Cam Selection

[Dejavu1]

Any thoughts on the performance of the following roller cam in a 69 440 6BBL Road Runner, 4.10, 2200 stall converter, headers, stock 906 heads?

Operating RPM Range: 1,900-5,600
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 227
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 241
Advertised Intake Duration: 283
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 303
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:0.513 int./0.498 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees): 107

 

[Geoff 2]

Very rough idle.

 

[BSB67]

Maybe tell us what you are looking for. There are 200 cams that could be fine. You might not like any of them.

 

[Aron Gleason]

Well I'll say this, Im running a 292 242@.050 495 lift on a 108 lsa. In my 440. Its not too rough of a idle. Has good street manners.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

107 lobe separation seems a little extreme. I would go with 110 if it’s a street car. Anything less than that is for race cars.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Que 1,000 responses…..

 

[BSB67]

Well I'll say this, Im running a 292 242@.050 495 lift on a 108 lsa. In my 440. Its not too rough of a idle. Has good street manners.

Next question: why the change? What are you looking for that this cam isn’t giving you?

 

[Aron Gleason]

Next question: why the change? What are you looking for that this cam isn’t giving you?

Might want a little more go power

 

[BSB67]

Here is my opinion. If you have track time with the current set-up, your new cam probably would not et much differently.

If you’re not a track guy, the new cam might feel faster on the street because the initial hit on the street will be a little sharper with the new cam.

 

[68-500]

Seems like a lot of intake exhaust duration split. Especially for headers.

 

[Dejavu1]

Maybe tell us what you are looking for. There are 200 cams that could be fine. You might not like any of them.

Might want a little more go power

That's exactly what I want. I'm into the motor (4406bbl) due to worn cam lobes, and metallic fragments showing up in various places in the bottom end. I had used a Mr. Sixpack cam back then, and it served me well. I think modern oils and infrequent driving initially caused the problem. I thought while I was in there, I would make it a little more fun for the family, cruises, shows, farting around town, etc. My builder recommended this Comp Retrofit Roller Cam. I initially restored this 28,000 mile completely matching numbers Rallye Green A12 back in 1999-2000. I saw it in an add and bought it from a gentleman in Greeley Colorado. He name is Greg Button. As it sits today, it has 33,000 miles on the odometer. I'm 70 years old and am looking to have a little fun with it before I can't. I'm not disturbing anything that can't be easily put back and corrected. This is the second A12 I've owned. I bought the first Vitamin C car in 75 with 15,000 on it, off a Dodge Dealership in Shelby NC. The former owner was drafted into Vietnam and he left the no power steering beast for his mother to drive. She eventually traded it in at the dearlership. I paid $2,250.00 for that one and drove it all through high school and the dating scene, and was sick for years after I sold it in the mid-80 for $8500.00. So.... in short, that is where I'm coming from (a little history) and what I'm looking to accomplish. Thanks

 

[BSB67]

So I got a bit confused on who was saying what.

If the OP previous cam was Bob K’s cam, this cam will have a much more lopey idle. Maybe more than the converter will like. Once you’re rolling along it will be okay.

 

[Aron Gleason]

That's exactly what I want. I'm into the motor (4406bbl) due to worn cam lobes, and metallic fragments showing up in various places in the bottom end. I had used a Mr. Sixpack cam back then, and it served me well. I think modern oils and infrequent driving initially caused the problem. I thought while I was in there, I would make it a little more fun for the family, cruises, shows, farting around town, etc. My builder recommended this Comp Retrofit Roller Cam. I initially restored this 28,000 mile completely matching numbers Rallye Green A12 back in 1999-2000. I saw it in an add and bought it from a gentleman in Greeley Colorado. He name is Greg Button. As it sits today, it has 33,000 miles on the odometer. I'm 70 years old and am looking to have a little fun with it before I can't. I'm not disturbing anything that can't be easily put back and corrected. This is the second A12 I've owned. I bought the first Vitamin C car in 75 with 15,000 on it, off a Dodge Dealership in Shelby NC. The former owner was drafted into Vietnam and he left the no power steering beast for his mother to drive. She eventually traded it in at the dearlership. I paid $2,250.00 for that one and drove it all through high school and the dating scene, and was sick for years after I sold it in the mid-80 for $8500.00. So.... in short, that is where I'm coming from (a little history) and what I'm looking to accomplish. Thanks

Thats a cool story. I wish you luck in the progress. Let's see some pictures

 

[Dejavu1]

107 lobe separation seems a little extreme. I would go with 110 if it’s a street car. Anything less than that is for race cars.

