Anyone ever use 16" pavers for a pole barn floor?
- Thread starter YY1
- Start date
YY1
Well-Known Member
Yeah.
It's kind of a low area.
...but I've already got 3 courses at the non-door end with my tool boxes and workbench on them.
All with no underlayment of anything other than the FL sugar sand rich "dirt".
Haven't had problems with those.
It's kind of a low area.
...but I've already got 3 courses at the non-door end with my tool boxes and workbench on them.
All with no underlayment of anything other than the FL sugar sand rich "dirt".
Haven't had problems with those.
BigCountryMopar
Well-Known Member
While probably more expensive, I would think pier pads would hold up better to weight. I drove my truck over some step stones at my parents and it broke them right in two. Pier pads I have driven over and never an issue. As mentioned above the base they’re set on will make a lot of difference.
440 Charger
Well-Known Member
Live here in sw fl fl also did a bunch of pavers and they washed out quickly. Ended up getting bags of type 2 portland raked it in the sugar sand placed pavers grouted the top with the portland. Worked great drive on them all the time no problem. If the sugar sand is really loose mix in some #57 stone. I did the front yard and side of the garage let the grass grow back. Lol looks like a yard but you can drive and park on it like concrete.
R413
Well-Known Member
Depends on what is underneath them and the ground water. You definitely need gutters and get that roof water away from the area.
A front tire of your car is 1200 lbs and the forces of a turn could do way more damage than a tool box or work bench.
barbee6043
Well-Known Member
- Local time
- 1:47 PM
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2008
- Messages
- 2,554
- Reaction score
- 2,474
- Location
- S E Texas. Shepherd, texas
Not sure what you are using but old city street were made of brick (pavers) and held up well into modern times.
440 Charger
Well-Known Member
Everyone on here is an expert thats amazing.
R413
Well-Known Member
Ok sir, please tell us 2 things. 1) What’s wrong with what I typed. Is it not something To consider?
2) what is your ideas on the subject.
Dan64
Well-Known Member
YY1, pavers could work but will eventually move around on you, becoming slightly uneven. That being said , first make sure that you cut out any top soil material due to the fact that it can't be compacted and shouldn't be present under any surface material. If you have sugar sand ,believe it or not ,it can be a great base once it's capped with either asphalt millings ,crushed concrete ect., 2 1/2" to 3" should be enough. Loot out the sand level and when applying your base material the trick is not to mix the sand with the base material. When sand sub base is capped it will support weight very well but if the sand and base material mixes it may allow movement. the paver material will matter a lot also. Concrete base pads are made from a high p.s.i. level 3000 lbs. or better. Quick test might be to drop your paver flat onto a small rock hitting the middle of the paver, if it breaks don't even waist your time evaluating the pavers any farther.
Last edited:
pushrod
Well-Known Member
Have you compared the cost of concrete to installing pavers?
I would think there's not much difference. A yard of concrete 4" thick covers 88sf. A lot of advantages as you will find it much more user friendly. Easier to clean and more stable plus if you're ever planning on a lift it will support most up to 14,000 lbs.
I may not be an expert but 50 yrs. in the building business taught me a lot of good lessons.
I would think there's not much difference. A yard of concrete 4" thick covers 88sf. A lot of advantages as you will find it much more user friendly. Easier to clean and more stable plus if you're ever planning on a lift it will support most up to 14,000 lbs.
I may not be an expert but 50 yrs. in the building business taught me a lot of good lessons.
YY1
Well-Known Member
No way to get concrete truck anywhere near the area.
Pumping- not so much into the cost.
My 8x12 shed had to have the slab brought in wet with a bucket load tractor.
Not really interested in mixing up for a 26x30 pour myself.
The pavers I could do a dozen or so at a time, like I did my walk.
The motorcycles in and out over them for close to 10 years only depressed one paver in the center of the walk next to the porch about 1/4 of an inch.
I'm leaning toward getting some visqueen and enough to do either half or from the wall to just past the car and seeing how that holds up. Even with the cheap Lowes pavers its about $350.
Pumping- not so much into the cost.
My 8x12 shed had to have the slab brought in wet with a bucket load tractor.
