Changiing Over To A Single Wire/Internal Regulated Alternator On A 70 RR Question

[soundhd]

Plan on adding power windows and nice sound system to my 70 Roadrunner convertible this winter. Need to add an alternator with more amps (150-200) and would like to change over to to a single wire internally regulated one. Wondering if someone could tell me all that I have to do to make that change...am sure voltage regulator has to be taken out of the system but not really sure what else that I need to do. Also plan on adding a 6 circuit sub fuse box from Painless so I will not need to "tap" into the factory fuse panel in any way for the extra electrical power requirements. Any help and advise will be appreciated.

thanks

PS: Not really concerned about being or looking factory original.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

You can go either Tuff Stuff or Power Master 100-200 amp alt. I would think a 100 would do it for you. If you are not changing the ignition system then you can get rid of the regulator for sure, do you have the OE points distributor or an upgraded orange or silver box? If points I would switch out that distributor to a new firecore, new coil just to have a new one and use the orange box or if you have an msd box etc all you need then is the msd and modern distributor.

Mancini is my prefered place to shop but its up to you.


http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=175/mode=cat/cat175.htm



http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/mopar_high_amp.html

http://www.powermastermotorsports.com/mopar.html

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwm-8-47539/overview/year/1970/make/plymouth/model/roadrunner

http://www.manciniracing.com/distributors.html

http://www.manciniracing.com/chromal.html

 

[dpstark2]

This subject has been covered quite a bit here. A couple of points from my experience:

1. A one-wire alternator is not a good choice because in most cases they won't charge the battery at idle.
2. Internally regulated is fine, but all it does is serve to clean up your engine bay and make the regulator harder to replace.
3. You will need to run a charge wire from your new alternator to your battery directly. Then you will need to do an ammeter bypass. Details are on the web and this site.
4. People overestimate their requirements. Modern minivans with a ton of electronics have 120-150A alternators. For you, probably 100A is fine.

My personal pick is late model Dakota or Intrepid alternator and modifying your existing mounts. It will work with a factory two wire regulator. With a little work, it will work with an early factory one-wire regulator. It's off-the-shelf and easy to get and replace.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

If not done already upgrade the primary battery wire to # 8 awg at least to carry the load.

Just remember one thing about these one wires from my experience when it fails it fails the whole thing goes down and one day your battery is dead. and now instead of being able to just replace one thing or the other you have no choice but to either put it back the way it was or buy another. I'm on my second Tuff Stuff powder coated black unit the first failed after a jump start melted the reg. but form the reg wire failing originally from being pinched looks like when originally mounted wired anyway like dp said do your homework first.


http://www.tuffstuffperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=results/category_id=258/mode=cat/cat258.htm



FAQ page from tuff stuff and I beleive the power masters also say theirs charge at idle as well.




"Is it true that one wire alternators don’t charge at idle?

Tuff Stuff’s 30 years of experience have enabled us to develop alternator internal components that will keep your battery charged at a crawl. No other manufacturer in the industry has been able to produce more amps at low RPM’s than us. There is no need to worry about the use of underdrive pulley systems or ignition regulator turn on with the use of a Tuff Stuff one wire alternator."

 

[dpstark2]

Most 1-wire alternators have a circuit that detects the alternator speed and "turns on" above a set speed. Not all 1-wires will charge at idle. I can't say a particular one will or won't, but I suspect the manufacturer can't either. They may have a low turn on speed, but they can't necessarily predict every combination of pulleys that might be used on a motor.

If it works, it works. I have a very nice Powermaster that does not charge at idle, and I'm not alone in that boat. This whole problem goes away if you just use a good OEM alternator and regulator.

These questions come up all the time, so I'm just trying, like JB said, to encourage people to do some research. Mid-90's Dakotas have a 120A alternator option that can easily be made to work on A/C and non-A/C big blocks with a pulley swap. Pulleys are available online. The alternators are about $120.

- - - Updated - - -

Here's one tucked away on my Dart's /6, using the factory regulator. Works great and only required grinding the bracket down about 1/4".

 

[bm02tj]

Most one wire alternators are self exciting and need the RPM to start charging and after that will charge at idle
As a note any time you boost another vehicle have yours shut off to protect it from spikes
So have heavy cables or hook up then start the good vehicle and put a charge on the dead one

 

[super-bee_ski]

Great thread!
Thanks!

 

[Yatzee]

Ask anyone about 3G and they might get it confused with the older cell phone network. However, Ford’s 3G high-amp alternator is the sweetest solution for anyone looking to boost charging system output in an afternoon. The 3G will handle just about any size electrical load you can imagine, whether you have a classic or late-model Mustang. The beauty of the 3G is idle speed output and fitment. It delivers plenty of amperage at idle, and can deliver as much as 230 amps depending on where you source your 3G.The Motorcraft 3G alternator is available from a number of sources. PA Performance, Powermaster Performance, Performance Distributors, and Summit Racing Equipment are all excellent sources for 3G alternators and conversion kits. If you want a more economical route go to you local auto wreckers and pick one up for about $50. They were used on many Fords from 1994 to present but make sure to get one with the mounting tabs at 180 degree clocking. You can change this orientation by clocking 120 degrees at a time. All you need do is mention 3G and they'll know exactly what you want. Here's the output scale at r.p.m. ( right side column)

Engine RPM	1G 60-AMP	2G 75-AMP	3G 95-AMP	3G 130-AMP	3G 200-AMP
900	15	24	64	81	102
1,000	30	41	70	107	120
1,250	43	55	76	120	157
1,500	50	61	93	138	179
1,750	55	69	99	147	184
2,000	58	72	109	156	187
2,250	61	75	112	160	194
2,500	63	78	114	167	199
2,750	65	80	116	174	204
3,000	66	81	122	181	207

What makes these a fantastic choice is that they stage the amperage output to your requirements regardless of engine speed. You can find easy installation notes all over the web because this mod is so popular. Best part is the voltage regulator is about $38 OEM and can be changed without removing the unit.

 

[747mopar]

I have one wires on my tractors and my Charger with no issues, never had one go bad yet. The tractors require a quick rev to excite but the Charger charges all the time with no issues.... it's a Tuff brand from Summit. I've bought 1 wire kit's from Summit and converted them myself as well for a cheaper alternative.

 

[snakeoil24]

Before you do anything, call Mark at mad Electrical. He will school you on wiring systems like no other. A genius in electrical systems. Your decision will change after you learn from mark.

 

[Hemirunner]

http://www.qualitypowerauto.com/item_17/3G-Small-Case-High-Output-Alternator-with-Internal-Regulator.htm

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

But then he would have a ford part in his mopar? and we all know using ford parts for a mopar will cause serious slapping. :tongue: