anyone want a 505 stroker before i throw it in the bin

[benno440]

getting so f**ed off with the tuning of this motor.

tell you what I have done so far.

first off it was too rich and fouling plugs so I tried the .83 jets in the dual quad edelbrocks and the smaller blue spring, fixed the overfueling problem.

changed to the black bushing and 1 silver soft spring in the msd dizzy.

tried 20* initial, hard start on the starter motor and ran alright but overran big time at shutoff.
tried 10* hard to start, no power at all, and overran, so I checked for vac leaks found and fixed.
tried 17* starts awesome, little loss of power and still overruns, then I noticed some ticky lifters so I adjusted and noticed a couple of lifters are bottoming out which gets me thinking some lifters have failed.

hydraulic cam, comp cam roller rockers, msd 6 al and pro billet dizzy, dual quad 500cfm edelbrocks.

don't know what to do next

 

[Kern Dog]

I don't know if you have read any of my threads describing the troubles that I have had with my car, but I feel for you, man...
You spend a boatload of cash on a big inch engine and it runs like crap. In my case, I just threw stuff together and hoped that it would work. Over the last few years, I've learned more about what works and what does not. I'm still learning every day. These forums are a big help.
One thing I can tell from your description is that the engine continues to run after you turn off the ignition? Here we call that "Run-on" or "Dieseling". I had the sam problem and cured it by switching to a "colder rated spark plug.
You will need to give more information of the engine to get the help you need.
The part # or specs of the cam.
The compression ratio.
My problem with my engine has centered around pinging/detonation. Ive received some great advice here on how to stop it.

 

[Ghosty]

What plugs (make/model/temp) did you switch to Greg? Any links to your problem thread(s), specifically the ping/det. problem? Thanks.

I feel for you Benno, but in highly modified cars, I guess it's something we never get use to. Not a day goes by that I don't wish I kept my Supra stock, talk about a $$$ blackhole!

 

[Meep-Meep]

Benno, running on is most likely caused by the primary throttle blades being open too much. How many turns of the idle speed screws from lightly seated?? The secondaries should be completely seated.

The lifter problem is curious and I would suggest going through the valves again. With the lifter on the base circle (follow the MoPar valve adjustment chart) and crank the rocker adjuster screw in one full turn.

 

[lewtot184]

if more people were truthful about their big strokers there would be a pattern of disappointment. big hydraulic cams don't work, high compression and pump gas doesn't work. i don't use MSD stuff because for the most part it's an unnecessary expense. i don't like the 500cfm edelbrocks. the primary booster is probably way too sensitive for a big motor. they belong on /6's and 318's. sorry for the rant. all's not lost but it will take a change in direction.

 

[snakeoil24]

Lewtot I agree with you regarding the carb situation. As far as MSD systems I dont. Their product is better. Considering that current Mopar distributors are not what we knew for years.

 

[99ss]

if more people were truthful about their big strokers there would be a pattern of disappointment. big hydraulic cams don't work, high compression and pump gas doesn't work. i don't use MSD stuff because for the most part it's an unnecessary expense. i don't like the 500cfm edelbrocks. the primary booster is probably way too sensitive for a big motor. they belong on /6's and 318's. sorry for the rant. all's not lost but it will take a change in direction.

Actually there is a host of variables here... I run a semi big hydraulic cam in a high compression pump gas engine and have no issues.. admittedly its not a mopar but an engine is an engine is an engine..

I cant comment on bennos troubles... I'm not an engine guru and don't know a thing about 440's.. or I would help him out best I can..

My only advice for him would be to take a few steps back and some time off from it and then re-approach.

Maybe even from scratch from the cam on out.
start with the specs of the cam and then look at all the variables that go along with the timing .. from Pushrod length to the dist.... trouble shooting is an art form...LOL

 

[benno440]

Benno, running on is most likely caused by the primary throttle blades being open too much. How many turns of the idle speed screws from lightly seated?? The secondaries should be completely seated.

