Geri
Deceased, But not forgotton
would a 20Amp alternator be sufficient for a car with battery ign, heater and lights? no frills '64 dodge 330. looking to get a small alternator for the dodge. thanks for any response.
charging system
- Thread starter Geri
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Lefty71
Well-Known Member
A small alternator will work for a car with simple needs and a good battery. However, keep this in mind if you are going to actually use the heater; Older cars with inefficient older motors, or worn out bearings in the motor can kill a battery quickly because of dragging bearings, so make sure that motor is a good one in good shape. Sidenote, running the blower on low setting will not help at all due to the inefficient resistor design. Old school headlights are probably the biggest draw otherwise. HTH, Lefty71
Geri
Deceased, But not forgotton
thanks for the insight- the car is not a daily driver nor do I have other needs- no radio etc.the reason I ask is I want a smaller diameter Alternator ,the Mopar alternators are bulletproof but big as the goodyear blimp. I've located a ridiculously small alternator that is 20 amp. I previously used an older honda civic alternator on another car they are also small, but smaller yet is better. thank you for the post.it helps.
69a100
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Like you, my 69-A100 has light's, blower, wiper, no radio and had a small as alternator in it. It did the job but when it took a dump, I used a higher amp unit off a 73 Dart, I also upgraded the Regulator too. All I'll say is I have way more juice then I'll ever need. Why you want to go smaller is any bodies guess? Good Luck
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
making the opposite that a car need ?
a 20 amps alt will barelly put out 8-10 amps iddling
you want a safe electricity system on your car, get no less than 40 amps while iddling alt ( not max output, but iddling ) for the equipment you mention... the more the better thought. And you are forgetting brake lights, turning lights. Flashers sucks a lot and alt usually doesn't get the time to recover instantly for them.
Stock heater blower sucks lot of power too... around 12-15 amps at max speed if bushings and brushes are ok
Niponndenso alts are good option which looks a bit smaller and are more efficient than old stock ones at low RPMs
a 20 amps alt will barelly put out 8-10 amps iddling
you want a safe electricity system on your car, get no less than 40 amps while iddling alt ( not max output, but iddling ) for the equipment you mention... the more the better thought. And you are forgetting brake lights, turning lights. Flashers sucks a lot and alt usually doesn't get the time to recover instantly for them.
Stock heater blower sucks lot of power too... around 12-15 amps at max speed if bushings and brushes are ok
Niponndenso alts are good option which looks a bit smaller and are more efficient than old stock ones at low RPMs
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Geri
Deceased, But not forgotton
I dont want to go less amps I want smaller diameter of the alternator . I need to fit an alternator into a small area. I'm trying to find a compromise of smaller VS output. I've found a ridiculously small alternator but only 20Amp. Mopar alternators are great- but a bit oversized. I do appreciate the input from all.
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
Mancini Racing offers the nippondenso alt you could be whishing BUT I bet getting the PN, could get it cheaper at RockAuto LOL. Its smaller diameter and fits on same stock locations. This has being talked several times but never get to grab the PNs for it
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
aaand, Allpars gets you the alt reference
10. The late-model Nipondenso alternators (left) can be retrofitted. Mounting is basically similar. Stud (not called out in pix) is used instead of Indy-built (right) unit’s 5/16" threaded hole for tensioning bracket, but this is of little consequence. Pulley bolts on and is easily replaced or swapped on ND unit. Wiring is easy (see photo 8.) Biggest hassle is extra depth (thickness.) In most cases, it still fits, but output stud must be shortened and insulator (to splash shield) discarded. To prevent potential major-league short circuits, simply cut away the splash shield as needed.
https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html
10. The late-model Nipondenso alternators (left) can be retrofitted. Mounting is basically similar. Stud (not called out in pix) is used instead of Indy-built (right) unit’s 5/16" threaded hole for tensioning bracket, but this is of little consequence. Pulley bolts on and is easily replaced or swapped on ND unit. Wiring is easy (see photo 8.) Biggest hassle is extra depth (thickness.) In most cases, it still fits, but output stud must be shortened and insulator (to splash shield) discarded. To prevent potential major-league short circuits, simply cut away the splash shield as needed.
https://www.allpar.com/history/mopar/electrical.html
Geri
Deceased, But not forgotton
I put an alternator off a Honda from the 90's on the hemi in my willys - very nice unit even the finish of the alum allowed it to polish easily, it was cheap from an auto wrecker at $15.00. about 4" -5"diameter and very short front to rear, they come with a serpentine pulley but that can be replaced by a GM single groove pulley. guess its back to pick-n-pull. thanks guys. I cant afford Mancini or Mazzolini , Mazz got my '63 SS Plymouth in the 90's for 5 K with the 383 I put in it in '64, when I found he had it I asked if I could buy it back, he said sure- as a roller for20 K.
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
aaand:
The Nippondenso 40/90A alternator used from 1989-1995. Identifiable by a tag which reads 'FAMILY 90HS' on OE alternators, or by the elongated ears on the rear housing for the mounting of the wiring harness. Similar versions of this alternator and its 120A sister were, and continue to be, used on all manner of Chrysler-built vehicles.
or
The Nippondenso 50/120A alternator used from 1989-1995. Identifiable by a tag which reads 'FAMILY 120HS' on OE alternators, or by the short, stubby ears on the rear housing for mounting of the wiring harness, and also by its oversized case.
https://www.allpar.com/eek/ELECTRIC.HTML<
The Nippondenso 40/90A alternator used from 1989-1995. Identifiable by a tag which reads 'FAMILY 90HS' on OE alternators, or by the elongated ears on the rear housing for the mounting of the wiring harness. Similar versions of this alternator and its 120A sister were, and continue to be, used on all manner of Chrysler-built vehicles.
or
The Nippondenso 50/120A alternator used from 1989-1995. Identifiable by a tag which reads 'FAMILY 120HS' on OE alternators, or by the short, stubby ears on the rear housing for mounting of the wiring harness, and also by its oversized case.
https://www.allpar.com/eek/ELECTRIC.HTML<
Geri
Deceased, But not forgotton
and again thanks for the information, I'll get it somehow, the Moppr unit is interfering with my elephant ear engine mounts. its looking like the little honda unit will be best--again.
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
neither me, that's why I search all the info as posible about PN to get them from regular shops OR JYs for the same overpriced pieces they offer LOL
( althought when money comes by, my option will be a 100 amps Tuff stuff alt, but my my goal is the stock look )
Geri
Deceased, But not forgotton
I did some more research the alternator I used was a 1983 Honda civic ,I just bought this one reman $39.99
Just wondering, do you happen to have a picture of that? Sounds really cool
Geri
Deceased, But not forgotton
yup, but I don't own it anymore- I am not to smart when it comes to keeping the best...
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
That's badass thanks!
383man
Well-Known Member
I would want more then 20 amps for sure. Heck at night with the heater blower on high and the headlites on you may be pulling 20 amps or more and it wont put that out at idle. I would want at least a 40 amp unit. Ron
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