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Anyone running mid to high 12s, what are your 60 foot times?

biomedtechguy

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I'm trying to gauge what a decent, good, great, and crappy 60 foot time is for a 12 second car.
I've been in the low 2.0X/2.1X second 60ft range, and I'm certain I have the power to be in the high 12s in BOTH the Roadrunner and the GTO, but both cars are manual transmission cars. The Roadrunner has a lot more problems with wheelspin at the launch, and I'm about to address that. The GTO doesn't spin as much so far, but it is also a couple of 10ths and about 3 mph slower in the 1320.
I spoke with the drivers of several other cars in that 12 to 13 second range at the track a couple of nights ago, and the ones I talked with were also in the 2 to 2.xx 60 foot time range.
So, what about you all??
Thanks!
 
2's are pretty bad. Using all-season street tires? Some Sticky MT ET Radials or some tires like that should get you into the 1.8's or less pretty easy.
 
Take this with a grain of salt. IMO, learn how to drive a stick. When I was 20-21 and spending a lot of my time at the local tracks, I was turning low 1.6's with bias ply tires and some cheap home made traction bars. Wish I had saved time slips over those years, but the priority was to beat the guys in the opposing lane. Time slips usually got trashed everytime I cleaned out the car. Hope I don't ruffle any feathers but..........
 
looked at a time slip from the convertible that has old 255x60x15 BFG street radials, I think 400 tread wear? Also a stick car. one was 2.104 60', 13.740 ET @ 102.93 MPH. The other was 2.302 60', 13.770 ET @ 103.99 MPH.
The Charger was in the 1.7's with 12 second ETs around 105 to 110 MPH with the old 451 engine.
with the new 500" stroker, my 60' was slower (car need some suspension help) times around 1.8+, 11.7x ETs, around 120 MPH
 
looked at a time slip from the convertible that has old 255x60x15 BFG street radials, I think 400 tread wear? Also a stick car. one was 2.104 60', 13.740 ET @ 102.93 MPH. The other was 2.302 60', 13.770 ET @ 103.99 MPH.
The Charger was in the 1.7's with 12 second ETs around 105 to 110 MPH with the old 451 engine.
with the new 500" stroker, my 60' was slower (car need some suspension help) times around 1.8+, 11.7x ETs, around 120 MPH
You were moving it once you got rolling. :)
 
My Fury's 60 foot times were in the 1.8 sec range when I was running 12.30's. Best 60 foot was 1.81 sec.
 
12.872 ET 109.26 MPH
60 foot 2.120
4000 lbs Dodge Charger with street tires and 3.23 Suregrip...

capture d’écran.png

.
 
2's are pretty bad. Using all-season street tires? Some Sticky MT ET Radials or some tires like that should get you into the 1.8's or less pretty easy.
he's got drag radials on the RR
just not very good ones
short & stiff sidewalls 17" tires in the 26"-27" range

IMO is his biggest problems
even more than the typical stick/clutch manual car inconsistencies
he's giving up 3+ tenths in 60' alone

sorry Bio
 
Bio, my 1st time out with 3800# Satellite 500" motor, 10" Turbo Action, 4.10 325/50 BFG Drag Radials was 1.72 60', 12.68@103. Opened the headers 1.62 60', 11.87@111
 
My first ever run with this car doing an 8.32 in the 1/8 mile (which would be like a high 12 in the 1/4) the 60 foot was 1.81.

This eventually got whittled down to a best 60 foot of 1.66. If it ever 60 foots in the mid 1.75 and up I can feel it spinning off the line. I think 2.0 and up leave lots of room for improvement.

But is this with an auto, I've never tried to drag race any car with a stick so I don't know anything first hand about how hard it might be to make one hook.

The first thing I would try is to get some bias ply slicks mounted on a 15" rim and go from there.
 
Real street car at west coast sea level tracks. 3725 lbs

1.89-1.91
12.80 @ 106

This car has a very low stall speed converter. MT ET street bias tires 28” tall 3.91 rear.
Runs strong at the finish line.
When I bracket race a small block chev car with similar ET they are out on me and I can see their license plate, then I drive right on by.

IMO you need to scrap the rubber band tires on both your manual trans cars and get 15” drag Tires with sidewalls. Wheel spin kills ET quickly.

