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Any advice on replacing upper A arms?

PeteyDaMan

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I just received my new QA1 upper A arms for "The Beast" (71 Charger)
Just seeing if there are any gottcha's on this job.
It seems pretty straight forward as I rebuilt the entire front suspension when I rebuilt the car 3 years ago

Here's my plan:
support the lower control arm or unload the torsion bars
mark the eccentric bolt locations
unbolt the ball joint
unbolt the eccentrics
remove
reverse

sound about right?
 
yep it's pretty straightforward

If in doubt
Go to QA1's site, there are literally 'tonnes of videos'
great products
good luck
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I did have the non-adjustable & the adjustable styles
of formerly "Capps Automotive"
I think were sold as 'MoPar Performance' for a time too,
made by Capps Automotive
UCAs with poly bushings, that worked really well, on my last 2 previous RRs
QA1 is who bought them (Capps Automotive) out a decade or so ago,
looks to be still the same design/concept...

QA1 single adj. shown
Suspension Mopar Performance {Capps Automotive} Mopar B-body Adjustable UCA's.jpg


I don't have their QA1s UCAs

I do have & did use the QA1s LCAs with opt. swaybar mounts welded before too
MRE QA1 tubular lower control arm.jpg


For UCAs
I now have SPC now double adjustable with poly upper bushing now
still, the same procedures to install
just no eccentrics/cams, they send specific bolts
the adjustment are all on/in the arms, adj. them while installed
no need to take out to adjust, like some aftermarket UCAs,
you can add some extra camber &/or caster, if need be
that the 'solid-nonadjustable' types don't have
MRE SPC Fully adjustable Upper Control arms $240 each.jpg
 
Last edited:
You don’t need to support the lca or release the tension on the torsion bar. Just undo the ball joint nut, control arm bolts and replace with your new stuff.
 
Very good chance the eccentric cam locations won't translate over to your new arms for set up and alignment. Might get you in the ball park but I'd definitely want to get the front end aligned properly afterwards. I've learned this the hard way a couple times over the years, even OEM/direct fit parts can and will throw off the previous alignment and cost you a set of tires which is a lot more than the cost of an alignment. ;)
 
What do you mean “won’t translate over”? They use factory hardware.
 
You don’t need to support the lca or release the tension on the torsion bar. Just undo the ball joint nut, control arm bolts and replace with your new stuff.
Are you saying the upper bump stop does not prevent further downward movement? It's just merely floating there.
 
Very good chance the eccentric cam locations won't translate over to your new arms for set up and alignment. Might get you in the ball park but I'd definitely want to get the front end aligned properly afterwards. I've learned this the hard way a couple times over the years, even OEM/direct fit parts can and will throw off the previous alignment and cost you a set of tires which is a lot more than the cost of an alignment. ;)
yep, I already have an appointment for an alignment set for Monday
 
Why do ya need to go down? It can be done your way, but why mess with the hassle?
 
FYI, I did this on Friday. Took me about 1 1/2 and was super easy.
Thanks guys!
 
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