• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

CE Ladder bar launch opinions

Wookie316

Well-Known Member
Local time
9:39 AM
Joined
Oct 7, 2011
Messages
1,244
Reaction score
1,486
Location
Alberta
A couple videos of my car with my Chassis engineering ladder bars.
One video is with a 30x9 slick and the other is a 29.5x10.5 slick. 14 PSI in the tires. Looks like I could go up a half pound PSI. Both hits are in the left lane. The right lane at this track always seems to be all over the map for me.

QA1 4” travel shocks in the front. 16 C and 6 R. The coil spring is 450. Could probably go down to 400, but my car is so big I wanted to play it safe. It used to have a 550 last year. I do notice the front of the car reacts quicker now with the lighter spring.

The rear are Afco Big Guns set start 4 from full stiff on the C and 24 from full stiff on the R. I can see a little separation. I am wondering how low you go with the R on the rear?

My car is too big to react like Malex’s 64 does, but it is what it is.

I’m not sure if I should tighten the R in the front so it lifts slower or not?

Ran car Saturday with exhaust and Sunday without.

10.47 @ 129 with a 1.44 60 exhaust
10.36 @ 130 with a 1.42 60 open

Lower bar is currently 0.

Launching at 3000.

Thanks guys.




 
I've been experimenting with these same rear shocks. So far the R has been as tight as 12, loose as 18. C 10 tight to 16 loose. My car is like yours very little housing movement. This weekend I'm going to make a big change in ladder bar location. Going up 2 holes. It should separate. We'll see what happens.
Doug
 
Thanks. Keep me posted.
I’d like to see some more separation also.
Watching Malex and how his car leaves makes me jealous.
 
Barney is an awesome machine!
Help me out a little here Wookie.
I thought you had a RMS triangulated 4 link rear suspension?
I'm not expecting to change anything given the investment I've just made, after torturing my mind (and some forum members) over asking about ladder bars, being convinced that ladder bars were definitely NOT going to work well at all for a street car, and having been "certain" I was going to install a RMS or Gerst triangulated 4 link rear suspension, I wound up using Calvert split mono leaf springs and sliders with Assassin traction bars.
Car is still in the shop, probably until at least Labor Day, so I haven't tried anything out yet.
I'm mainly writing this because I thought you were using a triangulated 4 link rear suspension.
 
Yes used to have a street lynx. Since I’m only racing the car, switched to ladder bars.
 
Yes used to have a street lynx. Since I’m only racing the car, switched to ladder bars.
Thanks. I'm going to send a PM if you can make room in your inbox, but it's not about ladder bars.
 
I've been experimenting with these same rear shocks. So far the R has been as tight as 12, loose as 18. C 10 tight to 16 loose. My car is like yours very little housing movement. This weekend I'm going to make a big change in ladder bar location. Going up 2 holes. It should separate. We'll see what happens.

Doug
Wow Doug that is a big change! Very curious to know how it turns out! Make sure to get video, please.
 
Wow Doug that is a big change! Very curious to know how it turns out! Make sure to get video, please.
—-
I’m curious to see how Doug’s car reacted to the change as well, with the more HP/TQ that he has. I also went up 2 holes. I found that the tires hit harder and I was getting some rear end separation. 1 notch more rebound on the rear shocks took care of that. The car wheelies more with the rear bar change and I’m controlling that with front shock rebound. Last weekend, day1, I was getting too much air and coming down right on the 60’ mark, both new bump stops were gone. I added 2 notches of front rebound to the shocks and that settled the front end down to about a 2’ wheelie. Subsequently my 60’s also dropped to 1.32. My 60’s were previously always in the 1.34 range. Of course, some pics..

Leaves nice and straight, a little too high and comes down harder than I like.
C0A2CB78-CAE7-4506-9C31-5BBF3FE3B293.jpeg


Lost both lower bump stops at the 60’ mark so had to throw in some upper bump stops for the day, that was all that I had to use. Borrowed a couple of pucks off of the grandson, will see how these work next time out.
091D976E-0ECD-41F1-9CF0-938EDEF3BBDF.jpeg


Bolted on the 29.5X11.5W’s for next outing. Was hooking good on the 29 X 10.5W’s last outing, so will see any change. These are 3” more circumference.
44A5C2E2-BDAF-4566-8659-AF1A109EF879.jpeg


This is the .500” shear plate off of the hemi. I’m going to give it a try on the Plymouth next outing. It will replace the .500” wood spacer. During the swap the intake plenum received some additional blending for the shear plate. The Super Victor plenum was pretty much untouched, so we’ll see. ** This shear plate resulted in a 37HP increase over a 1” Super Sucker spacer on the dyno with the Hemi. We’ll see.
F9C726F6-8231-427E-8E62-68174D65BFCC.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Thanks. Keep me posted.
I’d like to see some more separation also.
Watching Malex and how his car leaves makes me jealous.
—-
Just got to shuffle some Barney weight around my friend.
 
Bars are getting moved today. We'll be on the track Friday morning for NMCA at 131 Motorsports Park.
Doug
 
But Malex, won't 37 more horsepower put you back in the nines where you dont really wanna be?




