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Call me confused

Skytrooper

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I have done searches on this site and on the internet. The more I look, the more confused I am getting.
So, I took my 440 and pulled the heads due to 2 bent pushrods. I decided to check the timing chain and sprockets "while I was in there". Now, I have read many times that with the cam and crank sprocket marks lined up, and #1 at tdc, that this tdc. I have also read that this position is actual the firing position for number 6, and that you need to rotate the crank 1 turn to get to tdc on #1. This would have the cam and crank timing marks at 12 o'clock on both (as opposed to cam at 6 and crank at 12). Once this is established, you back turn the crank a bit and then come back up to 15 btdc.
How am I doing so far ?
Once I have gotten to this point, I should be able to continue putting top end back together. Since I will be pre-oiling, the dizzy gear will remain uninstalled. After, pre-oiling, drive gear goes back in aligned with cam shaft. Distributor will go back in with rotor pointing at #1 plug. Now with a happy fuel supply, this motor should start.

Ok, what did I miss.
Please keep it simple as I forget details walking to the barn.

Thanks !
 
How am I doing so far ?
It all sounds correct. What kind of trouble are you having?
When it does start...be sure to check oil pressure, then as soon as you can, timing.

If it doesn't want to start, be sure your getting fuel to the carb. Sometimes, if work has been done on the fuel system, need to prime it.
 
I have also read that this position is actual the firing position for number 6, and that you need to rotate the crank 1 turn to get to tdc on #1.
Wait a minute...piston comes up twice, on compression stroke, and on exhaust stroke.
 
Right on. Cam dot and crank dot will both be at 12 when #1 is on compression stroke. Or, put you finger on the plug hole and roll the engine over, when your finger is blown off the hole, that’s the compression stroke. Keep it simple.

When you drop the oil pump drive in, make sure the slot is running front to back. Or pointing straight forward.

When you drop the distributor in, I always point #1 more towards the alternator. Not at the #1 hole. Plug wires go from there.
 
It all sounds correct. What kind of trouble are you having?
When it does start...be sure to check oil pressure, then as soon as you can, timing.

If it doesn't want to start, be sure your getting fuel to the carb. Sometimes, if work has been done on the fuel system, need to prime it.

Engine was stiffer to turn over by hand in certain areas of rotation. It hasn't been started. The PO was not mechanically inclined and it shows throughout the car. So since I had 2 bent pushrods, I decided to just go a little deeper for verification purposes....and to establish true tdc.
 
If you have a multi keyway crank sprocket, make sure it is installed correctly. Those things have caused a lot of confusion for novice engine builders. Also as a long shot, make sure it is not a hemi cam in there. Finding true T.D.C. and a degree wheel should clear things up.
 
once again, the rotor can point to South Africa as long as the cam and crank sprockets are both at 12:00 and the number 1 plug wire is at the terminal the rotor tip is at.
the rotor DOES NOT have to be in a specific spot when stabbing the drive gear!!!!
 
once again, the rotor can point to South Africa as long as the cam and crank sprockets are both at 12:00 and the number 1 plug wire is at the terminal the rotor tip is at.
the rotor DOES NOT have to be in a specific spot when stabbing the drive gear!!!!

No, it doesn't.. But it sure helps if you want to be able to reference a shop manual when verifying the firing order....

It takes no more time to do it right so why buck the system?
 
No, it doesn't.. But it sure helps if you want to be able to reference a shop manual when verifying the firing order....

It takes no more time to do it right so why buck the system?
I can't count the times people get stuck on that and can't even move on to the next step because they are so wrapped up in trying to put the rotor in some exact spot when it doesn't NEED to be. it's just making it more complicated than it has to be. and it's not a "system" , it's simply stabbing a distributor to fire the number one plug at the right time.
 
Yes but the vacuum advance canister needs to be free from hitting surrounding objects. You also create a little difference in plug wire lengths by not getting it close to the prescribed position.
But true it doesn't matter where the drive gear is oriented to get it to run.
 
Engine was stiffer to turn over by hand in certain areas of rotation. It hasn't been started. The PO was not mechanically inclined and it shows throughout the car. So since I had 2 bent pushrods, I decided to just go a little deeper for verification purposes....and to establish true tdc.
Hmmm...hasn't been started, but had 2 bent pushrods...

Just to keep things clear, note setting the timing chain dots, and being on #6 cylinder, is how it's done for a fresh engine build.
TDC 'compression stroke', for #1 can and needs to be checked. You rotate the engine to bring the timing slot on the crank dampner to 0 on the timing tab. You want to know that's correct, first. Both #s 1 and 6 will be at top center. Which stroke is determined by the cam, for each of those cylinders.

Spark plugs out, how does the engine turn? Are you sure only two pushrods were bent? And, why were they bent?
 
Just went through your post on pushrods.
Good deal. Being down that far with the engine, it will be easy to check the timing marks, and timing chain line-up, to make sure it's correct.

If the heads are still off, the only 'drag' turning the engine, will be the piston rings. If your getting some kind of bind, at certain places, need to find out why.
 
Sheesh....went to install my heads last night. None of the bolts had washers, and I have one that is MIA. So it looks like I need to buy a new full set. I guess I should be happy I happened to find the error.
 
Ahhh… ok, that would make sense to avoid dissimilar metal contact. However I am still on bolt short.
Thanks miller !
 
if your head seats are chewed up = square them up or use washers even AN washers to get torque close to right
 
However I am still on bolt short.
Which length?
Too bad your not closer (Tx)...I've got head bolts coming outta my ears!
Individual bolts can be bought online, if you can't find one local.

Nothing dissimilar about washers. They simply were not needed, unless the surface was screwed up. Doesn't hurt anything, either way, as long as their torqued right.
 
Way simple to find TDC compression. Bring motor to TDC. Either #1 or #6 will have two valves both closed. This cylinder is on TDC compression. The opposing cylinder (#1 or #6) will have 2 valves slightly open the same distance (or very close to it). This cylinder is on the TDC exhaust stroke. Drop your distributor in with the balancer mark located at 30 degrees before top center. Google the carb vent location for your style carb. Fill each bowl of the carb(s) with an old squirt bottle thru the carb bowl vents. Now the timing is set to start and the carb is full of fuel. It'll start like its never been apart.
Doug
 
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