Can it be this simple, valve adj. as shown on Hot Rod TV

[Ronald Weishaar]

They begin by marking Distributor housing to match each tower on the cap. Then bring #1 cylinder up on compression to align the timing marks on the engine to damper at TDC. They then adjusted #1 Int & Exh, Then turned the crank to match the rotor to #8 mark on the Distributor and adj. #8 cylinder Int & Exh until each Cylinder is adjusted in the correct firing order.

 

[Fran Blacker]

They begin by marking Distributor housing to match each tower on the cap. Then bring #1 cylinder up on compression to align the timing marks on the engine to damper at TDC. They then adjusted #1 Int & Exh, Then turned the crank to match the rotor to #8 mark on the Distributor and adj. #8 cylinder Int & Exh until each Cylinder is adjusted in the correct firing order.

Don't think it's a good way to set valve lash. Lifter could be on a ramp. This chart is how MP does it.

 

[Ronald Weishaar]

Don't think it's a good way to set valve last. Lifter could be on a ramp. This chart is how MP does it.View attachment 963576

Not much room between the fan and block is there an easy way to mark each 90 on the damper?

 

[69Bee]

I agree with Fran, no in my opinion. The Mopar sticker works, and results in less crankshaft revolutions than my method, but I prefer to adjust them like this:

When the exhaust valve starts to open, adjust the intake. When the intake valve is almost finished closing, adjust the exhaust. Both of these relate to the valves on the individual cylinder of course. This procedure ensures that the lifter is on the heel of the lobe for adjustment. If your eyes are like Marty Feldmans, you should be able to watch ALL of the lifters to see movement, and maybe avoid some revolutions...

 

[Jessejames]

Not much room between the fan and block is there an easy way to mark each 90 on the damper?

If your fluid damper is not marked... you can get some timing tape and mark the damper. The tape never stays so you will have to park it. Get a remote starter and you can turn the motor over that way for adjustment.

 

[33 IMP]

Not much room between the fan and block is there an easy way to mark each 90 on the damper?

Most just use a timing tape added on to a stock damper. However....most stock big and small block harmonic dampers are 7.25 inches diameter, so pi times dia gives 22.776 circumference. Divide by four, (90 degrees from 360) you,get 5.694, near as can be to 5 11/16. Mark your damper starting from tdc every 5 11/16 and you will have it.
Also if you study the mopar valve adjustment chart, they follow the firing order, just like hot rod, but they do it 90° off, to make sure that you are not on a ramp of the cam, which you can be if you are inaccurate using hotrods method.
And guys that do a lot of valve adjustments, and quickly, use 69Bee's method. His method works on any four stroke engine, and you dont need a chart.

 

[vintage chromoly]

EOIC.
Cylinder to cylinder.

 

[Ronald Weishaar]

I agree with Fran, no in my opinion. The Mopar sticker works, and results in less crankshaft revolutions than my method, but I prefer to adjust them like this:

When the exhaust valve starts to open, adjust the intake. When the intake valve is almost finished closing, adjust the exhaust. Both of these relate to the valves on the individual cylinder of course. This procedure ensures that the lifter is on the heel of the lobe for adjustment. If your eyes are like Marty Feldmans, you should be able to watch ALL of the lifters to see movement, and maybe avoid some revolutions...

Just for giggles I rotated #1 To TDC on compression and checked #2 INT and #8 Exh as on the Mopar chart. The lash was as I had set it as explained from Hot Rod Tv. I hear what all are saying but it seems to work!

 

[khryslerkid]

You could find an old cap and drill out the terminals, mark each position, paint the tip on the rotor so it's visible.

Someone added another row on the Mopar Chart that shows each cylinder that you are stopping on TDC.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Think that was made mostly for cams with more duration than stocker cams.

 

[ruffcut]

I've been using the Mopar chart for years with no problems.

 

[steve340]

I have done tons of engines with a different method but the end result is the same - adjust both valves on the cylinder that is firing. It does work fine for engines with stock or mild cams were you need to adjust valve lash. It will also work if you are adjusting the preload on hydraulic lifters.
If it is a large cam there are better ways as others have posted.

 

[BSB67]

Just for giggles I rotated #1 To TDC on compression and checked #2 INT and #8 Exh as on the Mopar chart. The lash was as I had set it as explained from Hot Rod Tv. I hear what all are saying but it seems to work!

What you found will be the case 99% of the time, or more for typical street cams. Also, I view the lash spec as a recommended starting point. Plus the person to person variability in setting lash is not small either. All in, unless you are chasing et/mph, it really does not matter that much.

 

[earlymopar]

While this method does work well, what a lot of people don't like about it are the ambiguous "starts to open" and "almost finished closing" aspects. Having a procedure that eliminates ambiguity makes people (a lot) more confident in the outcome.

- EM


When the exhaust valve starts to open, adjust the intake. When the intake valve is almost finished closing, adjust the exhaust. Both of these relate to the valves on the individual cylinder of course. This procedure ensures that the lifter is on the heel of the lobe for adjustment. If your eyes are like Marty Feldmans, you should be able to watch ALL of the lifters to see movement, and maybe avoid some revolutions... [/QUOTE]

 

[69Bee]

While this method does work well, what a lot of people don't like about it are the ambiguous "starts to open" and "almost finished closing" aspects. Having a procedure that eliminates ambiguity makes people (a lot) more confident in the outcome.

- EM


When the exhaust valve starts to open, adjust the intake. When the intake valve is almost finished closing, adjust the exhaust. Both of these relate to the valves on the individual cylinder of course. This procedure ensures that the lifter is on the heel of the lobe for adjustment. If your eyes are like Marty Feldmans, you should be able to watch ALL of the lifters to see movement, and maybe avoid some revolutions...

[/QUOTE]

Well, since we aren't building space shuttles or rockets, so it isn't really a big deal. The procedure I outlined has worked for me for many years, and is more precise than a 4 position compromise procedure. It doesn't really matter how you do it, just so that your on the heel area of the cam lobe. If people are afraid of "starts to" and "almost finished" then they really don't want to look at the lifter position on the lobes when they "adjust these valves, rotate 90 degrees..."

 

[RemCharger]

+1 on the doing it right "start to open/start to close" community. I used the mp chart once 25 yrs ago.

 

[Mike meeks]

The method that 69bee spoke of is the way I was told and shown by Ray Barton when we picked up our hemi hot off the dyno. I use it on all my motors, no problem

 

[dvw]

Mine has a button on the firewall. Power to one side. The other side ties to the yellow wire at the starter relay. At 15-1 you dont want to be turning the crank with a socket Start at one side . Like has been stated by others, exhaust starts to open do the intake, intake starts to close do the exhaust. All my valve lash tools are in1 box. Valve cover socket, extension, ratchet, feeler gauges, LSM torque wrench with allen wrench, log book of lash changes. Lash changes for every valve are logged. My car gets the lash checked every 20-25 passes. Entire process takes 15 minutes.
Doug