Messin with ya! Testing is FUN, finding out what works on the track versus what works on the dyno. Keep us posted, please.
 
But Malex, won't 37 more horsepower put you back in the nines where you dont really wanna be?




Messin with ya! Testing is FUN, finding out what works on the track versus what works on the dyno. Keep us posted, please.
——
Wouldn’t that be a good problem .
The taller rear tires and the spacer may equal each other out on the et. I prefer the look of the big tires. They’re as big as I can go safely (cross section).
And. The taller tires were 6 lbs more, each. But. Air could be much better too next time out.
Fun fun.
 
Yes another 300 pounds off my car would change how it reacts.
 
—-
I’m curious to see how Doug’s car reacted to the change as well, with the more HP/TQ that he has. I also went up 2 holes. I found that the tires hit harder and I was getting some rear end separation. 1 notch more rebound on the rear shocks took care of that. The car wheelies more with the rear bar change and I’m controlling that with front shock rebound. Last weekend, day1, I was getting too much air and coming down right on the 60’ mark, both new bump stops were gone. I added 2 notches of front rebound to the shocks and that settled the front end down to about a 2’ wheelie. Subsequently my 60’s also dropped to 1.32. My 60’s were previously always in the 1.34 range. Of course, some pics..

Leaves nice and straight, a little too high and comes down harder than I like.
View attachment 993351

Lost both lower bump stops at the 60’ mark so had to throw in some upper bump stops for the day, that was all that I had to use. Borrowed a couple of pucks off of the grandson, will see how these work next time out.
View attachment 993354

Bolted on the 29.5X11.5W’s for next outing. Was hooking good on the 29 X 10.5W’s last outing, so will see any change. These are 3” more circumference.
View attachment 993352

This is the .500” shear plate off of the hemi. I’m going to give it a try on the Plymouth next outing. It will replace the .500” wood spacer. During the swap the intake plenum received some additional blending for the shear plate. The Super Victor plenum was pretty much untouched, so we’ll see. ** This shear plate resulted in a 37HP increase over a 1” Super Sucker spacer on the dyno with the Hemi. We’ll see.
View attachment 993353

what brand is the sheer plate?
 
what brand is the sheer plate?
—-
I think it’s a PRP plate but I’m not 100% sure. I looked at my invoice, it doesn’t say the brand but I’ll find out for you. It was one of a few plates we tried, it worked best on the hemi, it stayed put and came home. If it works good on the wedge it will stay on there and I’ll be picking up another one.
 
This shear plate resulted in a 37HP increase over a 1” Super Sucker spacer on the dyno with the Hemi.
I am clueless about "shear plates" and amazed that you had a 37 horsepower increase with a part like that! I've seen spacers put atop intakes to increase plenum volume and maybe smooth out the path by "straightening" it some, but even those usually are a modest change.
 
I am clueless about "shear plates" and amazed that you had a 37 horsepower increase with a part like that! I've seen spacers put atop intakes to increase plenum volume and maybe smooth out the path by "straightening" it some, but even those usually are a modest change.
---
They say that the way a shear plate or reversion plate works is that as the pulse comes from the cylinder (from either the valve closing, or combustion pressure coming through the intake valve) the air gets caught in the grooves in the plate causing it to turn around and head back in the proper direction. While the shear plate worked great on my 572 Hemi on the dyno it might not be apples to apples on the 505 wedge. Next time out we'll see if there's any change on the time slip.

IMG_6966.jpg
 
Thanks Malex. At least now I have a clue as to how it functions.
I have a Weiand P3690982 6bbl intake, that was the "go to" for 6bbl carbs and Super Stock racing in the 70s.
20200130_160358.jpg
20200604_135643.jpg

I have the Chrysler Performance bulletin mods for it, and mods from a guy "6BBL FLASH" who tried the Chrysler mods and then went his own way.
Screenshot_20200120-192006_Chrome.jpg

Since I plan on using it on a 541 stroker, that is going to be a whole different experience than on a 440, but it should be an educational journey.
 
I have my ET Genie under my carb instead of my 4 hole taper Wilson spacer. Wanted to see if it would kill ET in the full open position.
I looks like it has robbed some. Last year car was high 20’s low 30’s. This year it seems to be mid 30’s with that on. But that is Ok. It also could be fuel. X16 last year. Old C12 this year. So that’s probably worth a few hundredths. It all adds up.
 
I have my ET Genie under my carb instead of my 4 hole taper Wilson spacer. Wanted to see if it would kill ET in the full open position.
I looks like it has robbed some. Last year car was high 20’s low 30’s. This year it seems to be mid 30’s with that on. But that is Ok. It also could be fuel. X16 last year. Old C12 this year. So that’s probably worth a few hundredths. It all adds up.
I had an ET Genie on my 505 inch Coronet. With the ET Genie installed and wide open it ran .110 slower than with a plain 4 hole spacer of the same height. The slowdown cam from 660 foot to the end of the 1320 run....so....when I didnt need it for slowdown I just reinstalled my 4 hole open spacer for better ETs
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top