Anyone used this Lunati cam? And Single profile questions..

[68Satellite440]

I’ll apologize ahead of time because I know how cam selection questions is a beaten to death subject here but I wanted to see if anyone had experience with the Lunati Street Master 275/275 cam.
Lift is .477, would this be considered similar to the old street hemi grind?

I originally had interest in the dual profile Voodoo line to replace the original HP cam, but I have 1 7/8 long tube headers and my understanding is the extended exhaust lift is compensating for poor flowing manifolds.
But my overthinking is, if my headers give me good flow, then the extended exhaust lift is just costing me small compression and some low end torque?
My goal is a torquey cruiser,
I plan to keep 906 heads, undecided on upgrading to adjustable valvetrain, but trying to stay below .500 lift and make the most of what I have since my tight budget raising kids.

Am I onto something here or am I just spiraling?

Engine is ‘68 440HP
Original HP cam
3.55
Different TC is coming soon but not decided on stall, trans is getting rebuilt and builder requires new TC to warranty it. Whats a good replacement for factory TC?

 

[DanielSlocum]

yes its very close to the sreet hemi grind. the tight 108 lsa will give you a fairly rough idle and lower manifold vacuum.
duel pattern cam not necessary with headers. i like the comp 270 duration/.470 lift cam with 110 lsa for the street. duration at .050 is 224 on it.
idle is not too rough and low end torque is strong. i dont trust comp,lunati,or summit lifters though,and try to find new old stock lifters these strange days.

 

[68Satellite440]

yes its very close to the sreet hemi grind. the tight 108 lsa will give you a fairly rough idle and lower manifold vacuum.
duel pattern cam not necessary with headers. i like the comp 270 duration/.470 lift cam with 110 lsa for the street. duration at .050 is 224 on it.
idle is not too rough and low end torque is strong. i dont trust comp,lunati,or summit lifters though,and try to find new old stock lifters these strange days.

Well to repeat what i was told on here, only trust Hylift Johnson lifters. I dobt have any proof of that but that is one of the few quality companies left.

To be honest, I’m very leery of anything Comp. Ive read twice as many bad stories of flat cans by them than any other company.
Is only lifters to blame? Idk. I would hope a cam company would have enough QC to be checking taper on lobes.

 

[Budnicks]

org. MoPar 68-70 383/RR 335hp & 440/375hp cams, with 906 heads
are like 264*in/0.464" & 268*ex/0.468" gross valve lift

a camshaft with 275*/0.477" will give you a lil' bit of a bump
over a stock HP cam

I ran one of them 275*/0.477" Lunati's HFT,
in a mostly stock 68 440, a Torquer (or (?) TM7) intake
& 780cfm Holley vac sec./electric choke,
1-3/4" long tube headers, with a 727TF, RR converter
(don't think it was called a 'street master' back then)
way back in the late 70's, like 1977-ish
had a nice sound & a lil' bit more performance,
all of which maybe 30-35 added HP, for my daily driver
much/most of which was from the better intake,
way better carb & freer flowing headers/exhaust

if it helps
MoPar Performance
P4529316 284*/0.484"in (241* @ 0.050") 284*/0.475"ex gross valve lift
was the 1970-71 425hp inline 2x4bbl Street Hemi Hydraulic Falt Tappet camshaft
Ironically same specs for the
Solid lifter camshaft P4529315 but it had valve lash of 0.028"in/0.032"ex

a 284*/0.484" HFT (generic Hemi grind) cam is a just a bit more,
but very street-able too
makes good power for what it is, no crazy machine work needed
proven combo Racer Brown & Mopar performance/Direct Connection
have used them for years

the 292* duration/0.509" lift HFT purple shaft MoPar Performance/Direct Connection
a lil' more aggressive, makes a bit more power too
is about the limits without machine work, sounds great too
should have a lil' more stall speed, pref. like 3.91:1 gears,
you could get away with 3.55:1, it's not ideal
cam was an impressive performer, in mostly stock-ish engines too

in the neighborhood of 0.520" to 0.525"-ish 'gross valve lift'
(still have adequate clearances)
as to not have a clearance problem at full lift/with the retainers & locks
much more, on stock 906 heads, you will need to machine down
the top of the valve guides,
maybe pistons when you get into generics of about 0.540" GVL ranges,
depending on duration etc. or Piston to valve clearances

in either/any camshaft change
I'd highly suggest changing your springs, lifters,
and maybe the retainers & locks too
to match the cam
& actual checking for clearances/changing valve seals at a min
if everything else is in good order

good luck

 

[68Satellite440]

org. MoPar 68-70 383/RR 335hp & 440/375hp cams, with 906 heads
are like 264*in/0.464" & 268*ex/0.468" gross valve lift

a camshaft with 275*/0.477" will give you a lil' bit of a bump
over a stock HP cam

I ran one of them 275*/0.477" Lunati's HFT,
in a mostly stock 68 440, a Torquer (or (?) TM7) intake
& 780cfm Holley vac sec./electric choke,
1-3/4" long tube headers, with a 727TF, RR converter
(don't think it was called a 'street master' back then)
way back in the late 70's, like 1977-ish
had a nice sound & a lil' bit more performance,
all of which maybe 30-35 added HP, for my daily driver
much/most of which was from the better intake,
way better carb & freer flowing headers/exhaust

if it helps
MoPar Performance
P4529316 284*/0.484"in (241* @ 0.050") 284*/0.475"ex gross valve lift
was the 1970-71 425hp inline 2x4bbl Street Hemi Hydraulic Falt Tappet camshaft
Ironically same specs for the
Solid lifter camshaft P4529315 but it had valve lash of 0.028"in/0.032"ex

a 284*/0.484" HFT (generic Hemi grind) cam is a just a bit more,
but very street-able too
makes good power for what it is, no crazy machine work needed
proven combo Racer Brown & Mopar performance/Direct Connection
have used them for years

the 292* duration/0.509" lift HFT purple shaft MoPar Performance/Direct Connection
a lil' more aggressive, makes a bit more power too
is about the limits without machine work, sounds great too
should have a lil' more stall speed, pref. like 3.91:1 gears,
you could get away with 3.55:1, it's not ideal
cam was an impressive performer, in mostly stock-ish engines too

in the neighborhood of 0.520" to 0.525"-ish 'gross valve lift'
(still have adequate clearances)
as to not have a clearance problem at full lift/with the retainers & locks
much more, on stock 906 heads, you will need to machine down
the top of the valve guides,
maybe pistons when you get into generics of about 0.540" GVL ranges,
depending on duration etc. or Piston to valve clearances

in either/any camshaft change
I'd highly suggest changing your springs, lifters,
and maybe the retainers & locks too
to match the cam
& actual checking for clearances/changing valve seals at a min
if everything else is in good order

good luck

Thank you for taking the time to supply me with all that info. Ive heard good things about the 284/484, is it referred to as a 3/4 race cam?
Ive also heard good things about thing about the 292/509 cam but ive heard it is rather finicky and vacuum issues. Its also above .500 lift so i would need upgraded valve train and higher stall right?
everything Ive been able to read on here suggests to avoid MP cams due to them being low vacuum and very particular.
Avoid Comp cams due to QC issues and so many going flat.

The suggestion seem to be Lunati, hughes, bullet.
What would you suggest in my shoes if you just wanted to just warm up this HP engine? I wish I could afford to truly build this motor, but i dont have 3-5k to throw at it. Bummer.
So plan is to pull apart, check for wear, replace whatever parts, decide if block needs work or not, clean up ports, etc.

 

[Gunner1]

I went with an Isky 292 cam and lifters. Mild build. Flat tops, cnc stealths with upgraded springs and locks, rpm and a 750 Holley. Idles ok sounds sweet. Cam broke in well. 3k on it now.

