Breaking in the door jam wind laces/weatherstrip

fullmetaljacket

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I've installed new door weatherstripping/windlaces and it is super hard to close the and lock the doors. I think I've heard of a trick for relieving the doors of this gremlin. What gives?
 

Darter6

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When my 65 was done the body shop guy didn't like the manufacturer of the first set he installed. Said they are too hard and thicker than the OE factory type.So he got another set that was said to be softer. Sorry I don't have the info on it. Anyway, He told me to keep the doors shut as much as possible and they will take a "set" after awhile.They did. Wish I could help more but that's all I know.
 

Ron H

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I couldn't find these seals that were anywhere close to OEM dim's and had installed ones I ordered letting them sit a couple weeks during car resto chores. I had a feeling this wouldn't work and it didn't. Ended up having to replace left door latch as the intense pressure damaged it. My supplier said he doesn't know of any mfg's that make them different! Some have made some fab mods to their cars to get them to fit; but this didn't appeal to me. My old seals were still in usable shape so put them back on. As photos show, ridiculously larger and no way to run them under the sill plate. If anyone knows of a source for these that actually fit - great to hear.

20170706_092411.jpg 20170706_092333.jpg 20170702_180358.jpg
 

Darter6

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I'll call the body shop and see what they say. The guy is really into restoring the early "B's".
 

Darter6

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Here ya go , Restoration Specialties & Supply. Wimber Pa. 814-467-9842
He said they work the best and are closest to O.E. I bought the first set from Year One when they were doin' my 65,and like Ron H not even close. Hope this helps.
 
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fullmetaljacket

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Here ya go , Restoration Specialties & Supply. Wimber Pa. 814-467-9842
He said they work the best and are closest to O.E. I bought the first set form Year One when they were doin' my 65,and like Ron H not even close. Hope this helps.
Wow Ron H. those things are ginormously prehistorical. I don't think mine are that oversized from the originals. I was also thinking that there was a trick with softening up the rubber side so as to collapse enough to allow the door to close without slamming it violently.
Thank you much Darter6 for the info. Frustrating this hobby is sometimes.
 

fullmetaljacket

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Wow Ron H. those things are ginormously prehistorical. I don't think mine are that oversized from the originals. I was also thinking that there was a trick with softening up the rubber side so as to collapse enough to allow the door to close without slamming it violently.
Thank you much Darter6 for the info. Frustrating this hobby is sometimes.
A primal reason I am concerned is that my doors are aluminum and they don't take to lightly to slamming and being under pressure.
 

65hemi

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Try removing the windlace and adjust the pinch weld by bending it inward. You should be able to gain some clearance and allow the doors to close better.
Also the new stuff is stiff and will become more pliable over time. My doors are closing better after a couple of years.
I got my windlace / weatherstripping from Fran at Just Mopars; check the ads on the right hand side of this page. He said that some windlace have a more oval profile which fits better than the round.

IMG_0711.JPG
 
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69bfan

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All of the cloth reproduction windlace is coming through Restoration Specialties and Supply. I have heard of guys that have took an awl and pushed small holes into the rubber extrusion to help in making it more likely to compress. As others have said, guys have done everything from pushing the strikers to the max or bending the pinch weld to offset the larger bulb diameter. Finding NOS windlace in the correct color will be like finding the winning lottery ticket.
 

Ron H

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The guy I bought them from, Richard O'Shields, I think is a forum vendor. I bought a lot of seal products from him and was happy with them other than this seal. He was kind enough to send me another and the sizing was the same. He said as I recollect, that the black wind lace might be thinner than the red and was going to send me a sample to check this out. I also thought he said there was only one outfit mfg the lace so I'd not find it elsewhere. As it was if you look at my photos, wasn't thrilled with the color being a bit pinkish; but not a game changer. Why this stuff could be made 50 years ago in the correct size and not today...a mystery.
 

69bfan

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@Ron H , that was me that sent you the various seals and windlace. As I reported back with the initial purchase, the windlace was a hit or miss product. One box would come in fairly accurate and another box may be too large, too dense or too stiff. Then to make matters worse, I have had guys order the seals and install them and say they fit well. So for whatever reason, some of the cars were not as tight as others.

