Bench Bleeding m/c..

[5.7 hemi]

Is it really necessary to do so? Since air wants to rise into the m/c, and if you use the Pheonix System reverse bleeder, wouldn't the brakes be perfect? I gotta hear some thoughts on this, might get that tool.

 

[Flyboy1400]

You can 'bench bleed' in the car. Install the master, hook up the lines, then just bleed at the fittings into the master cylinder by cracking them loose after someone pumps up the pedal and holds it down. If you get good at it you can do with with virtually no fluid leakage, but definitely still put something there to catch the fluid so it doest contact any painted surface. Bleeding on an actual bench, in a vice, is unnecessary and not really a time efficient way of doing things IMHO. The idea behind 'bench bleeding' is about getting the air out of the bore, all those springs, pistons, and what-not tend to catch little bubbles of air.

Though I'm not familiar with the 'Phoenix system', i have used vacuum, manual, gravity and pressure bleeding effectively in the past.

 

[5.7 hemi]

The system Im talking about pushes the fluid up from the wheel cylinder or caliper, thru the lines, and into the master cylinder. I would rather push the fluid up, and get all air out the first time, then trying to vacum the fluid out. It was shown on gearz, and I thought that was awesome.

 

[condor74]

I have never installed a master cylinder with out bench bleeding it. It only takes 2 or 3 minutes to bench bleed it and keeps the mess out of your car. Not sure why you would want to change that.

 

[Revhendo]

I always bench bleed a master.

 

[wedge5]

I didn't bench bleed mine and my brakes work just fine. May have taken a little longer to bleed the brakes but I put new lines on also. Figured it was going to take awhile.

 

[Revhendo]

I didn't bench bleed mine and my brakes work just fine. May have taken a little longer to bleed the brakes but I put new lines on also. Figured it was going to take awhile.

Never said you couldn't. Just been doing this for a couple of days and seen too many times where a guy would chase a soft pedal only to go back and bleed the master and immediately get a good pedal. Just sayin. I gotta make a buck at doing this, so I follow the proceedures that work for me.

 

[5.7 hemi]

What I'm wanting to know is if you reverse bleeed the system, do you need to bench bleed the m/c?

 

[Meep-Meep]

Sometimes a master cyl likes to hold a lot of air and the best way to get rid if it is to cycle the piston - as in bench bleeding. I'm with Rev. Just loop the plastic tubes back into the reservoir and stroke it a few times then bleed the system. Job done.

 

[5.7 hemi]

I really did not want to bench bleed it, but looks like I'm gonna have to do it.

 

[Revhendo]

You can "bench" bleed it on the car also. Bolt the master to the firewall and/or booster, set your bleed lines up, and stroke the pedal a few times. I've also just blocked the ports off with line plugs and stroked the pedal until it was high and hard. Then you just hook your brake lines up and continue on. Only takes a couple of minutes and it could just save you time in the long run.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Bench bleeding the mc whether on or off the car is no biggie, just thought that reverse bleeding would eliminate having to do the mc since the fluid will go right into the piston and fill the mc. Not looking for the easy way out, just thought it was plausible to do it this way, actually I am.

 

[Revhendo]

In all likelyhood, reverse bleeding should do the job. But masters can have a sneaky way of trapping air. I'm no genius, but I think it gets caught up in the take-up ports. Trust me, I've seen all the amazing work you've done. I didn't mean to imply that you were looking for the easy way out. (That exit sign dun past you up miles ago. LOL).

 

[5.7 hemi]

Rev, you didn't say anything wrong, my mind is still wrapped around the idea of reverse bleeding, but I'm going to get a bleeder kit for the mc. I dont like doing the same work twice, although there are exceptions if ya catch my drift!

 

[Joe Mopar]

Zack did you get this problem resolved?

 

[scotts74birds]

I know, old thread. But at the factory, we applied a cap that completely sealed the master cylinder, [with the whole system connected and assembled!] we then applied vacuum for about 40 seconds. It then switched off the vacuum, and dispensed the required amount of brake fluid into the system. Brake system bled and filled. And this was while in a car-sized jig before it was even installed on the car!

 

[5.7 hemi]

Well according to one buddy of mine, the master is to big. So another buddy has a inch master that I'm gonna put on. Also the brake pedal rod is in the manual hole instead of the power hole, so I'll try the pedal rod/hole first, then if need be go change the master.

Now for the all important factor......my dad says they feel fine and to quit complaining. Sorry dad, they feel like **** and too touchy, besides, I should have to wear a point harness to drive around town to keep from going thru the windshield.

 

[5.7 hemi]

Finaly found out the problem with the brakes. I "DID NOT" install a residual valve in the rear brake line and according to the tech at WILWOOD, I need a 10lb valve. He said everything else I have is just fine, and when I install the valve, the pedal will be firm. So I'm gonna order one and put it asap.

 

[Revhendo]

Disc/drum combo? What are you using for a proportioning valve?

 

[5.7 hemi]

Disc/drum, power brakes wilwood mc and wilwood adjustable proportioning valve.