 

[68Satellite440]

I went with an Isky 292 cam and lifters. Mild build. Flat tops, cnc stealths with upgraded springs and locks, rpm and a 750 Holley. Idles ok sounds sweet. Cam broke in well. 3k on it now.

I wish i had the budget to put aluminum heads on and the whole nine yards.
Im just having to trying to make small upgrades to bump up the power from the HP cam. Having trouble deciding..

 

[Geoff 2]

Your cam choice & thoughts are right on the money.

Go to the Isky Cams website, Tech info, about extra exh duration.

 

[68Satellite440]

Your cam choice & thoughts are right on the money.

Go to the Isky Cams website, Tech info, about extra exh duration.

I actually read that advice in another post and had already went and read it.
Would the 108 centerline cause a rougher idle and low vacuum?
Is there a similar cam with better qualities?

 

[69a100]

Is there a similar cam with better qualities?

I'd look at a split duration cam over what you're looking at, but that's just me. Why do you want to stay below .500 lift? I'd talk to Hughes and see what they have to say. Good Luck

 

[68Satellite440]

I'd look at a split duration cam over what you're looking at, but that's just me. Why do you want to stay below .500 lift? I'd talk to Hughes and see what they have to say. Good Luck

I still have the factory stamped rockers and I was advised to not go above .500 lift because they couldn’t handle that much lift without a pushrod getting shoved thru one sooner than later.
So ive been looking for a cam upgrade from the factory .450/.458 HP cam.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

As far as entry level torque converter Hughes has been ok for the buck. But you get what you pay for. A good quality convertor such as a Dynamic, PTC, FTI, etc... Honestly would transform your car more then a cam will.
A 440 magnum w 225/225 at .050 and 275/275 advertised isn't really big enough to have vacuum issues even if its icl is 108. It actually says 2000 stall and fair idle in the description.

I would not say exhaust flow is high flow on a 440 by just adding headers. The straight vs split cam I would say each have there place. But most modern assymetric grinds will run a split w two different shaped lobes on ex and intake. Straight duration cams used to be the same lobe on both int and exh. But, that really depends on how it's ground and doesn't speak for everything.

 

[68Satellite440]

As far as entry level torque converter Hughes has been ok for the buck. But you get what you pay for. A good quality convertor such as a Dynamic, PTC, FTI, etc... Honestly would transform your car more then a cam will.
A 440 magnum w 225/225 at .050 and 275/275 advertised isn't really big enough to have vacuum issues even if its icl is 108. It actually says 2000 stall and fair idle in the description.

I would not say exhaust flow is high flow on a 440 by just adding headers. The straight vs split cam I would say each have there place. But most modern assymetric grinds will run a split w two different shaped lobes on ex and intake. Straight duration cams used to be the same lobe on both int and exh. But, that really depends on how it's ground and doesn't speak for everything.

So is the extra exhaust lift really necessary or does it cost some low end torque?
Ive also looked at the 284/484 but I’ve heard mixed reviews. Some love and some hate.
I’m currently on the wait list for the trans shop, reverse gear is gone, just have 1-3 gear. He quoted $1500 to rebuild including a converter similar to the factory stall. Which my understanding is 1800ish?
So selecting something else is still open idea, but I don’t understand converters, I’m still in the learning curve.

If you have any advice please advise me.
I haven’t been all that impressed with the 268/284 .450/.458 HP cam.
I figured a step up was necessary. I haven’t ran it down the track but it doesn’t seem like a rocket compared to other cars ive rode in. Maybe a 14 second car? I feel like my Ram could out run it.
A engine teardown is up next after the trans shop. Mileage on this motor is unknown, it was taken from a wrecked car. I expect wear throughout the engine, trans wasn’t taken care of, so I expect cam/lifters could be worn and need replaced so I wanted to have a plan together. Other than that, just plan to clean, seals, paint.

