Best One man brake bleeder setup? Recommendations please

[idrivemopar]

So, still trying to get air out of my brakes, have bled three times now, all new components, everything, and yes, I already checked my front calipers, and they have the bleeder valves up, but still get about 3/4 pedal travel before brakes engage. So rather they trying to get someone to help, I would like to be able to bleed the system myself. I have seen many different hand pump vacuum devices, one that hooks to an air compressor to use venturi method to draw fluid out, and one that is reverse bleed, injects fluid from the bleed valve up to the master cylinder.

So, what is the best method in your experience for a one man bleeder setup?

 

[66Satellite_in_NC]

Google speed bleeders, I have not used them yet but they seem pretty good.

 

[idrivemopar]

Google speed bleeders, I have not used them yet but they seem pretty good.

I like the idea, so has anyone used them?

This makes more sense to me, and why pay the same amount of money for a vacuum bleeder tool that doesn't always work right. Just might have to try these out.

 

[hunt2elk]

I have one of the hand pump styles and have had great results with it.

 

[RKBurch123]

I'm using Speed Bleeders on my '69 RR and they work great. Web site is http://www.speedbleeder.com/. They work great as long as the thread sealant stays good. I ordered a bottle of their sealant and have extra bleeders on hand so I can replace and "retreat" older bleeders with new sealant as necessary. Be careful when you order Speed Bleeders - the part number on their site for Road Runners (SB51624 )only fits older, original brake cylinders. I had to learn the hard/expensive way that newer cylinders require part number SB1428. Don't waste $$ on NAPA, Autozone, or other knock-offs. They're junk and don't seal well due to weak ball and spring assy's.

 

[MarPar]

I'm using Speed Bleeders on my '69 RR and they work great. Web site is http://www.speedbleeder.com/. They work great as long as the thread sealant stays good. I ordered a bottle of their sealant and have extra bleeders on hand so I can replace and "retreat" older bleeders with new sealant as necessary. Be careful when you order Speed Bleeders - the part number on their site for Road Runners (SB51624 )only fits older, original brake cylinders. I had to learn the hard/expensive way that newer cylinders require part number SB1428. Don't waste $$ on NAPA, Autozone, or other knock-offs. They're junk and don't seal well due to weak ball and spring assy's.

so RK, the ones for say, OE style drum brakes are pn #SB51624?

 

[bm02tj]

get the wife or one of your kids out to pump the petal
also did you bench bleed master as they are not level or jack up rear till level then bleed

 

[idrivemopar]

I don't have a wife or kids, thought I would try this out, yes, master cylinder is level. Ordered a set of speed bleeders, real nice gal I talked to on the phone.

 

[Meep-Meep]

Did you change the master cylinder? If so you might want to be sure the pedal pushrod doesn't have too much clearance to the piston. The clearance is only about .030" - .060" (double check those measurements). The excessive clearance will cause the pedal to never come up to the top.

 

[Jonnyuma]

A MityVac hand pump sells at HarborFreight for about 35 bucks...clip a 20% off coupon and yer in for under 30. It's one of the (very) few items they sell that can be found at other retail outlets, ie: not thier own store brand. I've seen 'em at auto parts stores for $45-50.
It's a pretty useful gizmo, really. Checking vacuum advance, looking for vacuum leaks, bleeding brakes, fluid transfer, stuff like that. Good to have around even if you already bought the speed-bleeders.

 

[bm02tj]

Any method will work if you can get the flow velocity fast enough to push or pull the air out

 

[Dan]

Got this off H.A.M.B. hope it opens up.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=677808

 

[MarPar]

A MityVac hand pump sells at HarborFreight for about 35 bucks...clip a 20% off coupon and yer in for under 30. It's one of the (very) few items they sell that can be found at other retail outlets, ie: not thier own store brand. I've seen 'em at auto parts stores for $45-50.
It's a pretty useful gizmo, really. Checking vacuum advance, looking for vacuum leaks, bleeding brakes, fluid transfer, stuff like that. Good to have around even if you already bought the speed-bleeders.

My buddy bought the MityVac and i was there when he used it...not a bad product for the price, really. It did what it promised, although the speed bleeder seems like its an easier product to use.

 

[idrivemopar]

Did you change the master cylinder? If so you might want to be sure the pedal pushrod doesn't have too much clearance to the piston. The clearance is only about .030" - .060" (double check those measurements). The excessive clearance will cause the pedal to never come up to the top.

Yep, all new brake system, master, booster, prop valve, wheel cylinders, calipers, lines and hoses. I was thinking about that adjustment, but I have no problem with the pedal coming back up, if I just touch the pedal, I see fluid rise in the master cylinder, so suspect the adjustment is good. Just thinking there is more air in the system since I started with no fluid. So handy tools to make bleeding easier would be nice.

 

[godfatherofchry]

If you have drum brakes on the back it sounds like they need to be adjusted if so that can be dun two deferent ways one if your self adjusters are working??find a lonely road and back up slowly and pump your pedal and you will fell your brakes or brake pedal slowly come up every time you pump them up they are suppose to readjust there self every time you back up IF there working right.or you don't back up much. Or at short distance's,,,,, or two you can adjust them manually for that you will have to get under the car and have the tool or a wide screwdriver to do it.it sounds like you know how to do brake work??and your adjuster is more than likely there but that doesn't mean there working!!just trying to help and or if you need any thing else let me know I am on Abodys most of the time but cheak in hear a lot.............Artie

 

[super-bee_ski]

I have the VACULA
Its from Sweeden or Norway I think.
Hooks up to your compressor hose.
Twist the handle to the right and it flows to your project.
Twist the handle to the left and it sucks fluids out.

Its pricey.
If I were to do it over I would by the Mitey VAC kit.

 

[idrivemopar]

If you have drum brakes on the back it sounds like they need to be adjusted if so that can be dun two deferent ways one if your self adjusters are working??find a lonely road and back up slowly and pump your pedal and you will fell your brakes or brake pedal slowly come up every time you pump them up they are suppose to readjust there self every time you back up IF there working right.or you don't back up much. Or at short distance's,,,,, or two you can adjust them manually for that you will have to get under the car and have the tool or a wide screwdriver to do it.it sounds like you know how to do brake work??and your adjuster is more than likely there but that doesn't mean there working!!just trying to help and or if you need any thing else let me know I am on Abodys most of the time but cheak in hear a lot.............Artie

Thanks Artie, yes, I have adjusted the drums manually for the time being as she is not road ready yet. All the brakes are new and everything seems to be working. I got speed bleeders on the way, then I can at least do the bleeding again and see if the pedal comes back some more, its better now then it was two weeks ago after my buddy helped me bleed them, but its a new system, so I am sure there are still air pockets somewhere in the system.

 

[khryslerkid]

Heck, all I have ever used was a heavy clear bottle and a small hose that will fit on your bleeder. Slip a boxed end wrench on the bleeder, slip on the hose, place the hose in the bottle. Make sure you have plenty of fluid in the bottle so the hose won't suck air when you let off the peddle. On the last pump, two or three at a time, I will use a measured 2 by 4 to hold the peddle down while I go under the car to close the bleeder. Do the wheel farthest from the master cylinder first and work back.

 

[MarPar]

I have the VACULA

OOOOOHH! sounds dirty...might have to try me one!! lol :banana::banana:

 

[5.7 hemi]

I have the bottom line Phoenix bleeder. It's supposed to push fluid up from the bleeder screws into the master......doesn't work worth a ****, so I did it the old fashioned way, pump, pump, hold, lol!!