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Charger windshield install

jwtdvm

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Lots of posts on this subject but I could
not find this answer. I recieved my new windshield gasket and I installed it in the opening just to see how it fit. It goes onto the pinch weld fine on the top and sides but it then has to transition on to the bottom where the pinch weld is not part of the process--however the pinch weld does contine along the body under the dash--My question is should I slit the gasket so it can cross over the pinch weld in the lower corners?? Hope that makes sense.
 
It may depend on where you sourced your gasket. The one I used on my Coronet was a Goodmark piece and I did not have to slit the gasket. Not sure if it was due to the AMD glass not being exactly right but I did have to use silicon in the lower corners to get a good seal. There was about a 1/4 inch gap on each side of the windshield in the lower corners.
 
If it were me, I would have an old school glass shop do the install. There are way too many threads on here complaining about leaks after a new windshield install. I had my new gasket and glass installed by a shop that has been doing these old B bodies for years. Wasn't cheap but I didn't want to be one of the complainers. Also, if it would have leaked, I would have had some recourse to have it re-sealed. The do it once-do it right slogan comes to mind.
 
This is a 66 or 67 Charger?

Yes,
Those lower corners are rough to not leak.
Bad design.

I've got plenty of experience on this particular install.
4 times in the same car.
(I've also replaced the cowl top.)
But this wasn't my first car.
I've done A bodies by myself with original rubber and glass which were no where near has hard.
Of course, the A bodies have a smaller glass.
One install was cracked by an helper on accident after we got it in.
So that doesn't count.

What gasket are you using?
I would assume you bought the Precision.
Regardless, you should not need to modify the gasket.
Or someone must have made it wrong.

Is your windshield an original or reproduction?
If it is a repro, is it a Chinese one or an AMD "authorized" one?
I believe the AMD are a few thousands thicker from looking at them.

You will need to use plenty of 3M8509.
The factory manual says to start at the top.
I can't say that's best.
It's your call.
I started at the bottom the last time and used gravity.
But it made the top a fight at the top center.

The biggest thing to check is be sure you gasket fits close to the metal at all 4 corners with no glass in it.
And is not too short in any of the dimensions.
1/4 inch short will make a difference.
I cannot be too small.
You've got a fight on your hands.


Side note:
Since I found the gasket must be cut and removed to really be able to find the trim clips, I had no problem with filling the channel with 3509 after the glass was in.
The coating the underside of the trim with PTF tape for release before installing the trim.
I have not leaked checked it this time.
But I'm hopeful.
 
Last edited:
This is a 66 or 67 Charger?

Yes,
Those lower corners are rough to not leak.
Bad design.

I've got plenty of experience on this particular install.
4 times in the same car.
(I've also replaced the cowl top.)
But this wasn't my first car.
I've done A bodies by myself with original rubber and glass which were no where near has hard.
Of course, the A bodies have a smaller glass.
One install was cracked by an helper on accident after we got it in.
So that doesn't count.

What gasket are you using?
I would assume you bought the Precision.
Regardless, you should not need to modify the gasket.
Or someone must have made it wrong.

Is your windshield an original or reproduction?
If it is a repro, is it a Chinese one or an AMD "authorized" one?
I believe the AMD are a few thousands thicker from looking at them.

You will need to use plenty of 3M8509.
The factory manual says to start at the top.
I can't say that's best.
It's your call.
I started at the bottom the last time and used gravity.
But it made the top a fight at the top center.

The biggest thing to check is be sure you gasket fits close to the metal at all 4 corners with no glass in it.
And is not too short in any of the dimensions.
1/4 inch short will make a difference.
I cannot be too small.
You've got a fight on your hands.


Side note:
Since I found the gasket must be cut and removed to really be able to find the trim clips, I had no problem with filling the channel with 3509 after the glass was in.
The coating the underside of the trim with PTF tape for release before installing the trim.
I have not leaked checked it this time.
But I'm hopeful.
 
It is a precision gasket and the windshield is factory original---the gasket does have a kinda square indentation in it at the lower corners but seems a "cut/slice" in that area will facilitate transistioning over the pinch weld and out to the lower corners on the OTHER side of the pinch weld
 
It is a precision gasket and the windshield is factory original---the gasket does have a kinda square indentation in it at the lower corners but seems a "cut/slice" in that area will facilitate transistioning over the pinch weld and out to the lower corners on the OTHER side of the pinch weld

What you are calling a pinch weld, I would call a "fence".
It runs up the A pillars and across the roof, right?
There is only a "channel" across the cowl that the rubber just sits in.
I understand the square indentation you speak of.
That is normal from the two manufactures I've used.
In fact, I'm sure I compared it to an original before I threw that one away several year ago.
So let's say it is correct.
Have I summed it up like you are thinking?
I'll see if I have any good pictures of these things for your clarification.
 
That all sounds right--but if you remove dash you would see the pinch weld/fence runs all the way around the window opening--now on the bottom of the opening the gasket does not stay on the pinch weld/fence it "jumps" it and just lays on the cowl. I understand all that it just seems strange that there is not a provision in the gasket to transition from on the pinch to off the pinch---just imagine you pushed the gasket slot over the A pillars fence and when you got to the top you decided to lay the gasket on top of the fence--It kinda distorts the gasket and it wont lay flat--same kinda thing--most everyone says the available gaskets "pinch" or "pucker" in the lower corners--I guess that is why. You are forcing the gasket over the pinchweld/fence so it "sticks-up" some in the lower corners--guess thats just Chrysler way of doing it.
 
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