As for as reproducing the part correctly, a lots of time, it is a matter of finding something that is very close and adapting it to situation. I know that the current reproduction piece is purchased in the raw form and then sent out to a second vendor who applies the cloth covering.

Like anything, it comes down to cost and what is the economical balance between doing the part from saying being 80% correct to being 95% correct for the manufacturer. I wish that there was a better solution. But even the 66 and later models who uses just a rubber extrusion without the cloth covering experience issues with those seals. The factory original parts have always been a better fitting part.
 

Darter6

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I was doing a 64 Dart a few years ago. I wasn't anal in being correct but functional .I bought a set of seals for my 88 Dodge Ram on rock auto. $19 for both doors. I got to looking at them and darn if they were perfect for the Dart. For that price I bought 6 sets enough for the Ram,Dart and my 63 Belvedere 4 door,put the rest on the shelf for future projects.
IMG_1994.jpg
IMG_1992.jpg
 

Ron H

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I was doing a 64 Dart a few years ago. I wasn't anal in being correct but functional .I bought a set of seals for my 88 Dodge Ram on rock auto. $19 for both doors. I got to looking at them and darn if they were perfect for the Dart. For that price I bought 6 sets enough for the Ram,Dart and my 63 Belvedere 4 door,put the rest on the shelf for future projects.
View attachment 946832 View attachment 946834
Hmmm, interesting. I'll have to check this out. Having the factory correct color lace for the '63 would be great; but isn't a big deal to me as I haven't kept the car all stock anyway.
 

Ron H

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@Ron H , that was me that sent you the various seals and windlace. As I reported back with the initial purchase, the windlace was a hit or miss product. One box would come in fairly accurate and another box may be too large, too dense or too stiff. Then to make matters worse, I have had guys order the seals and install them and say they fit well. So for whatever reason, some of the cars were not as tight as others.

As for as reproducing the part correctly, a lots of time, it is a matter of finding something that is very close and adapting it to situation. I know that the current reproduction piece is purchased in the raw form and then sent out to a second vendor who applies the cloth covering.

Like anything, it comes down to cost and what is the economical balance between doing the part from saying being 80% correct to being 95% correct for the manufacturer. I wish that there was a better solution. But even the 66 and later models who uses just a rubber extrusion without the cloth covering experience issues with those seals. The factory original parts have always been a better fitting part.
Yes, I guess as you mentioned hit and miss on the wind lace. You sent me another set in case I might get lucky with it and appreciated your effort doing this. You are a class act to do business with concerned about customer satisfaction. Thanks.
 

dvw

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Mine shut hard a first. It bothered me because the doors are gutted with no inner sheet metal. Didn't take long and they shut pretty good. Did find one spot during the build where the old seal was torn. The door and 1/4 were too close. Ended up slicing and rewelding it for clearance.
Doug
 

fullmetaljacket

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Mine shut hard a first. It bothered me because the doors are gutted with no inner sheet metal. Didn't take long and they shut pretty good. Did find one spot during the build where the old seal was torn. The door and 1/4 were too close. Ended up slicing and rewelding it for clearance.
Doug
Didn't take long and they shut pretty good?
Did you keep the doors closed for a period of time to break in the rubber?
My doors are just as delicate made out of that soft alloy.
 

dvw

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Yes the longer they were closed in the sun the better they got. Bending the pinch flange in the tight areas can help also.
Doug
 

MCODECUDA

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Didn't take long and they shut pretty good?
Did you keep the doors closed for a period of time to break in the rubber?
My doors are just as delicate made out of that soft alloy.
It’s too bad that you didn’t have a donor car. You could put the new seals on the donor and once they compressed some you could put them on your lightweight car.
 

fullmetaljacket

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It’s too bad that you didn’t have a donor car. You could put the new seals on the donor and once they compressed some you could put them on your lightweight car.
Trust me, I've thought of installing a pair of steel doors if it wasn't so hard to align them. For now I'll keep the doors closed.
 
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