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At what point do you feel the a stock brake setup is not enough ??

Canadian1968

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Just curious as to when/ if guys start up grading the braking system for the strip? Or just in general ?

What would you guys say is limit or you start throwing in the towel for a stock brake system on a Bbody. I have a 68 charger with a stock R/T Bendix system ( front disc rear drum) . The car is currently running high 12s @ 104-106 . I do not have any problem stopping by the end of the track, this is more discussion , interest. I know there will be track rules at some point that require a chute, but honestly don't know when that is.

Not sure if anyone watches Cleetus Mcfarlen on You tube, but watched him do a run in a 6 sec car 200+ Pass when both of the chutes failed and he still stopped it on the equipped braking system
 
After being cut off on the way to a car show, jumping on the brakes and the back of the car tried to swap ends with the front of the car. That was a pretty good indication that the brakes weren't good enough.
I upgraded to a power disc conversion kit from Right Stuff. That worked until recently when I didn't have enough vacuum to run the booster (new engine). Now I'm upgrading again to a hydroboost system.
 
NHRA requires a chute @ 9.99ET OR 135 MPH Trap Speed.
A Roll Bar is required @ 11.49ET on any car modifed from OEM
(Excludes Hellcat and my Z06 and similiar car if STOCK)
I generally put aftermarket ft. Discs on @ 10 Sec and 4 Wheel
Discs @ 9 Sec.

This is Drag Racing cars only driven to the track and back and maybe a
car show now and them. Now if you had the stock 9" A body drums that
is a different story!
 
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I'm running low elevens on ten inch drums all around, and a single pot.





I probably ought to do something about that......
 
I'm running low elevens on ten inch drums all around, and a single pot.





I probably ought to do something about that......
Same but I wimped out and went to a dual pot.:eek:
 
NHRA requires a chute @ 9.99ET OR 135 MPH Trap Speed.
A Roll Bar is required @ 11.49ET on any car modifed from OEM
(Excludes Hellcat and my Z06 and similiar car if STOCK)
I generally put aftermarket ft. Discs on @ 10 Sec and 4 Wheel
Discs @ 9 Sec.

This is Drag Racing cars only driven to the track and back and maybe a
car show now and them. Now if you had the stock 9" A body drums that
is a different story!
Great information @GTX JOHN it's been many decades since I've looked at a rule book. Thanks
 
"At what point do you feel the stock brake setup is not enough ??"
Right before the very first time ever that I'm going to drive it down the street...:lol:

EDIT: Of course, I joke here - but I've always liked the stock 11" HD drum
setups a lot of these musclecars came with - when they're in good shape.
 
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Fwiw I've stopped from 112mph with 10" drums at Union Grove, which isn't the longest shutdown
 
After being cut off on the way to a car show, jumping on the brakes and the back of the car tried to swap ends with the front of the car. That was a pretty good indication that the brakes weren't good enough.
I upgraded to a power disc conversion kit from Right Stuff. That worked until recently when I didn't have enough vacuum to run the booster (new engine). Now I'm upgrading again to a hydroboost system.
please excuse my ignorance here. Were you running a front disc/rear drum manual braking system? Are you using the 7/8, or 15/16 rear drum brake cylinders?, prop valve?
 
I had a 71 Nova with a 550 hp small block. Had the stock disc/drum setup. 9 inch rear tires and skinny’s up front. I had to make an emergency stop. Those stock brakes locked up and slid those skinny tires right thru the intersection. Killer brakes are useless if there’s not enough rubber on the ground to not slide. I run regular street tires up front now.
 
Im at 11.0’s and 120 on a stock drum setup. I put a newer aluminum master cylinder on it, and I do keep the drums in good repair. I realize I probably should put a disc setup on it, but really, It stops pretty good and straight, and I’ve never had an issue. The track I race at has a pretty long runout though.
 
Is there much advantage to rear disc brakes?
 
With my '65 Coronet, I initially upgraded the OEM 10" drum F/R to the big HD 11" brakes. Later in an effort to reduce car weight, switched back to 10" drums. I looked at the drums and shoes at least a couple times a year. Usually a quick scuff up of the shoes was all that was needed. I ran really cheap shoes, since they were softer not expected for long life. My Coronet was a drag only car. It was a high 11 to 10.50 car depending on the motor & weight. The weight varied from 3675 to 3550 with me depending on the year. The 10" worked very well. Only the very shortest shut downs were any concern.
My tube Arrow had 4 wheel Lamb discs. No chute, 9.30@147. No problem. Of course it was 2350#.
 
Racing and daily would be two different things in my eyes. Drum brakes are like having an anchor! Disc are great but ask to much and there gone . Ask to much out of a drum and they blow apart and basiclly 9/10 times lock the wheel up too so in the end they did there job!

Some will disagree I like disc on more sperated driving drums won't keep up !
All honesty I don't like factory Mopar disc brakes I don't trust them seen a bunch fail !
I ordered wilwood 6 piston fronts 4 big piston rears for my build was $$$$$$$ but we'll worth it ! Trying to stop a big b body with a 440 4 speed just seemed smart again drums would work but on the touch and go traffic they will leave something to be wanted !

You'll know when you need more woooaaa for your go ! A little poop comes out just before you find the ditch !
 
I agree. A huge difference between street driving and the drag strip. Street is unpredictable, track is very predictable. The big aftermarket brakes will be a bunch better, but plenty of $$$$.
For a bracket racer you need to learn not to "hit" the brakes at the line, ease into them.
 
great discussion guys.... always interesting to hear difference experience and opinions !
 
Street/strip 3800lb '69RR has been 130mph in the 1/4 on stock 11" drums, (good condition), no issues. We do have a long run off@SPR though and as said above its how you use them.
 
please excuse my ignorance here. Were you running a front disc/rear drum manual braking system? Are you using the 7/8, or 15/16 rear drum brake cylinders?, prop valve?

At the time I was running power discs/drums out of a 79 Volare. The proportioning valve was bad and was putting too much pressure to the rear drums.
 
How much are you going to gain by going to aftermarket setup? You have 4 piston calipers, saving weigh is the only plus. I think it would be a lot of money for a small gain. Listen to guys who are still running drums, you have a good system. MO.
 
I do believe in NHRA et racing youcan go 150 mph before needing a chute, and as for brakes it depends a lot on the track and shutdown area we have one track here that is so long you hardly need any brakes and other ones you need a lot of brake on. IMO
 
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