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B R/B motor mounts. What brands do you suggest?

Kern Dog

Life is full of turns. Build your car to handle.
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I just went to Schumacher's site and it said that they are back but please be patient while they build there inventory. Poly-locs are out of stock.
They do have SB to BB conversion mounts which are really just BB brackets but they do include the insulators but 169.00 is kind of steep for just needing insulators.
 
Haven't let me down in 43 years !
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Poly mounts have a major design flaw, the opposing sides within the poly run up/down.

I've posted this before with pics.

This works ok when pulling on the mount from the top/bottom of the mount, but that's not reality.

Each side of the mount will slide past the other, causing the engine to twist on both mounts, and eventually sag on both sides.

I have a factory big block a-body, with a tunnel ram, and the driver's side mount is forward, and slightly different. The passenger side, same as a b-body mount, would sag and the engine would end up against the hood.

After much back and forth with Schumacher, proving both mounts were separating inside, had little visual outward damage except that they looked a little 'melted,' installing heat shields per their request, although the driver's side mount is miles from a header, multiple new mounts, taking measurements before and after, cutting them apart, them insisting I have Schumacher headers, which I did, they gave up stating they've never had this problem before. Imo, no one ever noticed.

I ended up drilling through both mounts and running a bolt through them. It worked for a few years, but now the passenger side is against the hood again and I'm putting rubber back in with a bolt through them, to both act as a torque strap on the driver's side, and to keep the mounts together.

I have no ill feelings towards Schumacher, they did everything they could, and during this process I wasn't convinced they manufactured the mounts anyway. Even with a pic of a mount cut in half on their website, they couldn't describe how they were put together and couldn't make a set with the internal 'locks' turned the other way.
In retrospect, that wouldn't really help, as there would eventually be internal metal to metal contact.

A friend with a b-body didn't believe me, until I showed him how his mounts looked 'melted' like my passenger mount, and had clearly slid internally.
 
The problem is finding new mounts that are the same thickness as the originals. Some are about half as thick. Kind of a crap shoot finding some.
 
Switch to spool type mounts. They will need adaption but, they can't come apart!
Mike
 
Poly mounts have a major design flaw, the opposing sides within the poly run up/down.

I've posted this before with pics.

This works ok when pulling on the mount from the top/bottom of the mount, but that's not reality.

Each side of the mount will slide past the other, causing the engine to twist on both mounts, and eventually sag on both sides.

I have a factory big block a-body, with a tunnel ram, and the driver's side mount is forward, and slightly different. The passenger side, same as a b-body mount, would sag and the engine would end up against the hood.

After much back and forth with Schumacher, proving both mounts were separating inside, had little visual outward damage except that they looked a little 'melted,' installing heat shields per their request, although the driver's side mount is miles from a header, multiple new mounts, taking measurements before and after, cutting them apart, them insisting I have Schumacher headers, which I did, they gave up stating they've never had this problem before. Imo, no one ever noticed.

I ended up drilling through both mounts and running a bolt through them. It worked for a few years, but now the passenger side is against the hood again and I'm putting rubber back in with a bolt through them, to both act as a torque strap on the driver's side, and to keep the mounts together.

I have no ill feelings towards Schumacher, they did everything they could, and during this process I wasn't convinced they manufactured the mounts anyway. Even with a pic of a mount cut in half on their website, they couldn't describe how they were put together and couldn't make a set with the internal 'locks' turned the other way.
In retrospect, that wouldn't really help, as there would eventually be internal metal to metal contact.

A friend with a b-body didn't believe me, until I showed him how his mounts looked 'melted' like my passenger mount, and had clearly slid internally.
I had kind of the same thing happen with a Schuemacher mount. The passenger side failed. Mike wanted the old one back to investigate and ended up thinking that heat caused the problem. Don't know if that is what actually happened or not, but he was really good about it. Gave me a new one in exchange. I ended up selling the set and went to solid mounts on all my cars. No problems with those coming apart, lol.
 
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I did the stock mounts with the bolt through about 3 months ago. So far it’s been good. I used Pioneer Auto Motive from Summit part number 602250. They were 11 bucks each
 
Don't use Anchor brand. Worst I have used.
I run a countersunk bolt through from the bottom to top and through the motor mount bracket with a locknut and leave room for about 0.01" clearance.
 
I'm using Mity Mounts on the Coronet.
 
Greg, do you have a torque strap for the left side? If no, might consider whipping one up.
 
No. My hood serves as a torque strap.
 
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