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car rotisserie for B body

cdoublejj

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I think my friend built on or modified one. had extra cross bars going across the bottom where you would get to the floor boards. makes sense for a convertible resto!

I have hard top that is getting underfloor frames rails and torq boxes etc etc. sounds like i should get something sturdy so i'm not welding to a twisted, distorted or moved unibody.

I always like to check here before making ill advised purchases and bad decisions so i can blame my self later.
 
I think my friend built on or modified one. had extra cross bars going across the bottom where you would get to the floor boards. makes sense for a convertible resto!

this one wasn’t made special for my car. All the welding was done with stiffness welded in at door jambs and across interior before now getting on rotisserie.

BE9E933E-3299-4827-8676-52CC4CC78684.jpeg
 
The car was on a frame plate? And leveled before cutting out any of the sheetmetal

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cdoublejj,

Check out post #85 on "73 Roadrunner 340 Auto" for the rotisserie I purchased and the one I probably should have purchased. Good Luck on your project.
 
We all want a "perfect car" but the way Chrysler slapped these together when new left a lot to be desired. I welded in my subframe connectors BEFORE replacing the floors.
Mike
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He's doing frame rails and torque boxes, so pretty hard to mount that on a rotisserie I would think.
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cdoublejj,
If you are like me, I don't have room or the $$$$ for a frame jig and a rotisserie. Yes, it would be best to have a frame jig to replace the items you mentioned (underfloor frames rails and torq boxes etc etc) but it is not the only way. If your plan is take the car down to the shell you are probably going to need/want a rotisserie to make your project much easier. And, if you already have a rotisserie then this might work for you. Limited resources/space requires some thoughtful solutions. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...D89208E26183EE66A3A2D89&view=detail&FORM=VIRE

Anyway, it is just one idea. As always, do your research and find what you are comfortable with.
Again, best of luck on your project.
 
cdoublejj,

Check out post #85 on "73 Roadrunner 340 Auto" for the rotisserie I purchased and the one I probably should have purchased. Good Luck on your project.

Ah the RTS3000, it has a lots of options!!! it has b body leaf spring mounts? i like the off road casters but, for $500 the seller is making boat payments. def looking at this.

Replacing main structure, especially on a vert.... jig frame all the way.
View attachment 958836

thankfully no, main structer is done

We all want a "perfect car" but the way Chrysler slapped these together when new left a lot to be desired. I welded in my subframe connectors BEFORE replacing the floors.
Mike
View attachment 958853

HEY MAN! They tried! You try building a car hung over on Friday or Monday morning! :D:p

He's doing frame rails and torque boxes, so pretty hard to mount that on a rotisserie I would think.
View attachment 958865 View attachment 958866 View attachment 958867

Torq boxes should be easy, these are the US car tool rails that go under the floor boards.

cdoublejj,
If you are like me, I don't have room or the $$$$ for a frame jig and a rotisserie. Yes, it would be best to have a frame jig to replace the items you mentioned (underfloor frames rails and torq boxes etc etc) but it is not the only way. If your plan is take the car down to the shell you are probably going to need/want a rotisserie to make your project much easier. And, if you already have a rotisserie then this might work for you. Limited resources/space requires some thoughtful solutions. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?...D89208E26183EE66A3A2D89&view=detail&FORM=VIRE

Anyway, it is just one idea. As always, do your research and find what you are comfortable with.
Again, best of luck on your project.

yeah i probably should do that. the car was almost finished then sat since i was born. i hate to hurt the paint inside but, the engine bay is finished and now i need the strut bars to stiffen the inner fender for the coil over/ rack and pinion conversion. no really whoopy on doing that but, the car was designed to the hold the load of torsion bars not coil overs bolted in where the shocks went!!!
 
skimmed that really quickly. i have a very similar kit yes, even with "strut bars" welded from the frame rails to the fire wall there should still be plenty of room for headers with a rack and pinion but, the oil pan might not be happy about it. you need the stiffness up front to take the weight of the car but, a lot of folks disapprove of welding stuff in the car since they are classics, nor do i look forward to messing up nice clean old new paint. but, it's structural hence wanting to brace/make sure car is straight. under carriage work should be nicer on my body with a rotisserie

We all want a "perfect car" but the way Chrysler slapped these together when new left a lot to be desired. I welded in my subframe connectors BEFORE replacing the floors.
Mike
View attachment 958853

mike was it on a rotisserie or on a frame table or what?



man i wish i had the room and money for a frame plate!
 
