Body solder, what's everyone using?

[poly3521]

I took the rements of the solder out of the roof/quarter seam, along with old body filler. I welded the seam solid. It's supposed to keep moisture from creeping in from behind, rusting, and pushing the lead out. Before I buy anything, what's the easier, better day to fill, lead, lead free, or usc all metal filler? A friend has a camaro that needs a roof skin and asked my opinion. He asked about all metal.

 

[flypaper]

nothing is better then what they used originally..lead
it is not the easiest stuff to work with.
there is a learning curve but once you get the hang of it it isn't that bad.
i use lead and a very light coat of rage extreme to finish it off.

if you want easy then metal filler will work but expect some shrinkage over time
and if you don't have a vinyl top
it will appear eventually as will most any other product that i know of.

 

[snakeoil24]

Lead is the only way to do it. Don't waste your time with any plastic fillers! They do not expand and contract like lead. Also do not worry about fears of lead posionng. Just use gloves and also clean it correctly. If you want more help ask. Also buy the lead from Johnson supply they supply East wood and are half the price. You will need map gas with a rose bud tip, wood trowl and baking soda plus the acid treatment with tin lead solider prep.

 

[Dodge33]

I took the rements of the solder out of the roof/quarter seam, along with old body filler. I welded the seam solid. It's supposed to keep moisture from creeping in from behind, rusting, and pushing the lead out. Before I buy anything, what's the easier, better day to fill, lead, lead free, or usc all metal filler? A friend has a camaro that needs a roof skin and asked my opinion. He asked about all metal.

I've always had real good luck using USC all-metal, over fully welded seams. When using, just try to get on it, after good and dry, as it gets very hard to work with if it sits for more than a few days. After that, usually put a thin layer of good quality body filler to finish off. I tho, do agree with Flypaper on using lead, but if no/little experience, can be very difficult
to use. Good luck!

 

[mopar 3 B]

Do you over fill?

 

[moes]

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-deluxe-lead-free-body-solder-kit.html

 

[poly3521]

I was thinking about the Eastwood lead free solder, just because it can be sanded down. I know laying lead is a gift, I'm will to do it to mine, but I don't want to on a camaro. Thanks for the input

 

[snakeoil24]

The lead free solder is very brittle. You can sand lead solder if you use a file with transmission fluid on the file. You will get no dust at all.

 

[threewood]

I've always had real good luck using USC all-metal, over fully welded seams. When using, just try to get on it, after good and dry, as it gets very hard to work with if it sits for more than a few days. After that, usually put a thin layer of good quality body filler to finish off. I tho, do agree with Flypaper on using lead, but if no/little experience, can be very difficult
to use. Good luck!

I'm no expert but I have used this technique on two cars with good results. Epoxy primer, All-Metal then Rage Gold.

 

[Demonic]

Lead is the only way to do it. Don't waste your time with any plastic fillers! They do not expand and contract like lead. Also do not worry about fears of lead posionng. Just use gloves and also clean it correctly. If you want more help ask. Also buy the lead from Johnson supply they supply East wood and are half the price.

Got an address for that supplier?

 

[snakeoil24]

http://www.johnsonmfg.com/temp/NOLEAD.HTM

 

[snakeyes]

at one time we had a thread on leading ,here a good video

 

[snakeyes]

 

[snakeyes]

 

[snakeyes]

 

[slimt]

Theres a Form of art that will dissappear over time..

 

[snakeoil24]

Lead fillers expand and contract very similar to sheet metals. The leading process requires perfectly clean surfaces. The proper rosebud torch head and at least plumbers map gas.
1. Clean all sheet metal of foreign materials.
2. Scrub steel with baking soda and water.
3. Apply Tin to surfaces to be soldered and wipe away excess using a damp turkish towel. You will have a very high shine from the tin step. Many types of tinning prepavailable.
4. Order slim sized lead bar that melts quick for fast learn.
5. have trowls from old oak pieces and soak in Cisco or Transmission fluid.
6. Apply heat to area that requires leading looking for lead to draw and stay very shiny.
7. If lead begins to cool and goes dull reheat.
8. Use trowel like finishing cement quick hits with rosebud.
9. Never use steel wool to move lead or wipe.
10. Once all work is completed scrub with baking soda and then white vinegar and repeat the Baking soda with water step.
11. Clean with windex after.
12. Lad should be filed with a long 32 file and dipped in transmission fluid.
13. Under fall all lead surfaces and use short hair glass over filed lead.

 

[slimt]

And wear a mask.. its deadly material when melted.. the fumes will get you and you never know till its to late.

 

[Photon440]

Lead filler is actually a 30/70 solder. Easy enough to find.
https://www.rotometals.com/30-tin-70-lead-bar-solder/