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b body torsion bar adjustment

rustymetal

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I have a 1968 coronet and looking at the car from the side it looks like the car has air shocks on the back, but it doesnt. I have been told that you can raise and lower the front end of the car by adjusting the front torsion bars. I am new to mopars and do not know anything about it. Can anyone tell me the proper way to do this? How much can I raise the front end? Will it complicate things when the time comes for a front end alignment? Any and all help with this will be much appreciated. Right now the car looks kind of cartuny, which when I was 17 years old probably would have looked cool to me, but I want to level car out or maybe give it a slight gasser look. Thanks, rustymetal
 
There is a bolt on the bottom of the lower control arm, righty tighty to raise it , lefty loosey to lower it. No dont get wild either way you go, cause it will affect the alignment if it is severe (higher, lower).

Some of the others will chime in and give you a more complete detail on the pro's and con's, but get it where you like and then get an alignment.
 
The full range can give you a good 1 to 2" of height change - more or less depending I guess. The higher you go the stiffer the suspension seems to get so keep that in mind.

Adjusting them can be a real workout if you do it with a ratchet. Also in between each adjustment make sure you work the front suspension up and down before checking measurements to settle the suspension in to the change.
 
...also, tell your alignment guy (if you can find a good one), that you set them there on purpose. Some shops will put them back to "factory" height before they do the alignment.
 
I'd be surprised if there is any shop out there that knows where they are supposed to be set at. Most don't even have the castor / camber specs for these old cars anymore.
 
First off, clean the adjusting bolts as best as you can and then soak them with penetrating oil. Depending on how long it's been since an adjustment was made depends on how much soaking they will need and based on where you live, they may not move at all. Has the front end ever been rebuilt? If so, they you may be in luck.

Second...DO NOT make any adjustments with the weight of the car on the suspension. Raise the car up at least to where the tires are about to get off the ground. Once you've made an adjustment, let the car down and roll it forward or backwards to setting the suspension and see if that's where you want it at.
 
Factory is: from bottom of lca torsion bar sleeve to bottom of lower ball joint, all measured to floor, 1 7/8" difference.
 
Second...DO NOT make any adjustments with the weight of the car on the suspension. Raise the car up at least to where the tires are about to get off the ground. [/QUOTE]

Why is this Cranky? Never heard that before. In fact I just looked in my shop manual and it says to adjust with the car on the ground.
 
Second...DO NOT make any adjustments with the weight of the car on the suspension. Raise the car up at least to where the tires are about to get off the ground.

Why is this Cranky? Never heard that before. In fact I just looked in my shop manual and it says to adjust with the car on the ground.
With the weight of the car off, a lot of the load is removed from the adjusters...makes it easier on the old arms too. I've done it both ways....it's easier but does consume more time to get it done and I've also broke a few screws when the weight was fully on them...
 
..then there's "jouncing"...pushing down on the front end (usually seperate operations for each side) and releasing several times, that helps the suspension settle back to a more natural stae after being unloaded.

Interestingly, most of my stuff is not too bad coming off. Looks like all original parts.

Of course, I've still got the T bar to do, and now that I've said something.....
 
..then there's "jouncing"...pushing down on the front end (usually seperate operations for each side) and releasing several times, that helps the suspension settle back to a more natural stae after being unloaded.

Interestingly, most of my stuff is not too bad coming off. Looks like all original parts.

Of course, I've still got the T bar to do, and now that I've said something.....
Rolling the car lets the suspension 'roll' into place better than jouncing it does. If you really want to make sure the suspension settles into place, drive it! :)
 
With the weight of the car off, a lot of the load is removed from the adjusters...makes it easier on the old arms too. I've done it both ways....it's easier but does consume more time to get it done and I've also broke a few screws when the weight was fully on them...

That I can see. Sometimes those things can really give you a work out if you don't have a platform lift. As much back and forth as I've had to do to get both sides adjusted the same raising it on a lift each time would take a lot of time though.
 
That I can see. Sometimes those things can really give you a work out if you don't have a platform lift. As much back and forth as I've had to do to get both sides adjusted the same raising it on a lift each time would take a lot of time though.
I just use a floor jack and place dead center of the K frame. If I'm worried about scratches on the K, I'll use a block of wood on the jack pad with a rag on it. I also have a rubber covered jack pad....
 
Agreed about driving- RAJOTFLOL. Rolling AND jouncing (on the floor, laughing out loud).
 
With the weight of the car off, a lot of the load is removed from the adjusters...makes it easier on the old arms too. I've done it both ways....it's easier but does consume more time to get it done and I've also broke a few screws when the weight was fully on them...

I just did this on my '68 satellite. I lowered the front end when I had my stock .088" torsion bars on and then a year later I rebuilt the front end with Hotchkis Upper control arms and new larger .092" torsion bars and I decided I wanted the front end raised a bit more towards level. The larger the torsion bars, the less you'll be able to drop the front end. (just letting you know for future reference)

I had my local frame shop adjust the ride height with the torsion bars after they welded in my new sway bar supports and I watched them do it. Just like Cranky said - they adjusted it with the weight off the front wheels, then lowered it onto the tires and rocked it back and forth, let me take a look, then repeated a few times until the look was the way I wanted. With a new adjustment they said after driving it will likely settle another 1/4" or so. After any torsion bar adjustment you really should do an alignment, especially if you don't pay attention to adjusting the left and right bars the same on each side. With aftermarket UCA's that are adjustable, you'll be able to dial in more + caster for better handling even if you drop the front end a bit. I currently have +2 degrees caster on each side, but I can go as high as +4.

As for things to watch out for - if you go too low, you loose the spring characteristic that the torsion bar gives you since it's moved too far in the lower control arm (by the way, these bars don't twist, they move in relation to the LCA as I've been told on this site). Also if you go too low, you will hit the bump stops on part of the suspension. It's good to leave 1/2" or more unless you plan on removing your bump stops. But you said you are raising the front, so shouldn't be an issue.

Just like anything, torsion bars can wear out too. Once you raise the front back up, you will notice a bit of improved support from the t-bars, but if you buy a new pair, especially if you upsize by one or two sizes, you'll notice a much better improvement. A good source for Mopar T-bars is Mancini Racing. I'm only 2 years into owning my mopar, but I've learned a lot in that time, mostly from the fine folks on this site!
 
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