What is your opinion? Or suggestions?

 

[Geoff 2]

I see this advice all the time: Call Hughes or call Howards. Do you guys think they have tested all these cam combinations to see which is best. Does Howard [ or Isky or Comp or..... ] have a bank of all the popular engines available for dyno testing? To compare how their new 390 Ford cam compares in a 389 Pontiac or 383 Chrys? I don't think so....

Somebody's opinion I DO trust is D.Vizard, author of 30+ auto books & countless magazine articles. He tested 19000+ cams, mostly when contracted to Crane cams......for cam testing. One result was the famous 128 rule.
He also says this: if you want a smoother idle do NOT widen the LSA, but reduce the duration....

68Sat, if you want a smoother idle, I would use the Isky 270 Mega. Notice also that the majority of Isky cams are single pattern...Additional exh duration worsens the idle & reduces vacuum...

 

[Curiousyellow71]

So is the extra exhaust lift really necessary or does it cost some low end torque?
Ive also looked at the 284/484 but I’ve heard mixed reviews. Some love and some hate.
I’m currently on the wait list for the trans shop, reverse gear is gone, just have 1-3 gear. He quoted $1500 to rebuild including a converter similar to the factory stall. Which my understanding is 1800ish?
So selecting something else is still open idea, but I don’t understand converters, I’m still in the learning curve.

If you have any advice please advise me.
I haven’t been all that impressed with the 268/284 .450/.458 HP cam.
I figured a step up was necessary. I haven’t ran it down the track but it doesn’t seem like a rocket compared to other cars ive rode in. Maybe a 14 second car? I feel like my Ram could out run it.
A engine teardown is up next after the trans shop. Mileage on this motor is unknown, it was taken from a wrecked car. I expect wear throughout the engine, trans wasn’t taken care of, so I expect cam/lifters could be worn and need replaced so I wanted to have a plan together. Other than that, just plan to clean, seals, paint.

What is your opinion? Or suggestions?

A good convertor builder can set it up for specific for your car. A modern custom convertor can be built tight so the car moves down the highway at 1800 like a factory convertor but when you put power to it it flashes at a much higher rpm. So you get the best of both, car cruises like a stock convertor but leaves like a race car under full power. For example our Dynamic 9 1/2 was built custom for our car...it drives around like a 2200 stall...when you floor it launches at 4300. . But,$ is 300-500 more money then stock convertor. Ptc is probably the most reasonable price. Dynamic I certainly recommend. 9 1/2 is a great size, 10" they can do as well.
There was a engine master episide called "the split decision" I would recomend watching if you have access to it. Exhaust lift does not hurt torque down low, but extra Duration can. Not always though, it didnt hurt much low end in their test but was better everywhere else.

I would not recommend any of the mopar performance stuff anymore. It is expensive for what is and not 1990 anymore. Budnicks nailed it above.
Nothing wrong with any of the cams mentioned. Bottom end torque I like the mopar specific cams like voodoo 702. Preferably run it w old stock lifters or hylifts Johnsons and new valve springs. It is a fast rate cam which helps torque but noisier and more potential for cam issues. The generic 280 .48/.48 230/230 is made in a version by a lot of companies. It's pretty mild mannered and does ok in a 440 magnum. In a stockish engine there is going to be diminished gains getting bigger then that.
Are you keeping with the old valve springs?If you are better verify what it has before you get a cam.

 

[68Satellite440]

A good convertor builder can set it up for specific for your car. A modern custom convertor can be built tight so the car moves down the highway at 1800 like a factory convertor but when you put power to it it flashes at a much higher rpm. So you get the best of both, car cruises like a stock convertor but leaves like a race car under full power. For example our Dynamic 9 1/2 was built custom for our car...it drives around like a 2200 stall...when you floor it launches at 4300. . But,$ is 300-500 more money then stock convertor. Ptc is probably the most reasonable price. Dynamic I certainly recommend. 9 1/2 is a great size, 10" they can do as well.
There was a engine master episide called "the split decision" I would recomend watching if you have access to it. Exhaust lift does not hurt torque down low, but extra Duration can. Not always though, it didnt hurt much low end in their test but was better everywhere else.

