Cleaning inside front frame rails?

[funknut]

1968 Charger, I have the floor pan out for replacement and I want to coat the inside of the frame rails and crossmember while I'm in there. I want to do as much as I can now, so ideally I'd spray some stuff inside the full length of the frame rails, but don't have direct access to the section forward of the firewall.

The frame rails under the floor and the trans crossmember were full of dirt. I mean nearly completely packed full, so I'm guessing there's a decent amount of crap in the front sections too. Any tips on cleaning the dirt out of there?

Looks like I could poke a pressure washer in at the radiator support and flush them out and then dry with compressed air and heat.

Anyone done this or have any other suggestions?

 

[flypaper]

I think I would try blowing air to clean them out shop air or even a backpack blower
before using any water as the insides got no protection
and you are never going to completely dry it out.

I will blast and epoxy prime where I can get to and the places I can't
I like the eastwood internal frame coating
I will blow a bunch in from every direction/hole I can find
inside of the doors I wiped it down with phosphoric acid and then used the rust encapsulator on the insides
where you cant reach with blast.

 

[funknut]

Thanks that helps. There are so many nooks and crannies I can see myself using a lot of internal coating before I'm done.

I'm trying to avoid using water but I'm having a hard time getting the crud out of the seams. I don't have a blaster so I've been doing it with wire wheels on a drill and one of those electric file/belt sanders.

I'll keep at it with the compressed air, thanks.

 

[JimCoronette]

The most common rot spot is by the brake hose mounting tab. There is an internal box and a hole in the top of the frame behind the rear control arm mount.

I used a long screwdriver and piece of 14 gauge wire to loosen the packed stuff and a piece of tubing connected to a vacuum to suck it out.

It's tedious and time consuming, but it worked for me.

 

[funknut]

The most common rot spot is by the brake hose mounting tab. There is an internal box and a hole in the top of the frame behind the rear control arm mount.

I used a long screwdriver and piece of 14 gauge wire to loosen the packed stuff and a piece of tubing connected to a vacuum to suck it out.

It's tedious and time consuming, but it worked for me.

Wow, very interesting and good to know. Makes putting a hole at the bottom of the rail in that area sound like a good idea. If it's anything like the gusseted areas in my torsion bar x-member I'm sure it's packed full.

 

[493 Mike]

I think pressure washing is the way to go for the dirt. Of course it will dry as we all drove these cars in the rain with few ill effects. Then the Eastwood Internal Frame coating is the best known treatment after complete drying. Anything is better than nothing! These cars were not intended to last forever.
Mike

 

[JimCoronette]

Wow, very interesting and good to know. Makes putting a hole at the bottom of the rail in that area sound like a good idea. If it's anything like the gusseted areas in my torsion bar x-member I'm sure it's packed full.

I like my cars to look original (that's just me), but yes, drilling a hole in the bottom of the frame at the very back of the internal box would allow it to drain properly and minimize any rust in that area.

I always wonder why the designers put the hole in the middle of the internal boxing rather that at the very bottom to allow the silt to flow through. Production cost, oversight, planned obsolescence?

 

[Photon440]

Perhaps the hole was to sit on an alignment jig during manufacture, not for drainage.