sent the original off to Desert Classic Parts for restoration. My reostat was in very good shape but the brass (I think) contact strap was gone. They sent me full and empty readings prior to sending it back to me. I will keep it as a backup should I need it. Turnaround was quick as well.
Desert Classic Parts | Quality Restoration Parts for Collectable Vehicles
 
Their web site says price start at $90.00.
I sent the sender for my 64 fury to them two months ago go. Had it back in about a week. I just installed it and it works like it should. Very satisfied with their work.
 
My 68 Coronet Station Wagon's sending unit stopped working and I replaced it with a unit from Vans Auto Parts quite a few years ago. The gauge readings are as accurate as the original when it was working. I recently sent the original off to Desert Classic Parts for restoration. My reostat was in very good shape but the brass (I think) contact strap was gone. They sent me full and empty readings prior to sending it back to me. I will keep it as a backup should I need it. Turnaround was quick as well.
Desert Classic Parts | Quality Restoration Parts for Collectable Vehicles
I concur thats where mine is going as soon as I pull it. Bill is great there.
 
Update: finally removed original sending unit from my tank yesterday. Even with the car in the air and axle hanging you still cant get your head in front of the tank to really see what you are doing. Had to use a mirror to place my retaining ring removal tool in the right spot to get a good hit with the hammer. 2 short swings and she was unlocked. I did bend the handle of the tool 90 degrees to make it more usable with the GTX's tank design. None the less it came out and first thing noticed was the brass float was full of gas. Numerous areas cracked (see photo). I am sending it off to be restored. What a journey. Guys, dont waste your time on buying those reproductions, take your original our and send off to be repaired. Down time will be about 2 weeks but worth getting rid of the frustration with overpriced non-working junk that is 1/4 tank off of accurate out of the box. My last buy from Mancini is on its way back for a refund.
IMG_4073.JPG
IMG_4077.JPG
 
Another update and question.
I purchased the thicker locking ring from Vans Auto and kept my old one. They are different but I think I notice a design improvement on the Vans Auto piece. I put old original (left side) vs new ring side by side and the new piece has the inverted convex dimples along the outer edge. The old one has none. On the gas tank the tangs/tabs that help lock in the unit and compress the gasket have a corresponding shape with a convex style inverted dimple. Soooo.......when we install sending unit I assume it is a must to get the dimple on the locking ring to engage and seat into it's corresponding dimple on the gas tank tang. On the old locking ring the ring was just tapped until the raised edge compressed the rubber gasket good and tight. IMG_4070.JPGIMG_4082.jpegIMG_4086.jpeg

IMG_4085.jpeg
 
Just as a note:

1) Silver is rated at 105% for conductivity and 1.64 u/Ohm per cm (49.99 u/Ohm per foot)
2) Copper is rated at 100% for conductivity and 1.72 u/Ohm per cm (52.43 u/Ohm per foot)
3) Gold is rated at 70% for conductivity and 2.46 u/Ohm per cm (74.98 u/Ohm per foot)
4) Cast Steel is rated at 10.70% for conductivity and 16.03 u/Ohm per cm (488.29 u/Ohm per foot)
5) 304 Stainless is rated at 2.39% for conductivity and 72.0 u/Ohm per cm (2194.56 u/Ohm per foot)
Thanks for sending that table. I think a 22awg Cu wire has a resistance of 0.016 Ohms/ft whereas a 304 stainless 22awg has a resistance of 0.695 Ohms/ft. I heard the new I6 Hurricane twin turbo electronics are so sensitive that a ground resistance change of 0.2 Ohm can cause them to glitch. That new stuff is too sensitive! An old Mopar fuel sending unit range is about 10 ohm full to 72 ohm empty
 
Yesterday I installed my original sending unit received from Desert Classic Parts. Everything works as expected. It was a long journey but the learning experience and outcome was worth it. As a side note I cleaned and re-used my original locking ring. The new ring I purchased with the dimples just would not engage and lock using both the tool and large hammer with screw driver. I am sure if tank was out of the car no problem but laying on your back in a tight space with little room to swing a hammer i was not going to take a chance after all this time to damage something. The original ring worked for over 55 years so it was a good second choice.
BTW: I would use Bill at Desert again. quick turn around and fairly priced.

Dont waste your time on buying repro.
 
Does it make sense to add another ground to the tank? I replaced the missing ground strap, but I cannot get the gauge to work properly. When I ground the gauge, it will go to about 7/8, but when I hook it up to the sending unit I'm getting nothing. It's a new sending unit I put in last year and the resistance was good, but other work took precedence, so I want to resolve the issue.... Hopefully. I was thinking of adding a tab on one of the corners of the tank with a fresh ground wire. (Maybe to the battery?)
 
Well, update on the aftermarket sending unit. Haven't dug into it yet, but on my way home last week from a car show, my gauge quit reading and went to below empty as if the car was shut off. I'm guessing the sender took a dump but could be the gage also.
I'm waiting for a cool down in current temps to tackle it.
 
Just thought I would suggest this, I’ve had a few non working sending units that I’ve run thru my ultrasonic cleaner for a couple of heated cycles and everyone of them has come out and worked. Your results may vary but it’s worked for me and in less than an hour
 
Back
Top