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I'm working on a 65 Dart. This was a 4 wheel, 9" drum car originally. I've added the 73 Dart 11"front disc brakes. Of course, this car came with the famous single reservoir "Deathpot" master cylinder. I pulled that out and mounted up a 4 wheel disc master cylinder. I figured it would work fine since I plumbed in a 73-76 disc/drum proportioning valve.
Bleeding the brakes in this turd has been a pisser. I always start at the right rear, furthest distance from the M/C. I figured this could take awhile since the front half of the system was replaced. The rear seemed to bleed out fine, no air after 3-4 pump and bleed sessions. The pedal feel was spongy but improved from how it was. It would firm up with multiple pumps.
The front though...Holy crap! I'd bleed until the fluid ran clear, then move to the drivers side. The pedal got worse. I'd bleed the left front and get all sorts of foamy fluid and bubbles. Back to the right side and the bubbles were back. It was as if the system was actually making bubbles. I saw a drip from the firewall and it turned out to be from the backside of the master cylinder. I think it was defective and sucking in air on the backstroke! I figured I'd just buy a M/C for a vehicle that is directly compatible with the calipers and prop valve. I have a few used M/Cs at home but new is better, right?
I went to three parts stores..Or COURSE nobody had what I needed in stock. I asked for a NON power, manual front disc M/C for a 73 Duster. They showed different part numbers for cars with power front disc. Why? I've measured these before. The bore size is 15/16" in both.
There is a lot of interchangeability in these cars so it isn't as if I am some cheap junkyard hack! I have a 75 Dart M/C and booster in my Charger and it works great.
I have a few used Power disc master cylinders here that came off of operational cars. I am curious about what the difference is between a power M/C and a manual M/C. Is the stroke travel different? They both have the same 15/16" bore size. The fitting size is the same. They look identical to me externally.
I'm going to bolt in one of my power M/Cs and see how it works. In the meantime, anyone have anything to add ?
Thanks.
Bleeding the brakes in this turd has been a pisser. I always start at the right rear, furthest distance from the M/C. I figured this could take awhile since the front half of the system was replaced. The rear seemed to bleed out fine, no air after 3-4 pump and bleed sessions. The pedal feel was spongy but improved from how it was. It would firm up with multiple pumps.
The front though...Holy crap! I'd bleed until the fluid ran clear, then move to the drivers side. The pedal got worse. I'd bleed the left front and get all sorts of foamy fluid and bubbles. Back to the right side and the bubbles were back. It was as if the system was actually making bubbles. I saw a drip from the firewall and it turned out to be from the backside of the master cylinder. I think it was defective and sucking in air on the backstroke! I figured I'd just buy a M/C for a vehicle that is directly compatible with the calipers and prop valve. I have a few used M/Cs at home but new is better, right?
I went to three parts stores..Or COURSE nobody had what I needed in stock. I asked for a NON power, manual front disc M/C for a 73 Duster. They showed different part numbers for cars with power front disc. Why? I've measured these before. The bore size is 15/16" in both.
There is a lot of interchangeability in these cars so it isn't as if I am some cheap junkyard hack! I have a 75 Dart M/C and booster in my Charger and it works great.
I have a few used Power disc master cylinders here that came off of operational cars. I am curious about what the difference is between a power M/C and a manual M/C. Is the stroke travel different? They both have the same 15/16" bore size. The fitting size is the same. They look identical to me externally.
I'm going to bolt in one of my power M/Cs and see how it works. In the meantime, anyone have anything to add ?
Thanks.