Charging issue with mechanical regulator

[440 PHIXX]

I recently experienced a no charge condition on my ‘68 Satellite it still had the original 35 amp alternator and a replacement voltage regulator. I got a new alternator for it and it worked for about a week. It’s now only moving the amp gauge to about zero if the engine is above 2500 RPM with no accessories on. I ordered a new regulator. Has anyone seen this issue before?

 

[RemCharger]

If the battery is requiring no charge... the amp gauge should be zero..

 

[440 PHIXX]

If the battery is requiring no charge... the amp gauge should be zero..

It’s not working right. It goes over to discharge when I turn the headlights on. And the engine starts missing. It’s running on the battery. I have to check the fusible link that goes from the relay to the bulkhead. It was replaced at some point with an inline fuse.

 

[wagonman]

I had one of the new solid circut VRs go south on Me on a 500 mile trip about 3 weeks ago. Vatozone had one lucky for me. Now I keep a spare along with an Ign Module and a ballast. Nothing lasts forever especially if its made in Ching Chong. What aint?

 

[toolmanmike]

Most new is junk. Make sure your regulator case is properly grounded to the firewall. That should cause a over charge though.

 

[440 PHIXX]

I had one of the new solid circut VRs go south on Me on a 500 mile trip about 3 weeks ago. Vatozone had one lucky for me. Now I keep a spare along with an Ign Module and a ballast. Nothing lasts forever especially if its made in Ching Chong. What aint?

I ordered a new one from Rockauto. It looks like a mechanical.

 

[toolmanmike]

I ordered a new one from Rockauto. It looks like a mechanical.

I like the mechanical ones. They make the lights flicker just like original and they won't boil your battery like a electronic one (with a bad ground) will. I had that issue!

 

[Nacho-RT74]

If the battery is requiring no charge... the amp gauge should be zero..

To support this reply

Aside this, the main splice is between ammeter and bulkhead on black wire which is the one coming from alt. The system is intended to feed this splice and spread it around from alt without any monitoring coming from alt, and JUST monitoring what is coming or going to the batt ( to get back the charge when is discharged )

IF the power coming from alt is not enough, then the splice will be fed from batt going throught the ammeter, hence the discharge reading.

My first thought could be a bad conection at bulkhead on the wire coming from alt ( black 12 gauge ), which is not allowing to feed correctly the splice, so while the car is still demanding the same load no matter where it comes, if alt side is failing ( totally or partially ), then will suck from batt. Hence why you have discharge.

A bad conection is like a water restriction on a smaller pipe coming from a larger pipe. The alt COULD be capable ( I don't think the stock 35 amps are anyway, but IMHO is a Factory underrating fail ), but a wire or bad conection won't allow the full or the required load going throught, and tipically causes heat. Then you find melted spots.

 

[Don Frelier]

I put solid state on my cars.
Never had a problem and they charge better at low rpm.

 

[RJRENTON]

With regard to the mechanical voltage regulator, there are 2 internal "fuse" links (visable when the cover is removed), which can fail IF the internal contact points stick or weld themselves together (usually the top/ center contacts). When this occurs, the alternator goes to max charge until the system voltage goes high, to the point that the regulator's internal fuse link opens, resulting in ZERO field voltage and zero alternator charge, or zero or negative alternator gauge (ammeter) movement.
The electronic replacement device has a transistor that switches the field voltage. If this transistor fails, it usually fails open, resulting in zero field voltage. If it fails shorted, the alternator will charge the maximum. The ammeter will show negative (open transistor) or maximum (shorted transistor). Its not likely that the vehicle's fuse link will be affected.
BOB RENTON

 

[440 PHIXX]

With regard to the mechanical voltage regulator, there are 2 internal "fuse" links (visable when the cover is removed), which can fail IF the internal contact points stick or weld themselves together (usually the top/ center contacts). When this occurs, the alternator goes to max charge until the system voltage goes high, to the point that the regulator's internal fuse link opens, resulting in ZERO field voltage and zero alternator charge, or zero or negative alternator gauge (ammeter) movement.
The electronic replacement device has a transistor that switches the field voltage. If this transistor fails, it usually fails open, resulting in zero field voltage. If it fails shorted, the alternator will charge the maximum. The ammeter will show negative (open transistor) or maximum (shorted transistor). Its not likely that the vehicle's fuse link will be affected.
BOB RENTON

Thanks! I put a new alternator in and it worked for about two weeks. The lights did flicker at idle, but with everything on in the morning... headlights, wipers, blower it was at zero or showing charge. It’s now just showing discharge, and the engine misses when hitting the gas. Nice thing about the amp gauge, it shows that it is running off the battery. I do have an Optima in the car. I’ll check grounds today but I’ve been meant to replace a garage fix that was on the car when I got it. Instead of a fusible link, someone installed an inline fuse. No problem there. But the holder broke about 5 years ago and I just used plastic zip ties to hold it together. So I ordered a new (Ford) part to install. Here’s the one that was replaced. It probably overheated, and the guy cut the bulkhead connector to install a new spade.