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Bench Bleeding M/C?

Habib

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What is the best way to bench bleed the master cylinder? I see a lot of people do it out of the car with a bench vise but can I do it while its in the car? If its messier that way its of no concern the car needs repainted I'm new to this stuff and want to learn all input is appreciated
 
You can bench bleed it either way. I usually install mine. Put the caps on the ports ( usually comes with a new m/c; some may have a bleeder kit that has a coulpe of small hoses instead of caps. Route these to their respective reservoirs ), fill with fresh fluid, install the reservoir cover (unless you have the bleeder with hoses), and gently pump until all the air is out. Be patient, it can take a few minutes. Connect the lines and call it a day!
 
You can do it while it is installed in the car. Most people do it mounted in a vise so as not to take a chance of squirting brake fluid on the paint.
 
Just take some simple precautions - stuff some rags under to catch drips, and since brake fluid easily mixes with water you can have a hose or watering can handy to quickly rinse away any drops that end up where you don't want.
 
I'm curios about this myself. A lot of people says, also manual, to bench bleed it. Well I don't want to do that when my car is painted. So, I too, installed my M/C and will be bleeding it while in the car to limit a lot of headaches. I hope more people are doing this too
 
I've never understood it myself, I just got done bleeding mine on the car and it took about 2 minutes and no fluid to worry about dripping? My guess is some may be mounted in a way that makes it harder to get the air out?
 
Have done it both ways, depending upon what I'm working on. I will say that I always use dot5 silicone brake fluid in all my personal Hot Rods. Therefore not to worry if it gets on the painted surfaces as it will not eat it. And it needs very little service and is not hydroscopic ( will not absorb moisture ) unlike conventional brake fluid. Have the same fluid in My 60 Vette for 30 yrs now.
 
some masters wont bleed all the way when mounted on the car.bench bleeding allows you to get full stroke of the master cyl.some systems dont give full stroke when mounted and allow 4 a small pocket of air to remain in the master.causes a soft pedal.
 
Thanks for the replies I was wondering because I don't have a vise and was replacing the front brake lines so I figured it would be easier to do while in the car
 
More so on GM's the master needs to be level and when mounted it points up
When I sold parts and a DIY came in complaining I would tell them to jack up the rear or park in a ditch then bleed it again
so to stop warranty claims the mfg's recommended bench bleeding and supplied tube kits
 
Have done it both ways, depending upon what I'm working on. I will say that I always use dot5 silicone brake fluid in all my personal Hot Rods. Therefore not to worry if it gets on the painted surfaces as it will not eat it. And it needs very little service and is not hydroscopic ( will not absorb moisture ) unlike conventional brake fluid. Have the same fluid in My 60 Vette for 30 yrs now.
I am a firm believer in DOT 5. don't care what anyone says! 8-)

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some masters wont bleed all the way when mounted on the car.bench bleeding allows you to get full stroke of the master cyl.some systems dont give full stroke when mounted and allow 4 a small pocket of air to remain in the master.causes a soft pedal.
Thanks for this post, you may have solved my problem with a new M.C ............................MO
 
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