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Anyone have experience with The Right Stuff brake conversion kits?

66_B_Body4ever

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Met these guys at Mopars at the Strip, they have very economical kits (less than 1000.00) for complete 4 wheel disc brake conversion kits for B-Bodies. 11" discs, dual piston A body calipers, spindles, hoses, lines, master cylinder, proportioning valve etc. Claims to be all Mopar stuff...
 
I got a whole set sitting in a box waiting to go into my roadrunner as soon as I am done with the suspension rebuild 66 B Body4ever...

Parts look to be good quality...Directions are pretty decent until it comes to the brake booster/master cylinder install..All it pretty much says is secure the bolts and adjust brake rod as needed. Problem is, the rod in the back and the supplied bracket will in no way work with the factory pedal/linkage set up......I'll be giving them a call when i get to that point to see what they recommend or have seen done in the past.
 
Let me know how it goes Propwash... what camshaft are you running with powerbrakes? that is another question I have. I am pretty sure the MP .509 lift hydraulic cam won't give me the vacuum I will need...
 
Will do 66'.....I'll be running the Hydraulic Comp Cams Extreme Energy Hi-Lift .564" in my 512 Stroker. I spoke with comp cams as well as a couple guys running these cams w/power brakes and all said vaccum for power brakes is not an issue..

Regardless, I have a electric Vacuum pump on hand if i'm not pulling #16-18. Can't always trust the popular vote...
 
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I bought a Right Stuff kit for the front on the "DOG", parts looks great and I was told the same thing as far as all based off of Mopar A-body hardware. No interest in doing the rear conversion for the time being.
 
I bought a Right Stuff kit for the front on the "DOG", parts looks great and I was told the same thing as far as all based off of Mopar A-body hardware. No interest in doing the rear conversion for the time being.
Have you had them in operation yet Detmatt1 ? How much of their stuff for the front end kit did you use?
Thanks boys!
 
Haven't installed yet unfortunately. I got there basic front conversion kit, everything but the master cylinder. I got it off the local Craigslist, the guy I got it from bought the kit and ended up not using it, I think he sold the car before he got a chance to use it, but used the master cylinder for something else. I place a big order from PST for the rest of the front end parts including a new sway bar, etc.
 
I tell you what guys, I just haven't had any luck with the vendor's i've been using lately.
The garbage dash pad, then my splash shields from auto body specialties shipped to some dude in penn state over 2 weeks ago and now on to Right Stuff Detailing...I'm really starting to wonder if there is some strange kind of VooDoo curse on my car and I.

So I called Right stuff to inquire into the bracket/linkage off the new power booster that looks totally different than the stock configuration on my roadrunner. When I called up and ordered this kit, I specified all the important facts about the factory options with the brake's..Factory power drum brake car with 11" drums. I spoke with a "Bear" fella the first time and yesterday a "Jason" chap.

After talking with Jason and explaining it would boil down to a frankenstein project to make this work, he stated this power booster does not work with a factory power brake set up anyways, so why would I order it. There kits are only designed to work for cars that came with manual brakes and then upgrading from there. I relayed to him when I spoke with the first cat and disclosed all this information, he said it will bolt right in and work just fine.

Jason specified that no one makes a replacement power booster for an all ready power drum to disc converstion, but using the factory power booster with the new set up should work just fine. Something didn't sound right with that to me, so I did my research.

A. A power drum power booster is not the same as a power disc power booster...The power assist ratio is different and they do not operate the same. It will not work correctly mix/matched.

B. You can buy a power booster for a dic brake set up that is identical to stock..I did so myself yesterday after speaking with these folks. I also ordered the matching master cylinder for that booster.. Parts were ordered as I owned a factory power disc/drum on a 69' GTX and is same as the factory set up/look.

They specified they'll send over a shipping slip to ship the booster back to then and recredit my card. I called back again, told them I found a brand new stock booster/master cylinder set up, and needed to send the master cylinder back as well. He specified that their master cylinder would work just fine with that new booster, and if I send the master cylinder back there will be a restocking fee on it.

So........first they don't exist, but now that they do suddenly, they know that their product will bolt right on to it??? What the hell is wrong with people these days? Yeah..not paying it.. I'll bitch till i'm blue in the face before I pay that.

