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Bad ballast ???

clazar

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1970 RR 440 + 6 Chrysler electronic ignition. Started the car yesterday to let it go thru some haet cycles. Afyter about 10 minutes, the car just shut off & would not restart. It was getting gas & probably no spark. Would that be a bad ballast or possibly regulator box ?? The next moring I tried to start it, and it fired right up.
 
Sounds like a bad ecu or pick up in the distributor. Typical gets hot and shuts off. What ecu and how many ohm ballast? I would say the ballast is good since it started the next day. If you have another ECU swap it out after the car dies and run it hot again.
 
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Coil failures are heat sensitive too. If the ecu/pickup don't pan out I would try a spare coil.

Edit: opps - Dragon Slayer was quicker on the keyboard.
 
For starters, for anyone to "remote control" a decent answer to your question, you need to tell us exactly
what all the components in your ignition are - coil, ballast, distributor, ECU.
Pics would help.
 
One time I had the same problem and upon further inspection, there was a butchered up connection where someone poorly spliced the wires off of the coil together to "repair" the harness. When the car got hot, it would just expand the wires apart enough to lose connection and shut down. Let it cool off... fire it right up and run again until it reached temperature. In my case, it was buried under a re-wrap of the harness so I had to dig before I found it.
 
My '64 Dodge was doing similar and turned out it was the ECU harness plug once hot got pliable and one female connector would sag off the ecu's male pin.... like throwing a wiener down a hallway..
 
My '64 Dodge was doing similar and turned out it was the ECU harness plug once hot got pliable and one female connector would sag off the ecu's male pin.... like throwing a wiener down a hallway..
Are you describing that the male pin lost its erection?
 
Sounds like a bad ecu or pick up in the distributor. Typical gets hot and shuts off. What ecu and how many ohm ballast? I would say the ballast is good since it started the next day. If you have another ECU swap it out after the car dies and run it hot again.
The car has the orange box ecu & black factory regulator with 2 pin ballast. All the wiring was replaced with M&H wiring a few years ago. Also the electronic distributor was replaced 8 years ago with Chrysler stuff. Also the coil was replaced along with all the other componets.
 
OK getting there. Was the orange box one of the newer ones or a older one. Newer ones pretty much come in a iconversion kit. Pic of it would be great. They have a high filure rate.
 
OK getting there. Was the orange box one of the newer ones or a older one. Newer ones pretty much come in a iconversion kit. Pic of it would be great. They have a high filure rate.
The orange box came out of a conversion kit about 8 years ago. Where can you get a good one ??
 
Double check the reluctor gap...
Should be 0.008" if too wide the ECU won't trigger...

Just my $0.02... :thumbsup:
 
I have some NORS boxes that are made with Real transistors. The OEM real orange boxes are around but not cheap. There is one on e bay right now for 200???
 
With the orange box, 2 pin ballast, std coil. What ohm 2 pin ballast should I be running ??
 
With the orange box, 2 pin ballast, std coil. What ohm 2 pin ballast should I be running ??
What do you mean by 2 pin? If you have the ECU that has 5 active pins, the double ballast was used. 5 ohm was for the ECU box. The coil was side was .5 ohms. If you have the later 4 pin ecu only a coil ballast at .5ohms normally.
 
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