I enjoy your videos of grabbing the gears!
 
sorry Bio
No need for apology!
I asked the question to have a benchmark. Also to be realistic about what ET I can expect if I get my 60 foot time where it "should be".
Both the Roadrunner and the GTO are riding on Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials. BOTH cars have some traction help coming, the Roadrunner more than the GTO, and that works out because the RR needs more help.
I used the line lock in the GTO, and I didn't have a tire spin problem, but I'd like to be more aggressive on the launch, and drop the 60ft times down.
Adjustable coilovers on the new rear axle housing, along with adjustable lift bar (LCA) brackets, which allow for changing the instant center. The GTO already has a factory "4 link" so to speak, and high end upper and lower control arms.
The Calvert split mono leaf springs and sliders have been delivered to the shop that is doing the installation of multiple components, and so have the Smith Racecraft Assassin traction bars.
I spoke with McLeod and I'm going to start using the HitMaster launch control system with my current organic clutch disc and 2,950 pound pressure plate, and if I need a more durable disc, the McLeod 500 series is next, w/ceramic on the billet steel flywheel side, and organic on the pp side. I'm ordering the HitMaster this coming week, and having the Hydramax hydraulic throwout bearing installed along with the tons of other crap that is being done.
I appreciate ALL of the replies!
 
rubber band tires
Lol..:poke:
Again, they were the first tires I ever tried on our new wheels, and they are better than BF Goodrich T/A radials...
Both cars are getting major components and equipment installed, and the Roadrunner is first in line, so when I get it out, I'm going to see how it launches with the:
Line lock
Split mono leaf springs
Assassin traction bars
HitMaster launch control system
That will still leave:
Rear shocks better than the 3 way adjustable CEE-2730 that are on it now, set at 50/50.
Playing with the Viking double adjustable shocks on the front now.
Different tires on the 17" wheels
Dedicated wheels and tires just for the track.

I'm going to need to make the most of what I have now, because the stroker motor I have planned is really going to be a traction challenge
 
I'm trying to gauge what a decent, good, great, and crappy 60 foot time is for a 12 second car.
I've been in the low 2.0X/2.1X second 60ft range, and I'm certain I have the power to be in the high 12s in BOTH the Roadrunner and the GTO, but both cars are manual transmission cars. The Roadrunner has a lot more problems with wheelspin at the launch, and I'm about to address that. The GTO doesn't spin as much so far, but it is also a couple of 10ths and about 3 mph slower in the 1320.
I spoke with the drivers of several other cars in that 12 to 13 second range at the track a couple of nights ago, and the ones I talked with were also in the 2 to 2.xx 60 foot time range.
So, what about you all??
Thanks!


Bio the 65 GTO IIRC has a 421 now with 3 Rochester's on it, doesn't it ?
not the org. 389 mill

I think we all know the 440-6bbl 2300 Holleys ProMaxx modified
(way better carbs)
purple shaft 509 combo now

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

my step dad Bob's old 64 GTO 389 stock bore stroke,
cleaned up blueprinted
3x2 Roch. Muncie 4 speed 4.11:1 Stock Eliminator
ran like IIRC 12.50's @ 108-110-ish, grant you it was at Fremont Raceway too
I want to say it was K/S or maybe J/S (don't quote me)
they are about a second faster today
(grant you I'm going off his tales & my old 10 y/o memories of being there)
full interior, dash, glass, heavy as org. steel wheels etc.
different jetting & curve in the distributor
gasket matching & typical speed tricks with stock stuff
(pretty limited on rules back then)
M&H old style & 'stiff' bias ply cheater slicks 15" x 28"-29" x 9"
McLeod (?) or Hayes (?) Borge Warner 3 finger high friction clutch
(as a kid I could hardly push it down)
back in the late 60's (maybe 68-69) before he got a Judge
IIRC what he told me, it'd 60' in the mid 1.70's pretty consistently
pull the left front wheel barely
his best run & 60' actually was with old worn out shocks on the front
(it really lifted the front end well, got good wheel-speed & traction)
he ordered a set of Monroe 90-10's but they didn't come in,
so he disabled some org. shocks

he was pretty damn good with a stick,
speed shifting without a clutch, after take off :bananadance:
Ronnie Sox style
 
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Man I would go with the leafs, and 15” set up for racing and see where you’re at then. I’d bet you see a major improvement
 
Bio, check out Wallace Racing calculators. They have a section called ideal mph time for 1/8 and quarter. Enter any e.t. or mph for either distance, and it will tell you what the BEST numbers should be. It will give a benchmark for any number you put in.
There are also another 200 or so interesting calculations for just about anything performance related. (And he's a Pontiac lover, too!)
 
Bio your MPH will really dictate 'what could be'
how much HP is there, getting the chassis to work/use most of it

got to http://www.wallaceracing.com (it's a Pontiac site too :poke: )
tons of calculators there to get a decent idea of what it could/should run
 
Bio, check out Wallace Racing calculators. The have a section called ideal mph time for 1/8 and quarter. Enter any 24ft or mph for either distance, and it will tell you what the BEST numbers should be. It will give a benchmark for any number you put in.
There are also another 200 or so interesting calculations for just about anything performance related. (And he's a Pontiac lover, too!)
you beat me to it :thumbsup:
I was just posting as you posted
 
You were moving it once you got rolling. :)

There is a lot of room for improvement. Cars (both) are street cars and over #4,000 pounds, and racing at Bandimers mile high altitude on small 27"x10.5"15" tires on the Charger, and the smaller BFG Radial T/As on the Convertible.
 
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