Not really interested in mixing up for a 26x30 pour myself.
The pavers I could do a dozen or so at a time, like I did my walk.
The motorcycles in and out over them for close to 10 years only depressed one paver in the center of the walk next to the porch about 1/4 of an inch.
I'm leaning toward getting some visqueen and enough to do either half or from the wall to just past the car and seeing how that holds up. Even with the cheap Lowes pavers its about $350.
yella71
Well-Known Member
As stated pavers are fine if the base is set up for the way you want to use them. The right install and you could put a tandam dump truck on them. And yes I had a customer who did just that pavers for a pole barn floor
Ironbuilt
Well-Known Member
I believe that the old city streets were closer to a Belgium block than a paver stone. The "Belgium" blocks, or "cobblestones" used in streets back in the mid 1800's were actually granite stones. They are a far cry from today's paver stones. For the price of a paver stone driveway, you can probably pour cement, especially if you build the forms and tie the rebar yourself.
Last edited:
- Local time
- 2:47 PM
- Joined
- May 14, 2011
- Messages
- 17,232
- Reaction score
- 32,405
- Location
- On the Ridge, TN
You know me....I'm all about what it would feel like to be on my back under a car while
laying on top of whatever floor there is.
Pavers are abrasive as hell on old human flesh. Just sayin'.
There's a reason I finally have a garage with a epoxy-coated concrete floor after all these years....
No sand or worries about the ground supporting weight out here - just had a 25-ton tandem out
yesterday on the ridge and they can turn around in the yard, so it's either natural clay/rock, gravel or concrete
out here.
HD type pavers, we break those pretty quick.
Florida is of course a whole 'nother critter. I imagine everything sinks in easily there?
laying on top of whatever floor there is.
Pavers are abrasive as hell on old human flesh. Just sayin'.
There's a reason I finally have a garage with a epoxy-coated concrete floor after all these years....
No sand or worries about the ground supporting weight out here - just had a 25-ton tandem out
yesterday on the ridge and they can turn around in the yard, so it's either natural clay/rock, gravel or concrete
out here.
HD type pavers, we break those pretty quick.
Florida is of course a whole 'nother critter. I imagine everything sinks in easily there?
YY1
Well-Known Member
I calculated the cost of doing one side (26x15) at $350 for pavers.
Last slab I had poured was only 8x12 and after I did the footer (actually monolithic) digging and the framing, it was $850 for the low bid and that was in 2006! Not counting the cost of the framing.
Last slab I had poured was only 8x12 and after I did the footer (actually monolithic) digging and the framing, it was $850 for the low bid and that was in 2006! Not counting the cost of the framing.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
My simple answer is save your money and pour it, I can't imagine any senerio where I'd ever be happy working on pavers. Down the road you'll be fixing them, replacing cracked ones not to mention loosing things in the cracks...
If your on social media put some feelers out for concrete work. I did this and found a guy 1/2 mile up the road, he does it on the side and if I help (raking) where he doesn't have to pay another body he cuts me a break. Everything is ready when he shows up too, forms, rebar, leveling, etc.
There's always a way to get concrete where you need it, I've pumped it, I've bucketed it in a Steiner bucket, rented concrete buggies, made long shoots, etc.
If your on social media put some feelers out for concrete work. I did this and found a guy 1/2 mile up the road, he does it on the side and if I help (raking) where he doesn't have to pay another body he cuts me a break. Everything is ready when he shows up too, forms, rebar, leveling, etc.
There's always a way to get concrete where you need it, I've pumped it, I've bucketed it in a Steiner bucket, rented concrete buggies, made long shoots, etc.
747mopar
Well-Known Member
I don't know if you were being sarcastic or actually meaning it but I will say this.. This forum is packed full of experts from just about every profession you can imagine, it's actually quite impressive the knowledge that can be gained if you ask and listen. I've tackle many jobs over the years I've been on here and for everything I dive into there's a professional on here that's willing to help.
YY1
Well-Known Member
If I'm going to pour, I might as well raise the structure and pour under the walls so it can be anchored to the slab.
That's a LOT of work.
Might as well sell the existing structure and build new.
That's a LOT of work.
Might as well sell the existing structure and build new.
Similar threads
