Members see less ads - Click here to become a member for FREE
So looks like my “deal” of a 727 has an issue. Is the input shaft bad? Looks like something spun.
Maybe at one time, a bad/wrong converter was on it. If the outer splines look too worn, that shaft is easily replaced. You are planning on rebuilding the trans, right? If not, your asking for someone else's problems.
I wasn’t planning on it. How much does a rebuild cost? Can I replace the shaft without a rebuild? I assume you just remove the face plate?
Will the torque converter slide on?
How much? Depends on who builds it. No rebuild...that's your call, if it works okay, might last awhile. Or, sooner or later, it starts giving you problems. Sure, the shaft can be replaced itself. The 'face plate' is the pump cover. Look into a break-down, or overhaul book for the trans, to understand the parts in there. That splined shaft is the stationary half. If the splines measure fairly straight, no twist, it's probably okay. Just clean it up some.
input shaft looks fine but the stater is done i would replace that.
I'm assuming you are talking about the outer splines? That is the reaction shaft support. It splines to the inside of the sprag holding the stator in the converter. That portion of the sprag and the stator are both non-moving parts. Both the input shaft and the stator support are easily cleaned with a wire wheel when dissembled. I've personally never had a stator support with damaged splines, other areas yes, but not the splines. The factory spline machining is pretty rough. Doug http://www.aandatrans.com/Products/727-Modified-Front-Pump-Support-(1962-66)__22540.aspx
While you have the trans 'in your hands', at very least, positively replace both front and rear seals!!!
Didn’t come with one.
I don't see an issue with the splines.....
Obviously I’m new to transmissions. I meant the splines closest to the pump, not the center shaft.
Your wise enough to ask questions. Nothing wrong with that!
I don’t see anything wrong either. Wire brush and have at it.
Yeah, what they said. You could dress the splines with a small file for GP. On a side note, I pulled my 727 from a '68 440-equipped C-body, that came to the junkyard from impound. (I saw them bring it in...lucky timing!) Everything operated and rotated smoothly, it was clean on the inside so being on a budget I just threw a new pan and dipstick on it(with my aftermarket converter) and ran it, hard at times. It lasted about a year before the rear band snapped (in the driveway luckily). Point is, build it now or build it later...you never know when/where it's gonna break. Prices will vary...mine is upgraded to street hot-rod level, still has 'D' function, shifts snappier but not chirping tires or banging gears every time, cost me 7 bills for everything. Best advantage is we're starting with arguably the toughest transmission ever offered...the parts in it from the factory are more than adequate unless you plan on serious racing HP
Except 7 bills...though, if it has 'everything' you can shove in a 727, plus labor, maybe... Just to put some perspective into it, depending on what you want the piece to do, they can be had for much less. Maybe not typical, since I build my own, pretty much stock (don't need a bunch of trick parts for the street), total cost on mine was about $275, including the $100 dollars for the core itself! Tossed in a complete overhaul kit, good to go, and not worried about a dang thing. Having a trans shop build it, add labor.
$400 was the builder's labor, parts needed were $275. That was for the overhaul kit, new rear band, new rear support, also needed a new NSS and the transgo kit (not necessary for everyone of course) at builder's cost. All in all happy with the price, after reading and checking around I was bracing for a fatter bill..
Yeah, not bad. Labor will get ya every time. Get real tricky on the things, easy over $1000.
What can I check myself with trans on the ground? Fluid is red, got new front and rear seals, gear shifter seems to work well. Should I be able to spin the shaft while in neutral or other?
In neutral, it should turn, though from parts dragging, will take a little effort.
Pull the pan. Take a pic. At minimum I'd replace the filter , pan gasket, and front seal. Someone that knows these trans can pop the front half out and inspect the clutches, band, rings in about 15 minutes. Doug
Separate names with a comma.