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Brake Fluid Type

VANDAN

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I am upgrading to front discs on my '63 build, so all new across the board, along with 11x2-1/2" in the rear. Since our cars are stored more, than driven, due to our short seasons here, what type of brake fluid is the best choice, for resisting moisture break down, resulting in failure ? All input appreciated, Thanks...
 
DOT-5 Silicone. I've had it in my charger for 20 + years, no issues.
Buy a big container or two, flush out the old stuff and no worries.
 
If all your components are new, no mixture at all with other types, I say Dot five all the way. I ruined my new paint because of Dot 3 and a very small MC leak. Drawback to Dot 5, it might boil under extreme heat such as in road course racing......MO
 
DOT-5 Silicone. I've had it in my charger for 20 + years, no issues.
Buy a big container or two, flush out the old stuff and no worries.
I concur wholeheartedly with using DOT 5 silicon fluid. I have used it for 20+ years as well, without any difficulties what so ever.
BOB RENTON
 
On my '63, all components: lines, hoses, calipers, and m/c are new. The only exception is the rear cylinders, which I plan to re-build with new seals. Is the DOT 5 compatible with the new/older compound, component seals ?
 
My understanding is that DOT 5 is not to be mixed with DOT 3, 4, or 5.1.
 
On my '63, all components: lines, hoses, calipers, and m/c are new. The only exception is the rear cylinders, which I plan to re-build with new seals. Is the DOT 5 compatible with the new/older compound, component seals ?
I think so, if you change all the rubber parts to unused. New Wheel brake cylinders are not expensive, why not just replace them too? .......................MO
 
I have some OE kits around to use up, last of the Made in U.S.A...
 
Just pull the wheel cylinders apart and you can easily clean them up regardless if you install new parts.

The DOT 5 is fine with the rubber seals.

I used White Post Restorations in VA on a few brake parts and they say all warranties are void if DOT 5 is used. Not sure why, plenty of people use it.

For me, DOT 3 is fine. I have no issue with DOT 5 other than trying to remember what you used 5 years ago when you want to top the MC off. Car sees no weather or big temp changes. Moisture getting into the system will take a very, very long time.
 
The only thing long term storage will create in brakes is a tendency for the hygroscopic nature of standard brake fluid to attract and retain moisture/water. This in turn rusts the cast Iron bores of brake cylinders. We tend to take the old brake cylinders and resleeve them in stainless steel and totally overcome the problem. Plus I dont know why but Mopar drum brakes have a tendency to be sticky when first used and by S/S sleeving the cylinders we dont have this problem. While its neat to source and fit new parts sometimes the rejunification and upgrading of older parts can be a better long term solution. New cast iron brake cylinder will eventually rust while the S/S sleeved ones will outlast us
 
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Viscasil silicone lubricates/rejuvenates rubber, Dot 5 keeps the calipers from seizing! Stainless brakes lines might forever leak due to the hardness of the stainless flare, I have 11x3 on my rears and St-Regis pin calliper adaptors on 74 A body spindles,no booster,and Rock auto has the 11.75" drilled and slotted rotors.
 
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During storage of my cars I make a habit of
Depressing the brake pedals several times
every 2weeks.
I've found it keeps everything in good working order.
 
I'm useing Dot 5 and glad it did. The MC lid wanted to leak and anything else would have surely ruined my fresh paint.

They say it's a little spongy and I have to agree. It's just at the beginning of the brake pedal push but then it gets solid.

It's purple so you don't get it mixed up with dot 3.
I even stamped my lid with a #5 over where it had a #3 on it.

To use in a already dot 3 system, you need to flush the entire system with alcohol.
 
I am upgrading to front discs on my '63 build, so all new across the board, along with 11x2-1/2" in the rear. Since our cars are stored more, than driven, due to our short seasons here, what type of brake fluid is the best choice, for resisting moisture break down, resulting in failure ? All input appreciated, Thanks...

I just replaced the brake system in my car and I used synthetic Dot 4.
 
I just replaced the brake system in my car and I used synthetic Dot 4.
My friends that run a Resto shop also recommend DOT 4. I'm not sure what the difference is between 4 & 5, they're both synthetic ? Not ready to open the bottle yet, so I'll need to research this better...
 
I’m pretty sure all brake fluid is considered synthetic.
 
I am upgrading to front discs on my '63 build, so all new across the board, along with 11x2-1/2" in the rear. Since our cars are stored more, than driven, due to our short seasons here, what type of brake fluid is the best choice, for resisting moisture break down, resulting in failure ? All input appreciated, Thanks...

Did the same to my all drum to front disc on my '71 and put DOT 5 in it
 
Keep your system in good repair and the type of brake fluid won't matter.
Dot 3,4 or 5 designates boiling point.
 
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