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Cigarette Lighter Fuse Keeps Blowin

dodge68charger

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I Rewired My 68 Charger and My Cigarette Lighter/Dome Light Fuse Keeps Blowing.. I Have Power To The Dash Lights.. Just not The Dome and Ashtray Lights.

Also Do My Turn Signals Need a Load To Blink With Led Lights I Replaced Them With. They Just Stay Solid Green. Thanks. I Used an Led Flasher. Thanks
 
Check that cigarette lighter closely. It's usually the source and is shorting out internally. Sometimes it's an easy fix. Other times you may have to replace it.
 
Sounds like electrical issues, a -brewin'
 
Guys have said you need to use a different flasher. I'm some with more know will answer.
 
I Rewired My 68 Charger and My Cigarette Lighter/Dome Light Fuse Keeps Blowing.. I Have Power To The Dash Lights.. Just not The Dome and Ashtray Lights.

Also Do My Turn Signals Need a Load To Blink With Led Lights I Replaced Them With. They Just Stay Solid Green. Thanks. I Used an Led Flasher. Thanks

If you're using an LED flasher unit and they still aren't flashing, then you need to know that the flasher unit is polarity sensitive - try swapping the leads going into the flasher the opposite way and then check to see if the unit allows the LED blinkers to flash - that should "fix" the blinkers not working issue . . . good luck ! !

( a past company wanted to charge me $2.95 for a "polarity swapper" - when I asked why not just swap the wires in the plug he answered you could do that too - they were trying to "take" my hard earned money away for something that I could do myself - fixed it myself )
 
Check that cigarette lighter closely. It's usually the source and is shorting out internally. Sometimes it's an easy fix. Other times you may have to replace it.

Also if using the incorrect lighter you'll blow the fuse .
 
Your dash lights are on a different fuse.
Are you saying that the fuse only blows when you attempt to use the cigarette light?
 
The Dome/Cig Lighter Fuse Blows Every Time I Connect The Battery. I Put In an Afternarket Cigarette Lighter and Will Disconnect It Tmrw Night.. Just Not Sure What Else I Should Disconnect To Isolate The circuit n How I Test It...

Any Way To Tell If It Works Without putting Fuses In And Burning Them Up Every Time..

I Do Not Have The Front Headlight Harness Hooked up But The Rear tail lights Flash, only Blink On The Dash When I Rock The Switch..

No Rear Turn Signals Though when I Hit The Blinker and Rear Side Markers Are not lighting Up. Its A Brand new m&h harness

Thanks
 
I Did Install One Of These. Not Sure If It Could Be The Culprit.

image.jpeg
 
These work good for troubleshooting a short. Clip it in place of the fuse and it let's you find the problem. This one was the only one I could find in short notice. They make different ones, different amps. They also have a continuity device that you can follow along the wireing while you have it hooked up. Reads right through the frame of the car.
https://m.harborfreight.com/30-amp-...r-67724.html?utm_referrer=direct/not provided

If your cigarette lighter isn't shorted out, just unhook it, then follow the wire up to the interrior light, check the door switches and connections that they are not twisted and shorting inside of the frame, no carpet screws sticking into the interrior light wire, ect.
 
In the original harness that fuse feeds -
Cigarette lighter (red)
Clock (gray)
Dome lights, Pocket panel lights, trunk light & optional console lights (Pink 1)
Glove box light (Pink 2)
Map light (pink 3)
Those lights/devices & fuse are non-switched positive so there is 12V on one side at all times. The various light switches provide Ground when activated, not battery.

Not sure of the 68 Charger but there is a 6 pin connector usually behind the drivers kick panel. If you disconnect that connector to test, you will be eliminating the Pink 1 wire and lights.
There is a 4 pin connector for the console if you have one, not sure where it is but disconnecting that would eliminate those lights, also on Pink 1.
According to the drawing, the clock, cigarette lighter, glove box & map light are directly wired individually to the fuse panel within the dash harness. They will need to be dealt with one at a time.

http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68ChargerA.JPG
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1968/68ChargerB.JPG

As for your flasher, a mechanical flasher needs current to operate. LED's don't draw much current so as suggested above, plug your front lights in. If they still don't flash, you will need an electronic flasher.
 
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Hey Guys So I Disconnected The Rear Light Harness At The Kick Panel, The Cigarette Lighter, The Pink/Yellow Dome Light Wire At The Kick Panel And The Second I Attach The Battery The Fuse Keeps Popping..

Could Adding 12 Volts To a Negative Ground System Through The Dimmer Module I Posted Earlier Cause The Fuse To Blow. Not Sure What Else To Disconnect. Thanks
 
According to the manufacturer you have the correct dimmer delay module. If it's wired correctly (and not defective) it should be OK. You might try disconnecting its +12V lead anyway.
Question, exactly where did you splice/connect each wire of this module into your harness?
One other thing, with what you disconnected, your test did not eliminate the clock, map light or glove box light yet.
Hang in there.
 
Not Sure Where I Spliced Into. Been a Long Time.. Its So Hard To See Under The Dash..

How Would I Disconnect The Clock, Maplight, and Glove Box Light?

Thanks
 
When you said you did this a long time ago, did it work OK for a while and just start recently? Did you use an aftermarket harness or just modify the existing harness?
It's very important to determine where you spliced the dimmer module. Remember, courtesy lights operate by switches that supply ground while operational lights operate via switches that supply battery.
http://revolutionelectronics.com/13001-installation.pdf
The red lead, +12V powers the module. The Black lead is the ground for the module and to feed ground to the light after the the normally open door switch goes open, (door closes). The green lead senses the ground, triggers the timer and continues deliver ground to the dome lamp for 2 1/2 seconds after the door switch opens. The directions are a bit vague because it does not actually say whether they want you to isolate the dome light from the original harness. Or, if the module might be affected by the dimmer switch in the dash. I'm not sure on that one.
At this point I would disconnect the module.
The Clock has a single push on spade connector behind the clock on the dash cluster. The map light has a short pig tail with a dual lead plug in connector that will remove the ground. Might be easier to just remove the lamp for starters. The glove box switch usually has a pig tail with a bullet style plug in connector. All can be unplugged but you've got to get under the dash. It might be easier to drop the fuse box and see what can be done from there (???). I know what you mean about under the dash. Sometimes you just have to resort to removing the front seat.
There's a dead short on that fuse to something grounded. Since there are several paths to that fuse, what we are trying to do here is disconnect everything on that fuse and reconnect everything one at a time until the fuse goes, then go from there.
As I said before, hang in there.
 
The Car Has Never Ran Or Started Before. I Put a New M&H Factory Style Harness In There From Year One. What Scares Me Is Some Of The Spade Terminals On The Back Of The Fuse Box Where The Wires Attach Are Already Heavily Rusted..

I Disconnected Everything and Have Narrowed It Down To 2 Pink Wires That I Connected Using a Piggy Back Clip On The Back Of The Fuse Box That Was On My Stock Fuse Block. Just Got To Figure Out How To Trace Them n Where They Go.. I disconnected The Map light Wiring and It Still Blew. I Do Not Have a Glove Box Light n The Clock Works Fine...

Thanks
 
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