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Can't go any faster after all....

Mike Gaines

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:07 AM
Joined
Apr 17, 2014
Messages
2,098
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4,296
Location
Ahwahnee, (Fresno) California
Well guys...I found the limit of performance of my 66 Coronet this last weekend at the California Hot Rod ReUnion. At this race I selected the 10.25 INDEX and ran right on it for 2 days. Although I did make it to the SEMI ROUND in the Nostalgia/AFX class I got beat even running just .003 off my index (10.253 on my 10.250 Index).
But...here is the report of my quest to get a 9.999 time slip...
1) I first ran my 505" motor 3 years ago (10/18/2015) and recorded a best of [email protected] at that outing.
2) Over the last 3 years I have been upgrading almost everything on the car to go quicker...and it has worked...incrementally along the way.
3) Ended up with best ET of 10.15 at 131.54mph then began my last effort to get a 9.999 time slip.
4) I replaced my steel deck lid (70lbs) with a pin-on glass deck lid (10lbs), replaced the steel "tub" in the trunk that the plastic fuel cell was inserted into (the "tub" weighed 35lbs) and put aluminum floor in the trunk and installed a very light aluminum 5 gallon fuel cell....all in all I took 125lbs out of the car from the rear axle back.
5) I took another 60lbs out of the car in the middle of the car for a total of 185lb reduction.
6) With good air I was looking for the elusive 9.999 ET.
But...I found the limit...
A) Car would NOT HOOK after taking the weight out of the rear and no matter what I did it would NOT get better than a 1.485 60', slower than my old 1.40 60' and my best ET with the weight reduction was 10.22. The 131mph was still there, but not the ET.
B) I have no more economical way to take weight out of the front of the car and I have to put the weight back into the rear to get traction.
C) I have no room for wider slicks so I can launch at more than my normal 3600rpm off the trans-brake.
D) I do NOT have the money to install ladder bars or 4 link and a full tub and big tire so I can put on 14" wide slicks so I can launch at 4500 RPM and get my 60 foots into the high 1.30's. My 11.25 wide slicks will only provide traction up to 3600rpm launch BEFORE I took the weight out of the rear.
E) The car is street legal now and I don't want to put in lexan windows, gut the interior, etc, etc to take out weight up front to go faster.
F) The motor makes right at 750HP right now and I cannot do things to make more horsepower without risking blowing the main caps off the block. I have steel billet main caps and a steel billet girdle and that is all I can do for this block.
G) I am NOT a Nitrous Oxide guy so I am not going to do that for more power.
I have now accepted the fact that after 3 years I have found the lowest ET (10.158) that this old girl is going to give me....and I am ok with that.
 
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At the last Summit race before this Hot Rod ReUnion race (before the rear weight reduction), the car ran deadly consistent 10.15 to 10.17 ALL DAY. So...I guess that is not a bad thing to end up with after 3 years of thrashing at throwing money at the car.
 
Well, I'm pulling for the "old guy"; been a great ride! What's next a Dart? When i quit yrs ago I didnt even go near a drag strip for over 18yrs. Was too afraid to get close! All the memories,smells,etc. Jeff (either way it's tuff)
 
Mike turn up the front shock rebound to slow the front end rise. Turn the rear shocks as tight as they'll go and you'll get your 1.40's back. If your front end is hanging down bring the front ride height up some. It will work better again. You upset the apple cart with all the rear end weight that you took out.
 
I was just going to ask if you made shock adjustments after the weight loss.
 
Well, I'm pulling for the "old guy"; been a great ride! What's next a Dart? When i quit yrs ago I didnt even go near a drag strip for over 18yrs. Was too afraid to get close! All the memories,smells,etc. Jeff (either way it's tuff)
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Hey Oldbee, funny you said Dart...

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Mike ,
I saw a couple of your passes last weekend . Rear is too loose on extension is what I could see . Makes sense with removing rear weight . You still have Caltrac/Rancho rear shocks ? Time to upgrade , cheapest way forward . I went to Viking to get rear suspension control on a reasonable budget .
This should also maybe allow a few more rpm on launch , I am at 4000 on radials no worries . And we do not get the best prep always here at Sydney , definitely not a best radial prep .

Tex
 
Mr.Gaines, i think you will reach your number but would like to say thank you for all the help you have given to us all here on the forum. some of us are still armchair racing and some of us have taken your knowledge and got their car to go faster from your hints of do this don't do that. i just want to thank you for all your help and next season you will find your hook up and will reach your number. even if you never do what you have done over the last three years has been great even for all of us who follow you. thanks again and having a 10.15 street car is awesome.
 
Raise the front and lower the rear. Vikings with the aggressive valving in the rear and wait till you have your heights figured out so you don't bottom out the shock!
Have you tested different shock setting? You are deadly consistent so shock adjustment can be seen.
 
malex, can you give us a close up of the tubes working on my tub layout would be a big help. did you weld inner well right to frame. thanks barry
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Yes I weld the inner tub onto the side of the frame. You'll be dealing with a compound curve when you lay your metal in. I welded in the new metal in 3 pieces on the Dart, it worked good.
Will replace the quarters later later. Hope this helps you.


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Raise the front and lower the rear. Vikings with the aggressive valving in the rear and wait till you have your heights figured out so you don't bottom out the shock!
Have you tested different shock setting? You are deadly consistent so shock adjustment can be seen.
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Yes yes Hemi Itis. Mike is beyond the CalTrac suggested settings now and he needs to fix it with shock adjustments, ride height, like you say. I went through the same thing last summer.
 
The shock deal takes time to wrap your head around. First, you learn what actual wheel torque (engine x gear ratio x converter) does to a tire. Then see how suspension can either add or subtract tire load. Once you know which direction to go, it's just test time. I don't think any of us here have the problem of too much torque. Therefore we all need our suspensions to aid hit at a controlled rate. Once you figure it out, its amazing. Think about how fast guys go on 10.5s? That's what drove me not to give up. For what it's worth my car is about 330lbs nose heavy. I'll say it again . Most traction issues (on a car with good parts) are the shocks too loose on the rebound side.
Doug
 
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That 30 lbs helps keep your back bumper off the ground!!
I'm also on a 10.5w with decent track prep it works well.
 
With all due respect to your car and driving abilities....have you tried a different Jockey?

I had another guy drive my GTX a few years ago, and the car seemed to go a lot faster. :)
 
With all due respect to your car and driving abilities....have you tried a different Jockey?

I had another guy drive my GTX a few years ago, and the car seemed to go a lot faster. :)
Can you ask for a better driver than a guy that’s been racing as long as mike has lol. I understand what you’re saying but if I was gonna pick out a driver for my car I’d seek out someone like Mr. Gaines, gotta think there’s not too many out there that’s been gappin chevys as long as he has lol
 
Can you ask for a better driver than a guy that’s been racing as long as mike has lol. I understand what you’re saying but if I was gonna pick out a driver for my car I’d seek out someone like Mr. Gaines, gotta think there’s not too many out there that’s been gappin chevys as long as he has lol
I just thought it was worth a shot. :thumbsup: Mind you, I am a bit heavier than the guy who drove my GTX.....:D
 
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