The lifter problem is curious and I would suggest going through the valves again. With the lifter on the base circle (follow the MoPar valve adjustment chart) and crank the rocker adjuster screw in one full turn.

throttlr blades are 100%closed I checked with brass feeler gauges, they are 1/2 turn in to get 900rpm

- - - Updated - - -

I don't know if you have read any of my threads describing the troubles that I have had with my car, but I feel for you, man...
You spend a boatload of cash on a big inch engine and it runs like crap. In my case, I just threw stuff together and hoped that it would work. Over the last few years, I've learned more about what works and what does not. I'm still learning every day. These forums are a big help.
One thing I can tell from your description is that the engine continues to run after you turn off the ignition? Here we call that "Run-on" or "Dieseling". I had the sam problem and cured it by switching to a "colder rated spark plug.
You will need to give more information of the engine to get the help you need.
The part # or specs of the cam.
The compression ratio.
My problem with my engine has centered around pinging/detonation. Ive received some great advice here on how to stop it.

this my cam
•Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 300/305
•Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 250/255
•Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .540/.540
•LSA/ICL: 108/104
•Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
•RPM Range: 3000-6800


comp is at 9.8:1, never had pinging no matter how high I have timing and running 98 octane which I think is your 95 equivalent

- - - Updated - - -

Benno, running on is most likely caused by the primary throttle blades being open too much. How many turns of the idle speed screws from lightly seated?? The secondaries should be completely seated.

The lifter problem is curious and I would suggest going through the valves again. With the lifter on the base circle (follow the MoPar valve adjustment chart) and crank the rocker adjuster screw in one full turn.

meep I thought it was half a turn, I will try 1 full turn

 

[lewtot184]

Lewtot I agree with you regarding the carb situation. As far as MSD systems I dont. Their product is better. Considering that current Mopar distributors are not what we knew for years.

i have no problem with MSD quality (although i do think the 6a analog boxes are outdated). i just don't think they're a necessary option.

 

[99ss]

Don't you want a bigger split from intake to exhaust on the duration? and a 108 lsa isn't going to be smooth .. kind of radical isn't it?

again... I come from a different platform.. my cam in my stroker is a 247/262 115 + 3 @.50

 

[benno440]

no idea mate, it is what was recommended to me for what I wanted.
I don't know where to go from here?

- - - Updated - - -

i have no problem with MSD quality (although i do think the 6a analog boxes are outdated). i just don't think they're a necessary option.

lewtot, the 6al box was on the car when I bought it only thing I changed was the dizzy and leads, I didn't know any better

 

[Kern Dog]

The instructions with my Edelbrock heads suggested using a Champion RC12YC plug. I did, but the dieseling was terrible. I wanted to use a plug 2 ranges colder, but 10s were not to be found. I use RC9YCs. It stopped the run-on completely!

 

[Northwest]

Benno,

I have a 512 stroker. My cam seems similar:

Duration @ .50: 251/257
LIft: .564

I had some issues with it when running timing of 17 degrees or so with 34 total. I had gotten some good advice and had a distributor built with 26 initial, then 8 mechanical for 34 total that comes in at 3200.

I was told that with that kind of duration you need a lot of advance otherwise your mix is igniting onthe way out of the chamber, burning up in the exhaust. Engine will run way to hot, and have no power. Something to look into.

Purrs like a kitten and idles at 750 rpm. No starting problems.

Give these guys a call: http://www.4secondsflat.com. He built the distributor I have.

 

[Propwash]

My 512 ran real smooth on the Dyno with 22 initial and 35 total. You sure that the obviously low vacuum of that big stroker motor is not wreaking havoc with the metering rods/springs in those eddy carbs?

 

[Photon440]

Yes please, benno440. I'll take your stroker before it goes in the bin. What's the shipping to Canada?

 

[kiwigtx]

Hey benno440, if you need some quality MoPar engine advice, let me know....we have a real guru here in Auckland who loves MoPars....has built a few strokers and race engines. I'm sure he would be happy to look at your specs - engine components and accessories, and make some good suggestions for you....before you bin that block.

 

[benno440]

kiwigtx ill take any advice I can get mate, let me know please.

I have tried running 20* and the starter motor doesn't like it it makes big clunking noises that high and it is a hi torque mini starter ( powermaster xs torque) maybe need a better starter

 

[kiwigtx]

kiwigtx ill take any advice I can get mate, let me know please.

I have tried running 20* and the starter motor doesn't like it it makes big clunking noises that high and it is a hi torque mini starter ( powermaster xs torque) maybe need a better starter

PM coming

 

[thomas93254]

Just an opinion here but I would ditch that Edelbrock carb and get a Holley or Summit equivalent. I have had nothing but problems with the Edelbrock carbs including the "Run On" issue on several Ford and GM cars. I know they are not Mopar but they are all air pumps in the end

Thomas

 

[WileERobby]

get rid of the dual carb setup, then start from there. there is no reason to have it.