Brake, Transmission, and Fuel Line Tube Tools

[streetmachine]

Hello. With everything going on with the supply chain issues I'm considering getting some tools to make my own brake and fuel lines for a few vehicles. I read the other thread that the Eastwood Flaring tool was the best out of all of them?

Anyways, I'm assuming that would be the same for the bending tool as well in which Eastwood would be the best brand? I'm also considering using stainless steel lines for all of the applications. The other thing I was wondering is if the Harbor Freight branded tube cutting tool would be okay to use on these lines as well? Well, as I dive into this rabbit hole I will have many more questions. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Gus chiggins]

Stainless steel can be a pain to work with, but it will last.

 

[dvw]

Depends on which stainless you use. I’ve had some from in-line tube that was so stiff you couldn’t double flare it with even the hydraulic flaring tool. It just slides no matter how tight you clamp it. The stainless stuff is over rated. It’s hard to bend, flare, and seal. I’ve gone to to dark colored steel tubing or Copper/Nickel. Looks good an works much easier. The hydraulic style tool is nice but a little bulky if you have to repair on car.The needle nose style tube bending pliers are nice for tight bends. Doesn’t matter what you cut with as long as it’s square and debuted. Done a lot of lines in my day.
Doug

 

[streetmachine]

That was my idea was to use Stainless so that it will last but, if Copper/Nickel or the dark colored as mentioned is just as good that's the route I might go for at least the one application. Thank you all again.

 

[Mackman]

I suspect that unless you are driving your car here in the Northeast during the winters, the steel lines will outlast everyone old enough to read this. (And their grandchildren)

 

[bm02tj]

They make a double wall tube that bends by hand with out kinking when it came out 30 years or so ago I could not believe until I tried bending my self
SS is harder to seal so I would stay with steel

 

[dvw]

The trick to sealing Stainless is a dab of white Teflon thread sealer on the flare and thread. It sounds all wrong. I was taught this years ago. Didn’t believe it. Then after a day of trying to seal Stainless, I tried it. That was 20 years ago. Never had a stainless line leak ever again. You don’t have to over tighten it to be successful either. Why does it work? Is it a lubricant, sealer? Don’t know. But it works.
Doug

 

[streetmachine]

I suspect that unless you are driving your car here in the Northeast during the winters, the steel lines will outlast everyone old enough to read this. (And their grandchildren)

Well the one car that I would make a fuel line replacement will be an the winter beater that's a 2008 GM product so that's why I was thinking of buying the stainless steel. It does get driven in the salt/road brine here in the Rust Belt. The other application (old truck) don't get driven in the winter but, the one does stay out with a cover on it which is another reason why I wanted to use stainless steel vs steel itself. Thank you again and I will definitely keep this in mind.

 

[EricaMG]

I have the Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool kit.Just over $400.00 worth every penny

 

[69_Coronet]

I also have the Mastercool hydraulic flaring kit and am really impressed. It is not designed for use with stainless tubing, though.

I would also recommend using the cupro-nickel lines rather than stainless steel. I used stainless brake lines on my car for the corrosion resistance and found them difficult to do any adjustments to. They are pretty, though. I used cupro-nickel for my fuel line and found it very nice to work with. I fabricated my own fuel line in order to make it clear the rear anti-roll bar. The cupro-nickel tubing is much softer and easier to work with than stainless and is corrosion resistant as well. Next time I do brake lines, I plan to bend my own out of cupro-nickel tubing. Cheers!