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Axle leaking

Hamid

The queen of the 60's Mopar
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Since I bought my 66 Belvedere II, V8-237 last March 2017, I have change the rear axle oil seal twice, still leaking.
The first time I replaced the whole axle seals and bearings as a kit, but when the axle leaked, I replaced the inner seals only for both sides, no help.
I can not figure what is really wrong, I've got new inner seals but would like to know what should I check, inspect. I appreciate all your help and ideas sharing.
 
Did you use the proper seal installer/tool and install the seal to the correct depth? I'm assuming we are talking 8 3/4 axle here. Were the seals lubed and bearings repacked? Axle shaft end play set correctly?
Mike
 
Too much end play ? I've also had one of the springs pop out from behind the lip of an axle seal when driving it in. Now I put a coat of wheel bearing grease on the inside so that doesn't happen again !
 
You converted the outer bearings to the 'green' bearing or are they tapered? If they are the grease packed type, make sure that grease is not breaking down making you think you have a gear oil leak.

Also, make sure there are no grooves in the axle where the seal rides.
 
Make sure the vent is open. Could build up pressure in the housing on a long trip and push lube out the seals.
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Just screw it out of the "T" block
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Also when installing the axles, try your best to keep the weight of the axle off of the new seal.
 
What did the axle surface where the seal rides look like? If you can catch a fingernail in the surface it needs to be cleaned up otherwise it will never seal right.
Also lube the seal before install.
 
SEE POSTS ABOVE FOR SOME VERY GOOD ADVICE. If you greased the OUTER axle seals & those are in good shape AND your axle side play is adjusted correctly AND the surface of the axle looks good in the seal area.....there is a "chance" you have a bent axle..... but try all these other things first.
 
Thanks for your replies,,,,,,,,
493 Mike: I used a wide big socket to place the seal in place, I gently hammered on the socket till seal stopped. I covered the outer seal area with some good sealant. Yes I have the 8 3/4 type axle. Bearings were new kit, I don't see they were installed wrong, every thing looks and fit good. The end play is adjusted.
69L: the bearings are tapered, I did not do any conversion. There are no grooves where the seal rides, but when I will put the new seals I will check it.
Krysler: well I have seen that vent, but didn't think it is for that purpose but I will remove it and clean it.
Treewood: As 69L mentioned I will see if there is any irregularities in the surface. I might post some pic's of the axles( I had the rear RH axle bearing damaged) drove the car nearly 10 miles before I stopped and check it. The bearing housing found broken and roller bearings came out and totally smashed.
 
( I had the rear RH axle bearing damaged) drove the car nearly 10 miles before I stopped and check it. The bearing housing found broken and roller bearings came out and totally smashed.

I'm wondering if there is some metal contamination. Look at the seals when you remove them for scaring. Attach a rag on a wire and swab the housing's tube and inspect for metal particles.
 
I have seen that vent, but didn't think it is for that purpose but I will remove it and clean it.
Housing vent...hint...unless it's nasty, and just needs to be cleaned, to 'clear' the vent, just twist the cap on the top. That usually clears it.
 
miller: I did not see your post else I would twist the cap.
What I did is: I removed the vent bolt, pressure fuel cleaned it, pressure air blowed it, the cap is spring loaded open, and is lke a check valve, dont let air in just out.
Filled the deferential with grade 90 oil, drove the car for 27 miles, still leaking at both sides.
Now I need an instructions what to do next?
 
How much fluid did you put in?
Do you have the shim, backing plate, foam seal then axle installed in that order?
 
I filled it up to the neck and let it dripping till it stopped, the I put the plug in.
I cannot member the sequence of installation, but I am sure it is all in order, I use a copy of the parts book usually when installing parts.
 
I think you should measure how far the seal is in from the end of the housing, and check it against the axle. On the last one I did, tapping it in untill it stopped was too far in, and it would miss the seal surface on the axle. I made a special tool that kept the seal square and inserted it the correct distance. The factory tool is similar.
 
Great, but how do I know the exact distance.
 
PULL the axle. Then push the bearing retainer and outer race tight on to the bearing, by hand. Slide the new seal onto the axle so that it sits in a nice spot on the seal surface. Not too close to either end. Measure the distance from the seal retainer flange to the outside face of the seal. It is important that the seal is fairly square to the axle when doing this. That dimension is how far the seal should be driven into the housing ,measured from the outside of the backing plate where the retainer bolts on. Hope this makes sense.
 
The seal lip is sure facing inward.
There is a gasket, and foam gasket, should I replace them or check the condition, use silicon or other type sealants.
 
The seal lip is sure facing inward.
There is a gasket, and foam gasket, should I replace them or check the condition, use silicon or other type sealants.
It sounds like the issue is axle lubricant getting past the seal so the outer gaskets and seals are not the base problem but, they should be serviceable.
Mike
 
If you have a new foam gasket, use it. You could also use some grease and gear oil high temp sealer. A small amount of sealer on the other gasket would not hurt. If the wheel bearings are saturated with gear oil, I would let them drip dry and then repack as best you can with a needle grease gun.
 
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