Axel removal 1962 Dart

[pgbarrow]

Hi all,

I'm very new to this and while I do have a book it's kind of a bunch of gobbledygook at this point to me. I've found a good video on removing the brake, but it misses the part where you remove the hub? (The plate the lugs for the lug nuts are pressed into) from the axel. Does this just pull off with a puller tool? I have everything hooked up to a puller now, but want to make sure I'm on the right path before cranking on this. Parts are hard to come by.

Paul

 

[peabodyracin]

If you're just working on the brakes there's no need to remove the hub. You've got the right setup to pull the hub, just be sure you removed the castle nut from the end of the axle first! Sometimes you need some heat to get the tapered axle to release the hub. If you want to pull the axle, there should be nuts on the back side (inside) of the backing plate around the axle housing which you have to remove.
No need to remove the hub just to pull the axle. In fact it comes in handy as you put the brake drum on backwards and just start 3 lug nuts. Then slide the drum back and forth, acting as something of a hammer, pulling out as hard as you can. That will free the axle from the housing.

The only down side to that approach is the backing plate will then have to come off with the axle, even though it's loose. You'll have to disconnect the brake line and e-brake cable in order to fully remove the backing plate. If you pulled the hub first, you could just remove the brake line and move the backing plate out of the way with the e-brake still attached.

Hope that makes sense.

 

[pgbarrow]

Thanks PBR,

My goal is to replace the oil seal in the back, repack the bearings, the replace the brake shoes, components and drum. I am doing this as I have some sort to squeek when I hit the brakes and the guy I bought it from suggested I replace the axel seal. I saw one guy who did the backwards drum thing as you stated. I will try and pull the hub as I want to replace the brake components and the beat vidieo I've see has had the guy do that.

Paul

 

[peabodyracin]

Great idea to pack the axle bearings. They tend to be neglected. From the photo you posted things look pretty dry in there. Usually if the seal is going bad you'll have rear end grease leaking into the brake assembly and the brakes tend to get very touchy. It seems like a few guys have posted on here about having trouble finding the inner seal at a parts store. I'd done my 62 a few years back and didn't have any trouble at all finding the right seal. It seems like I'd saved the seal box for the part number, so if you have difficulty I can probably find the number I had gotten.

Lots more expertise on this forum than I can hope to offer, so if you run into anything else post up and chances are very good you'll find the answer(s).

Oh, and we all love pictures. So show us your 62 please.

 

[pgbarrow]

Got you PBR,

When I bought the car the guy included a set of seals so I'm good to go. I haven't seen anything leaking, but as the other side was done I figured I'd do this one. I've got a 3/4" breaker bar on this thing and it hasn't budged. I haven't done anything except put the puller on and start cranking, am I missing something (I did remove the castle nut)? And yes, that is a tan camo paint scheme (prior to me owning it). I'll repaint eventually, but at the moment it turns a few heads.

Paul

 

[Dipstick]

You've got the right setup to pull the hub, just be sure you removed the castle nut from the end of the axle first!

I prefer to leave the nut on a few threads, this prevents the hub and puller from flying off when the tension is relieved. On really tight hubs that won't come off when you've tightened the puller as much as you can, a quick rap on the end of the puller with a BFH will usually do the trick.

 

[pgbarrow]

So I've gotten to this point and I am assuming that is the original seal. It looks in pretty good shape, the rubber is intact and is still pliable. Do you guys think I should still replace it with this national I have? Also, any recommendations to pulling it out? I do have a slide hammer.

Paul

 

[pgbarrow]

How does this key move? I've put so much pressure on this thing I've wallowed out that end hole two times as large as I started.

Paul

 

[khryslerkid]

Hey YouTube Lover, haven't we met before?

I didn't know you didn't have the hub removed when you asked about the key. Looks like the key has been hammered on but that shouldn't make it impossible to still remove the hub.

You should leave the nut on the threaded part of the axle when using the puller. That will keep it from mushrooming out. Looks like you might have to file what has been mushroomed to make it flat again, use a thread file or die to get the threads in shape so the nut can be installed once again. The puller needs a pivot on the end to keep it from doing this again.

You might be able to remove the shoes in order to get to the bolts/nuts that hold the backing plate to the housing. Remove the axel, bearing, backing plate and all and work on getting the threads straightened out. Maybe even a machine shop could help if you want to save the axle.

Someone has already converted that hub so the drum can be removed without pulling the whole hub. Originally the drum and hub was one piece using swedged studs to hold the two together.

Good luck