Anyone use a Ron Francis harness?

[70chall440]

I am looking for a harness for my 71 Charger and have been looking at the RF Express system. They make a lot of claims about standing behind their product for life (troubleshooting and support) and seem to have a unique approach to wiring harnesses. I am just looking for any feedback (positive or negative) about them.

 

[pnora]

Ron Francis makes mopar specific wiring harnesses? Which one are you looking at?

 

[70chall440]

@pnora The express system.

 

[pnora]

@pnora The express system.

That is a universal system. Not a plug and play. Be prepared for a lot of adaption.

 

[70chall440]

That is a universal system. Not a plug and play. Be prepared for a lot of adaption.

Thats what I am looking for actually, I am not a fan of the stock harnesses at all plus this car is far from stock, it will have a 5.7 with a TKX 5 speed. Its an AC car and I will have AC in it but which AC remains a question. I'd like to use the stock box but I don't really like the vacuum lines for the controls.

I have no problem adapting a harness, I have done it a number of times, but I have normally used a GM based aftermarket harness so I am looking for something different this time around.

 

[xs-ivv]

Are you going to get rid of the bulkhead connector and run wires straight through? I am thinking of doing this as well.

 

[70chall440]

Are you going to get rid of the bulkhead connector and run wires straight through? I am thinking of doing this as well.

Actually no, I am going to use a BH connector but rewire it to suit my setup. I like the BH connectors to be honest because I like having independent harnesses for things like the front lighting, wiper motor, etc. I don't really like one big bundle of wires coming through the firewall although I have done that.

I just did a 69 Ply Wagon which has EFI and I wired the fuse box to the BH connector and then made new front harnesses (lights, engine, etc.). The EFI harness is a stand alone harness so it doesn't go through the BH fitting but its easy to hide.

 

[xs-ivv]

Sounds like a good solution. I have seen some guys drill through the BH connector and run the wires straight through. Kinda looks factory at first glance but eliminates the pins. I haven't used a Ron Francis myself bit i will be watching to see what feedback you get as I am interested as well.

 

[70chall440]

Sounds like a good solution. I have seen some guys drill through the BH connector and run the wires straight through. Kinda looks factory at first glance but eliminates the pins. I haven't used a Ron Francis myself bit i will be watching to see what feedback you get as I am interested as well.

Thanks. On my 73 Cuda, I welded up the BH connector opening and then put a circular hole in it and ran my AM harness through that hole but I just didn't like it. I know it works and many cars are built that way, but again I like the BH connector, its look and function. I am kind of surprised that no one has come up with something like this. My main goal is to have a modern electrical system, but use the BH connector but also to relocate the fuse box to some place more convenient to service.

 

[lemondana]

I have not used one, but Ron Francis has been around longer that any of the other wiring places. Their harnesses have a serial number on them, and if you ever have any problems, call them night or day and they will help resolve the problem. They have been making street rod harnesses since the mid 70's I believe. Go to their website and order one of their paper catalogs, lot of helpful tips inside. I just got a new one the other day. I've heard the Painless harnesses are any thing but painless.

 

[lemondana]

They custom make them for your application.

 

[70chall440]

I have not used one, but Ron Francis has been around longer that any of the other wiring places. Their harnesses have a serial number on them, and if you ever have any problems, call them night or day and they will help resolve the problem. They have been making street rod harnesses since the mid 70's I believe. Go to their website and order one of their paper catalogs, lot of helpful tips inside. I just got a new one the other day. I've heard the Painless harnesses are any thing but painless.

Yeah I have read all of that, I have their catalog and I am talking to Ron Francis via email. I am asking for any comments from someone who has actually used one.

 

[70chall440]

They custom make them for your application.

So they say, but I am trying to figure out what that actually means. I have email Ron pretty much exactly what my car will be configure with/as but have not received much in the way of specifics as to what they actually do.

 

[lemondana]

OK.

 

[451Mopar]

Yes. Full custom dash with speed hut gauges. using bulkhead connector.



Don't tape up the wires like I did here for mockup. most of that was removed because we kept adding and re-routing wires.

 

[451Mopar]

Ron Francis fuse block back side, how it was mounted.

 

[451Mopar]

This is on Alaska Mikes '69 Coronet.
The ron francis kit is pretty nice. all GXL type wire, I think mostly stock gauge wire 16 AWG for most of the circuits. The wires are labeled / marked but the colors are more generic, so wire colors not same as Mopar. The kit does not have the correct connector for the turn signal harness. They give you a ten socker Packard 56 type connector to replace the stock (Molex?) connector.
This cluster was all custom, and only original type switches were ignition key and light switch.
The rails above the fuse block have relays on them the for the hazard switch, and 3-speed wiper motor.
Wiring would have been easier if the stock wiper and hazard switches were used.

 

[Xp29h]

I am looking for a harness for my 71 Charger and have been looking at the RF Express system. They make a lot of claims about standing behind their product for life (troubleshooting and support) and seem to have a unique approach to wiring harnesses. I am just looking for any feedback (positive or negative) about them.

I used Ron Francis kit to rewire the entire 69. It was very complete and well done. The only thing I didn’t agree with on their kit it it stated use their schematic as things changed over the years. I ended up needing to use both old and new schematics to get the job done. Comparing systems as I installed the new. Other than that which really wasn’t a big deal it went very smooth.

 

[451Mopar]

Mikes car also has a Sniper EFI and a TCI 4L80E 6x 6-speed.
Rear tail lights were digi-lights led sequential lights.
I used the sending unit trunk plug to also route the fuel pump power.
So the rear harness had additional wires for fuel pump, extra ground, power for trunk light, optional power/switch for electric trunk lock, and accessory (like stereo amplifier.)
Front bulkhead wiring layout was slightly modified so all the front end light wiring and electric fan wiring.
This is for the '69 Coronet Bulkhead cavities:
Top connector:
A - A/C Compressor (original position)
B - Not used (originally Heater fan)
C - Washer pump (originally reverse light)
D - Brake warning light switch (originally power to reverse switch)
Note: Car is using TCI shifter, so reverse is on the shifter inside the car.
E, F, G, H - wires to wiper motor as original.

Leaving out center connector for now..

Lower connector:
S - Left turn signal as original
T - Cooling Fan Relay #1 (originally crank key power to Neutral safety switch, moved to cavity P)
U - Marker lights as original
V - Right turn signal as original
W- Cooling Fan Relay #2 (originally brake warning light, moved to cavity D)
X - Low Beam headlight as original
Y - High Beam lights as original
Z - Horn relay (Originally only used for dash reverse light with 4-speed manual.)

W -

 

[451Mopar]

The Center connector is much different.
First. No Amp gauge, and alternator power / battery power are connected through a battery bulkhead connector , not the original bulkhead connector.
Second. The sniper wiring is passed into the drivers compartment through a bulkhead gromet (not a connector.
Third. Wanting to keep engine wiring on the center connector it is mostly used for gauge sensors, and crank and neutral safety to starter switch.
The speed hut gauges use two and three connector sensors, so:
J - Temp Sensor ground (originally power in / fusible link to Ammeter)
K - Oil pressure ground (originally Oil pressure sender)
L - Oil pressure sensor signal (originally Horns, Moved to Z)
M - Oil temp +5 V power (originally Washer pump, Moved to W)
N - Switched Key On power as original, but not connected.
Note: Car uses one wire alternator. This would have gone to alternator and regulator.
P - Key Crank power to starter relay (originally Alternator output to Ammeter)
Q - Transmission NSS (originally cranking power to ignition coil)
R - Temperature sensor signal (originally Temp sending unit)