I would not recommend any of the mopar performance stuff anymore. It is expensive for what is and not 1990 anymore. Budnicks nailed it above.
Nothing wrong with any of the cams mentioned. Bottom end torque I like the mopar specific cams like voodoo 702. Preferably run it w old stock lifters or hylifts Johnsons and new valve springs. It is a fast rate cam which helps torque but noisier and more potential for cam issues. The generic 280 .48/.48 230/230 is made in a version by a lot of companies. It's pretty mild mannered and does ok in a 440 magnum. In a stockish engine there is going to be diminished gains getting bigger then that.
Are you keeping with the old valve springs?If you are better verify what it has before you get a cam.

Correct me if im wrong, so a 1800ish converter can be tight for cruising but then per say I floor it, it allows the engine to jump up to or “flash?” To a higher rpm say 3500 before it applies the power?
Sorry, still translating and trying to understand converter language between “listed stall speed” and “flash stall”.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Stalls are usually rated at the flash rpm.

Your close to getting it. A convertor can be made tight or loose.

Basically our Dynamic 9 1/2" would be called a 4300 stall because it flashes at 4300.
But it's tight at the lower speeds when your cruising it drives like a 2200 stall.

We also have a 5500 stall. It is "loose"
The car doesn't start moving until 4000 rpm, flashes at 5500.
Pretty much worthless street driving. It gets so hot it cooks itself. Meant for drag racing.

We are mostly talking custom convertors here. You can order one and guess. But it's best to get it built for your car.
They take your car information such as weight hp and gearing and set the convertor up to get the performance your looking for. At least within the convertors abilities.

 

[Geoff 2]

All of these 'stall' numbers are.....estimates. The more tq the engine makes, the higher the stall speed.
A c'ter may stall at 2400 rpm behind a 340, same c'ter stalls at 2600 behind a 440....

This is the note in the B&M catalog on cter selection: ' Stall speeds are based on the engine producing 230 ft/lbs of tq @ 2500 rpm. Similar to average small block.'

 

[68Satellite440]

Stalls are usually rated at the flash rpm.

Your close to getting it. A convertor can be made tight or loose.

Basically our Dynamic 9 1/2" would be called a 4300 stall because it flashes at 4300.
But it's tight at the lower speeds when your cruising it drives like a 2200 stall.

We also have a 5500 stall. It is "loose"
The car doesn't start moving until 4000 rpm, flashes at 5500.
Pretty much worthless street driving. It gets so hot it cooks itself. Meant for drag racing.

We are mostly talking custom convertors here. You can order one and guess. But it's best to get it built for your car.
They take your car information such as weight hp and gearing and set the convertor up to get the performance your looking for. At least within the convertors abilities.

Im looking at the Hughes street rod 24-20 or 24-25.
Difference is 2000 or 2500 stall.
I sent them a email but my research sags they’re slow to reply.

Which one of these would be more applicable for my current setup?
2500 could be too much and be a slug right?

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Depends on your what gearing and rear tires your running. I don't think you have mentioned either?

The hughes convertors are set up pretty loose, like most the over the counter ones ie... summit, B&m, tci, etc. They are NOT like the custom ones I mentioned. But... They are a upgrade over stock. Decent entry level.

The 24-25 stall works pretty well on most stuff...it is around 2500 and the one we have used. It is a decent converter for most street applications.
IMO...the 24-20 is just a stock replacement, and not one I would purchase.

And yes. I have never heard anything good about Hughes tech support. Geoff 2 is correct. Stall speeds are estimates.