After digging deeper into the whole kit, a few other things dissapointed me as well. The supplied proportioning valve looks like something bought out of a gumball maching. Cheap, plastic and flimsy. There is no mention of installation of it in their directions or even where to begin at a generic setting point. When I inquired about that, the guy just told me have it all the way open and if your rear end is locking up, just give it a turn or two. Yuppp....Starting out with my back brakes locking up right off the bat, sure sounds like a great way to troubleshoot the system...Brilliant!!

The directions are vague all together...No mention of bench bleeding your master cylinder or specifying half the torque values..Also, not one in the kit or nothing mentioned about buying and installing a 10PSI residual brake valve for the rear drums, which is pretty much undoubtedly needed for this set up.

So thus far...kind of turning into a headache with these folks... I wouldn't quite kick them to the curd yet because the parts seem real good quality (except the adjustable prop. valve), but I would double specify what your stock configuration is and confirm it again. Do not rely on them for an accurate set up with your conversion, do your homework. I got great information speaking with the folks at Wilwood on the in depth/engineering workings of the typical braking systems for different arragements with converstions.

Good luck!
 
Thanks for the info Prop, I think I'll do some more research before i just go and order a kit from them, as I too am going from power drum to power disc on my '71
 
Prop,
Been to the shop quite a few times, they are only about 20 minutes from me, and they are a very helpful operation. The owner showed me around the place in one of their old locations, before the two moves. Went for a line one time and they had to bend me one, while I waited, and was very impressed witht he knowledge of the professional 'benders'.
I learned just from doing my car that there are so many options in brakes that not everyone you talk to will know all you need to know about the conversion. In my experiance they have taken care of what I needed and done it without complaint, hope they do the same with you.
Now finding a disk brake booster to replace mine was a NIGHTMARE. Luckily the guys at NAPA spent hours helping me out and finally sent my original out to be rebuilt and now it is pretty and hopefully works really well. Will find out soon...
 
on my 69 bee someone had already instaled an electric vacume pump on the lefthand side of the car close to the vin tag. it makes a bit of a rackett until you start the engine and then you cant hear it. A disc brake kit from The right stuff popped up for sale here in N.Z so I grabbed it and found that it had all the right bits to do the job. I still ran the vac pump as well and the brakes are sweet as.
 
How do you know what you have... i have a 65 coronet 440...im pretty much standing on my pedal. Ive been looking into the disc swap on mine to and i found summitracing has some good kits too....
 
There was a sheet with the kit that said "The Right Stuff"
You will have to choose a kit and go with it.
I wouldn't have thought that Summit Racing would be selling a kit that wasn't suitable and a bigger company like that may be good on after sales enquiries.
Good Luck, your brakeing leg muscles will thank you for it.
 
I posted some more info on my car's resto thread but figured I should post it here as well.

So....Little update.

Tossed on all the equipment on the passenger side and then went to toss on the drivers side. When I went to install the rotor, she would only go 3/4 the way down. Inner bearings had the same part# and I.D.

Took the Dial Caliper to both spindle's and noticed the drivers side was .005" thicker at the last transition on the spindle than the pass. side. Called up right stuff, told them the issue and had a replacement at my door in 2 days. New one was tight, but the bearing cleared it this time.

Everything down below is together now and seems to be the way it should be. Pretty solid. I won't be installing anymore of their kit untill the car is painted
 
I bought the 4 wheel disc kit, for my 69 roadrunner, it originally had 4wheel drum/manual brakes.... LET ME SAY THIS STUFF IS A PILE OF MISMATCHED CHINA JUNK!!! I have been trying to make my kit for 2 weeks or more now. and tomorrow its getting all removed and returned to summit..
 
WOW!!! All of your post are jaw dropping and eye opening! I'm looking now to have my drum to disc conversion done. I was looking at The Right Stuff but now I'm not so sure. Also, I'm trying to decide on the pros and cons for manual as apposed to power. One more also. Should I just convert the front or should I do front and rear at the same time? Any input would be helpful. Thanks!
 
It is an inexpensive kit, and fairly generic with not very good instructions.
On the other hand the brakes fit inside my 15" rims.
The rear Disc conversion, you need to weld brake hose tabs to the axle, and modify the rear axle hard lines.
The Emergency brake cable attachment is about 2" further back than the stock drums, and they don't sell the correct length cables for the conversion.
The rear proportion valve looks really cheap, so I used a WillWood valve. Front brakes seem OK? Power Master cylinder sticks out from the firewall quite a ways.
The booster bracket has slotted attachment points so the booster can be moved up and down on the firewall?
I haven't driven the car, still need to get time to finish wiring the car.
 
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