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Clearancing ceramic TTI headers.

493 Mike

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FYI fellas,
After test fitting my new TTI's on my Indy Max block engine I found they hit 3 maincap cross bolts. I called TTI tech and was told I could dent them in without damaging the coating. It worked! We used various rounded shaped metal pieces with an arbor press and with a large "C" clamp, cold. I would have been concerned about power loss but, after watching the Hot Rod header bashing video, that appears to be nothing to worry about!
I did use a tough plastic between the pressing tools and the ceramic though.
Mike
 
Good info Mike.That's the best way to do it.A hammer blow can damage the coating.I was told by TTI tech's that you can bend them for clearance(Like you,using something like plastic and a pry bar to gain clearance.)Also new engine mounts and tranny mount is good to install at the same time.Saggy mounts can cause clearance issues.
 
Hi Mike,
Great info
Glad it worked out for you....
I have a couple of sets of TTIs for 2 of my Mopars
Thanks for the info
PS: What car is this on...?
 
One would think with what TTI charges, their products would work without any need for mods by the end user but these days it's just accepted by everyone. There should at least be some compensation on their part if the product doesn't fit as stated.
 
I agree...but they'll say they're designed for factory parts. The only headers I've ever had fit well...were built for my cars.
 
I agree...but they'll say they're designed for factory parts. The only headers I've ever had fit well...were built for my cars.

If they say anything of that sort, I would direct them to their own website. I see tons of aftermarket parts that these heads are supposed to fit ... but really don't. The following is for the SB step headers:

View attachment 379230 image.jpg image.jpg image.jpg
 
Hi fellas,
I did review all of TTI's fitment notes and did not find anything on cylinder block warnings. I don't have an issue with that as I'm finding many other issues with the custom build on my 65 Belvedere. The TTI tech was very helpful.
Mike
 
The TTI headers and 3" exhaust fit the hemi great in my 65 Belvedere. On a buddy's stock hemi Coronet we had to massage the TTI headers to fit for some reason. Wrapped a large socket in a rag and wacked it with the BFH until we had clearance. No damage to the coating.
 
It does work good if you don't hit them directly like the others are pointing out. Have something in between or a plastic mallet works too. I ordered mine uncoated as I figured some thumping would be happening due to the Indy block and it did. Now all I have to deal with are scratches during install after I get a chance to have them coated.
 
One would think with what TTI charges, their products would work without any need for mods by the end user but these days it's just accepted by everyone. There should at least be some compensation on their part if the product doesn't fit as stated.

I probably should have added that the installer needs to be competent and make sure that all of the engine centerline measurements are correct, the motor/trans mounts are not pancaked/worn and also take into account for chassis flex. I have had trouble with two sets over the years when all of the measurements were on the money (which led me to write the above). GL to those installing them. I have another set sitting in a box waiting to go in another car. Wish me luck.
 
The late Tom Hoover once made a joke when asked about Chrysler's tolerance level during manufacturing. "Oh about + or - 2 inches,,,or as we say, close enough."
 
There is a lot of variance in parts from the factory for sure. Thats one of the reasons they said stay away from the monday or friday production stuff. In my case, I'm putting a 70 k-frame into a 65 b-body, using a low deck aluminum Indy block that takes hemi style mounts and hooked it to the k with Schumacher mounts. I'm sure none of that would be cause for any interference issues. LOL!

IMG_1510.JPG
 
There is a lot of variance in parts from the factory for sure. Thats one of the reasons they said stay away from the monday or friday production stuff. In my case, I'm putting a 70 k-frame into a 65 b-body, using a low deck aluminum Indy block that takes hemi style mounts and hooked it to the k with Schumacher mounts. I'm sure none of that would be cause for any interference issues. LOL!

Collector pics.JPG

I have a 64 with a later year k-frame and TTI headers. Had a slight issue when I wanted to use collector extensions. The drivers side was slightly in line with the transmission mount. I guess it's common enough because others I talked to seem to already know about it. They all had the same advice so we took a long, very long pry bar inside the header collector and "coaxed" it down while bolted to the engine in place. Didn't break any welds or visually bend any tubes but I can't say I wasn't worried.
 
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The Hemi in my R/T was decked enough to have a near clearance issue with one of the tubes on the drivers side with one of the cross tie main cap bolts. Very tight.
 
The TTI headers for the 6.4/727 need tweaking on the install for the wagon. The right-side collector flange hits the trans-pan. The left side[#1 tube] has to be completely re-done to clear the Borgeson steering box...plus dimpled at the starter for another tube.
 
View attachment 384301

I have a 64 with a later year k-frame and TTI headers. Had a slight issue when I wanted to use collector extensions. The drivers side was slightly in line with the transmission mount. I guess it's common enough because others I talked to seem to already know about it. They all had the same advice so we took a long, very long pry bar inside the header collector and "coaxed" it down while bolted to the engine in place. Didn't break any welds or visually bend any tubes but I can't say I wasn't worried.
Same here! I just massaged it where it was hitting the cross member Collector wasn't that big a deal on the flow!
 
View attachment 384301

I have a 64 with a later year k-frame and TTI headers. Had a slight issue when I wanted to use collector extensions. The drivers side was slightly in line with the transmission mount. I guess it's common enough because others I talked to seem to already know about it. They all had the same advice so we took a long, very long pry bar inside the header collector and "coaxed" it down while bolted to the engine in place. Didn't break any welds or visually bend any tubes but I can't say I wasn't worried.
Just found out I have the same problem on my 64' with stock engine location.
 
The only thing that damages the costing is heat and water.

My passenger side is rusted from the AC condensate dripping down onto it. TTI tech said there's going to be rust issues between the pipes where the costing doesn't reach.

You can't repolish the coating, either.

Stainless steel or manifolds next time.
 
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