Very few body guys use a "frame plate" - they're more for race fab. You can do just about anything with a simple but well-made frame made of 2 x 2 tubing. And it doesn't have to be LARGE - basically something a little wider than the frame rails of the car and the length of the car is sufficient as the base.
 
Here are some shots of the 66 Coronet Convert on the Rotisserie, it looks like a very similar one to Jack above. When we had to do some more serious welding, it went to a buddy of mine and we put it on his Frame Plate he uses to build Rock Crawlers. I can tell you that doing a restoration with a car on a Rotisserie vs on Jack Stands is like night and day difference. In my old garage, I had a single post lift that went up to 6 ft. I preferred having the car body on the Rot rather than the lift. But.... you got too have it stabilized so things don't move. Here are some pics. One was for Taking the car apart. WOW, was it handy for that chore. Second is it went to the Blaster on the Rot. The guys there loved having it on the Rot. Then back in the shop as we begin to do metal work on the body. Best, B.

IMG_0510.jpeg
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"Ah the RTS3000, it has a lots of options!!! it has b body leaf spring mounts? i like the off road casters but, for $500 the seller is making boat payments. def looking at this."

Yup, I thought the road casters were on the $$$$$$ side of things. Could always add a set of HF road casters if needed. The crank and the heavier steel is what I was looking at.. I balanced my car spot on and could spin it myself when I first mounted it. Now, as more and more pieces come off, I ran out of balance adjustment. I can still spin it myself but it takes a little more effort and I wouldn't want to let go of the spin handle. If I had the crank, I could just crank it around. Other than that, I really like the unit I got. I see it is on sale now, figures. Note: I was really sold on the stabilizer legs but now that I have used it for awhile, I wouldn't be concerned about tipping. FWIW
 
Also I would say this, if you own a Rotisserie, YOU WILL BE EVERYONE'S BEST FRIEND, at some point in time in the car club. :) B.
 
skimmed that really quickly. i have a very similar kit yes, even with "strut bars" welded from the frame rails to the fire wall there should still be plenty of room for headers with a rack and pinion but, the oil pan might not be happy about it. you need the stiffness up front to take the weight of the car but, a lot of folks disapprove of welding stuff in the car since they are classics, nor do i look forward to messing up nice clean old new paint. but, it's structural hence wanting to brace/make sure car is straight. under carriage work should be nicer on my body with a rotisserie



mike was it on a rotisserie or on a frame table or what?

On a rotisserie. My body man let me borrow his (for 10 years) and that was wonderful!

man i wish i had the room and money for a frame plate!
 
this one wasn’t made special for my car. All the welding was done with stiffness welded in at door jambs and across interior before now getting on rotisserie.

View attachment 958833
I didnt have any extra support but i didnt have to repair any panels. I tried putting the doors on but the jambs were to tight but as soon as i got it back on 4 wheels everything was fine. I later welded in frame connectors to stiffen everything up. My door have a perfect gap
4.jpg
 
I didnt have any extra support but i didnt have to repair any panels. I tried putting the doors on but the jambs were to tight but as soon as i got it back on 4 wheels everything was fine. I later welded in frame connectors to stiffen everything up. My door have a perfect gapView attachment 961700

are you saying you welding in the frame rails after it was on four wheels and off the rotisserie
 
Yes i was afraid if i had welded them when there was flex in the car the door would not fit. My uncle planed on blasting it in the 80s but he never finished just left is hanging to develop surface rust. It actually sat on I beams bolted to the bumper mounts for 30 years up in the air. After that i put it on my rotisserie and got
2015_0727ni0033.JPG
it back on 4 wheels the car returned to the correct position. Im guessing if you have a soild car and are not cutting out panels you will not end up with permanent twisting damage either that or i was lucky.
 
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