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Anyone updated their Fuse Box? What brand did you go with?

Do not think for one minute trying to install that fuse box is an easy task.
 
WHY do you want to swap fuse boxes? The only advantage - if you can call it that - is the newer style fuses.

FWIW, rewiring the dash is a ridiculously daunting task. Rewire the engine and front end ... piece of cake. Rewire the interior and rear end ... piece of cake. Rewire the dash ... absolutely nuts. A quick look at the FSM wiring diagram will tell you that.
 
WHY do you want to swap fuse boxes? The only advantage - if you can call it that - is the newer style fuses.

FWIW, rewiring the dash is a ridiculously daunting task. Rewire the engine and front end ... piece of cake. Rewire the interior and rear end ... piece of cake. Rewire the dash ... absolutely nuts. A quick look at the FSM wiring diagram will tell you that.
That's why i bought a dash harness from M&H electric. Nurse Rachett ( Rached?)didn't have enough meds for me to walk in that minefield.
 
What kind of car is it and how is it used? If it’s near stock, a factory style replacement harness will be a simple solution. Replacing one of these is far easier than anything the aftermarket has to offer. You could replace every harness in the car in a weekend where rewiring with aftermarket equipment could take months.
 
I think I am going to update my fuse box, what I found was this...

Painless 30001 12 circuit universal fuse block

Is there a better one to use?

I know they have kits to rewire the whole car, but that will probably take out my car all Summer.... :rolleyes:

Thanks!
I see no problems with the buss glass fuses, unless you just want use the blade fuses for the updated look that no one will ever see.
 
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What kind of car is it and how is it used? If it’s near stock, a factory style replacement harness will be a simple solution. Replacing one of these is far easier than anything the aftermarket has to offer. You could replace every harness in the car in a weekend where rewiring with aftermarket equipment could take months.
That's exactly why I went with a factory repop wiring harness set up Painless? Painful.
 
That's exactly why I went with a factory repop wiring harness set up Painless? Painful.
Agreed. I used the Painless harness and integrated it with Holley EFI and it was exhausting. I’ll be using a Racepak Smartwire PDU next time.
 
Fits 72 B-Body Charger Roadrunner GTX Rallye Dash Wiring Harness 1972 NEW—plug and play.
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1972 Road Runner GTX Charger Engine Harness 400/440 without air pump HU238B
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Where did you find this? Is there a link? How long you think this takes to do??
This is the route you should go. I wired my whole car using the M&H stuff. I'm no wiring prodigy, and all of it was plug, and play. Use plenty of dielectric grease on every connection, and grounds on bare metal. It took me a weekend to install. Just be patient.
 
WHY do you want to swap fuse boxes? The only advantage - if you can call it that - is the newer style fuses.

FWIW, rewiring the dash is a ridiculously daunting task. Rewire the engine and front end ... piece of cake. Rewire the interior and rear end ... piece of cake. Rewire the dash ... absolutely nuts. A quick look at the FSM wiring diagram will tell you that.
They should have put a warning in the FSM for dash wiring : may cause eyes to glaze over.
 
I think I am going to update my fuse box, what I found was this...

Painless 30001 12 circuit universal fuse block

Is there a better one to use?

I know they have kits to rewire the whole car, but that will probably take out my car all Summer.... :rolleyes:

Thanks!
Completely retired car! Ron Francis kit. Went pretty well! Pretty easy over all!
This is the old!
FC6DBBC3-40E2-40DC-827C-3140B1AD2E47.jpeg

Regardless which style or kit you go with, get a plan for tear out and install. 1 system at a time! Be methodical! It will pay off when you hit the key and everything works as it should! Good luck!
 
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