Thanks Dan. I'm into the motor (4406bbl) due to worn cam lobes, and metallic fragments showing up in various places in the bottom end. I had used a Mr. Sixpack cam back then, and it served me well. I think modern oils and infrequent driving initially caused the problem. I thought while I was in there, I would make it a little more fun for the family, cruises, shows, farting around town, etc. My builder recommended this Comp Retrofit Roller Cam. I initially restored this 28,000 mile completely matching numbers Rallye Green A12 back in 1999-2000. I saw it in an add and bought it from a gentleman in Greeley Colorado. He name is Greg Button. As it sits today, it has 33,000 miles on the odometer. I'm 70 years old and am looking to have a little fun with it before I can't. I'm not disturbing anything that can't be easily put back and corrected. This is the second A12 I've owned. I bought the first Vitamin C car in 75 with 15,000 on it, off a Dodge Dealership in Shelby NC. The former owner was drafted into Vietnam and he left the no power steering beast for his mother to drive. She eventually traded it in at the dearlership. I paid $2,250.00 for that one and drove it all through high school and the dating scene, and was sick for years after I sold it in the mid-80 for $8500.00. So.... in short, that is where I'm coming from (a little history) and what I'm looking to accomplish. Thanks

107 lobe separation seems a little extreme. I would go with 110 if it’s a street car. Anything less than that is for race cars.

Thats a cool story. I wish you luck in the progress. Let's see some pictures

 

[Dejavu1]

So I got a bit confused on who was saying what.

If the OP previous cam was Bob K’s cam, this cam will have a much more lopey idle. Maybe more than the converter will like. Once you’re rolling along it will be okay.

Thanks!

 

[Dejavu1]

Thanks Dan. I'm into the motor (4406bbl) due to worn cam lobes, and metallic fragments showing up in various places in the bottom end. I had used a Mr. Sixpack cam back then, and it served me well. I think modern oils and infrequent driving initially caused the problem. I thought while I was in there, I would make it a little more fun for the family, cruises, shows, farting around town, etc. My builder recommended this Comp Retrofit Roller Cam. I initially restored this 28,000 mile completely matching numbers Rallye Green A12 back in 1999-2000. I saw it in an add and bought it from a gentleman in Greeley Colorado. He name is Greg Button. As it sits today, it has 33,000 miles on the odometer. I'm 70 years old and am looking to have a little fun with it before I can't. I'm not disturbing anything that can't be easily put back and corrected. This is the second A12 I've owned. I bought the first Vitamin C car in 75 with 15,000 on it, off a Dodge Dealership in Shelby NC. The former owner was drafted into Vietnam and he left the no power steering beast for his mother to drive. She eventually traded it in at the dearlership. I paid $2,250.00 for that one and drove it all through high school and the dating scene, and was sick for years after I sold it in the mid-80 for $8500.00. So.... in short, that is where I'm coming from (a little history) and what I'm looking to accomplish. Thanks




View attachment 2041782

View attachment 2041783

Here you go. I'll send more. At work now. Thanks.

 

[Dejavu1]

Next question: why the change? What are you looking for that this cam isn’t giving you?

I haven't run this cam yet. It is installed in the engine, and on an engine stand, and I was hoping someone could tell me what to expect before we finish bolting and firing it up. It's not too late to change it up. I hope we picked the best cam for my application, but would like to be as sure as possible, that it will "fill the bill". I was even tempted to stroke it, but decided not to mess with the numbers matching block. I am hoping this roller cam with the 2200 stall converter, 4:10 gear, headers, and the otherwise stock 4406bbl components would give me a decent bump in torque and HP, and was trusting that some of you guys could advise. Thanks

 

[Dejavu1]

Thanks!

Yea... it was confusing and the way I worded it probably didn't help, but I think I've made the necessary corrections.

 

[Dejavu1]

Here is my opinion. If you have track time with the current set-up, your new cam probably would not et much differently.

If you’re not a track guy, the new cam might feel faster on the street because the initial hit on the street will be a little sharper with the new cam.

Thanks. It might see the local track a few times, but by far it will be attending cruise-ins, shows and allowing me to occasionally show my a_ _ on the street. I appreciate the input.

 

[Dejavu1]

Thats a cool story. I wish you luck in the progress. Let's see some pictures

Thanks brother. I'll let you know how it turns out.