I need some input on my front power brake setup in my 68 Satellite. I installed a new upgraded system last year and then yanked part of it out and replaced some parts with new parts of a different brand. Neither setup really dialed in like I wanted it to feel or perform. The pedal effort is OK, the pedal is not too hard and not too soft and things stop, but I don’t feel confident in doing so. I may be a little biased in my assessment though because when I got the car it had a single diaphragm booster from a ’73 E body and when I would hit the brakes it would grab so hard I would do a faceplant, but it also pulled to one side, which is why I swapped it all out. Now things are not snappy at all (which is actually a good thing), but I would like it to brake a lot better when I stomp on it, but still allow some feathering of the pedal, which I don’t feel like there’s much of now. I’ve put about 500 miles of stop and go driving on the new pads, so they should be well broken in. I also had a brake shop adjust the proportioning valve so the rear end wouldn’t slide sideways when I lock them up.
First off, in another thread Meep-Meep mentioned something about “the power brake cars had a link assembly that multiplied the pedal travel, and because of the way it's set up, the MC rod will not align with the pedal rod directly.” Do I have the correct link assembly here or am I missing something? I had a shop install this kit and I’ve always thought that the rubber baffle seal looked like it was bunched up due to the rod going in at a weird angle. You can kind of see this in the photo. I tried adjusting things, but no luck so far.
I’ve also read that for power brakes, the pedal linkage should be connected to the lower hole farthest from the pivot point. From the photo, is my pedal connected properly? When I sent this photo to MP brakes, they said yes, but it sounds like it could be backwards.
The last thing I need clarification on is my MC push rod length requirement, which I think may affect pedal feel and stopping power? Take a look below at my list of parts. Unfortunately, I don’t know the pushrod length of what’s installed without disassembling and measuring.
Original aftermarket kit installed all from Master Power Brakes”
10.75” rotors
8-inch dual diaphragm booster
1-1/8” master cylinder
pedal linkage and pushrod
calipers
Combination valve
Then I swapped out the calipers, Rotors, and MC. Now I have:
11.75” Napa rotors with caliper adapters from AREngineering
Wilwood forged dynanlite calipers with their BP-10 pads
Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve
New Raybestos 15/16” master cylinder for disc/drum
Same as before MP brakes combo valve, 8-inch dual diaphragm booster, push rod, and pedal linkage.
First off, in another thread Meep-Meep mentioned something about “the power brake cars had a link assembly that multiplied the pedal travel, and because of the way it's set up, the MC rod will not align with the pedal rod directly.” Do I have the correct link assembly here or am I missing something? I had a shop install this kit and I’ve always thought that the rubber baffle seal looked like it was bunched up due to the rod going in at a weird angle. You can kind of see this in the photo. I tried adjusting things, but no luck so far.
I’ve also read that for power brakes, the pedal linkage should be connected to the lower hole farthest from the pivot point. From the photo, is my pedal connected properly? When I sent this photo to MP brakes, they said yes, but it sounds like it could be backwards.
The last thing I need clarification on is my MC push rod length requirement, which I think may affect pedal feel and stopping power? Take a look below at my list of parts. Unfortunately, I don’t know the pushrod length of what’s installed without disassembling and measuring.
Original aftermarket kit installed all from Master Power Brakes”
10.75” rotors
8-inch dual diaphragm booster
1-1/8” master cylinder
pedal linkage and pushrod
calipers
Combination valve
Then I swapped out the calipers, Rotors, and MC. Now I have:
11.75” Napa rotors with caliper adapters from AREngineering
Wilwood forged dynanlite calipers with their BP-10 pads
Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve
New Raybestos 15/16” master cylinder for disc/drum
Same as before MP brakes combo valve, 8-inch dual diaphragm booster, push rod, and pedal linkage.
