Chrysler Electronic Ignition

[dan juhasz]

I’m going to due the electronic ignition conversion to a new under hood harness on the 67 Coronet RT 440cid.
I don’t like the butchered mess of the old harness so I’d like to get this right. I searched our forums and was wondering if this photo depicts the best wiring install. I’m using a 4 pin Mancini module.

So I understand the operation I will be piggybacking directly from the start relay yellow to side of the ballast that has the dark blue and brown leads?
The single blue wire on the ballast will get a piggyback with the blue yellow from module harness? Still leaving connected to ballast?
Does the ballast remain functional with this system?
Appreciate the help as always
Dan

 

[Jerry Hall]

The ballast resistor is still needed.

 

[Don Frelier]

I have a new 5 pin plug/wiring adapter for the Chrysler ECU if you're interested PM me.

 

[RemCharger]

Do not splice the yellow Into anything.
Otherwise good.

 

[dan juhasz]

The ballast resistor is still needed. View attachment 1322791

This diagram is much simpler

 

[dan juhasz]

For wire supplying 12v to module am I tapping into the single blue or blue brown combo?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The diagram posted with the yellow wire is valid just for lates 70 cars, where the ballast bypass wasn't coming anymore from ign key but from starter relay, similar to Phords.

 

[1968rt]

You will need the electronic voltage regulator and plug, dual ballast and dual field alternator to make it all electronic.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

For wire supplying 12v to module am I tapping into the single blue or blue brown combo?

View attachment 1322804

Single blue.

The brown wire side is the ballast bypass from ign key

 

[RemCharger]

The diagram posted with the yellow wire is valid just for lates 70 cars, where the ballast bypass wasn't coming anymore from ign key but from starter relay, similar to Phords.

The part I don't get is, while it's running-it will be sending power to energize the start relay.
You would need a diode?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

You will need the electronic voltage regulator and plug to make it all electronic.

View attachment 1322805

LOL, this image was edited by me maybe 15 years ago adding the leyend LOL.

The wire running brown to coil began on 70. Ealiers got this wire blue, but the ign-ballast is still brown. This change was made after the elect regulator was added and an extra blue wire run to the front of the engine to feed alt field.

 

[Nacho-RT74]

The part I don't get is, while it's running-it will be sending power to energize the start relay.
You would need a diode?

Starter relay on these is diff, adding and extra prong for it.

 

[dan juhasz]

Is there a preferred location for the module? Maybe for cooling purposes?

 

[Nacho-RT74]

Factory fit wherever room was available. 3rd gens got them on firewall cowl panel, A bodies on drivers inner fender close to firewall as far I recall

 

[diesel_lv]

The diagram above from @Jerry Hall is the correct way. The difference for electronic is no points. If you decide to go with a modern style hotter coil, then you bypass the ballast.

 

[69Bee]

Get one of these from Summit Racing...
Summit Racing SUM-851010 Summit Racing™ Mopar Electronic Control Wiring Harnesses | Summit Racing

 

[dan juhasz]

All done, thanks again

 

[Don Frelier]

Still waiting for the burnout video...

 

[dan juhasz]

All done, thanks again

Still waiting for the burnout video...

good couple months out

 

[moparwacko]

I've converted dozens over the years, and if no one has mentioned this, remember these 2 things:
1. When installing, make sure the control module is grounded. I have always taken the paint off the mounting hole on the firewall and back of module. I use a small dab of dielectric grease also. This is the #1 cause of module failure, insufficient grounding.
2. Carry a spare module and ballast resistor. A cheap NAPA module for any 70's Mopar will do.

It still is a great system, often misdiagnosed by those unfamiliar with it.
Enjoy!